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greekgeek

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Epilogue: popping off the overflow drain mechanism wasn't too bad, and enough clearance for a thin snake. Alls well that ends well.
 

Numbernine

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Two shower drains started slowing down so I finally got the Rigid 1/4" solid core snake and started to go to work.

First fail was trying to enter the shower floor drain (ca. 1962). Appears to be cast iron and too tight a radius for the snake. I bought a flimsier drill mounted snake and got it in partway but didn't do anything.

Meanwhile while washing up at the sink, water came up the shower floor drain so that was a good sign, actually! Means the plug was downstream of the shower drain branch

Went in via the sink and snaked out a big ol' hairball, success! Of course it was not without a struggle because the Rigid snake drum became unbalanced halfway through, caused violent shaking. Had to remove the drum, pull out like 12 ft of snake, then reassemble and reload it all.

So much for the 20-30 minutes job I had originally envisioned...

So next up is the shower tub. Couldn't figure out how to pop off the overflow/cover that doubles as a drain plug switch. Then I remembered there is an access opening in the hallway closet, which should have made this easy money. Should have....

Of course some chucklehead not only decided to glue the P trap together, they also arranged it so tightly such that I can't even spin off the quick connect. In fact they sanded off the ridges on the quick connect collar to fit it.

Yay.

Guess I will try to figure out how to pop that overflow cover in YouTube and hope the snake clears that whackadoodle trap.

If not I guess it's time for a new trap.

Or I could just call a plumber, but where is the fun in that?

@Numbernine what is your professional opinion here?

View attachment 2258967 View attachment 2258969 View attachment 2258971

Two shower drains started slowing down so I finally got the Rigid 1/4" solid core snake and started to go to work.

First fail was trying to enter the shower floor drain (ca. 1962). Appears to be cast iron and too tight a radius for the snake. I bought a flimsier drill mounted snake and got it in partway but didn't do anything.

Meanwhile while washing up at the sink, water came up the shower floor drain so that was a good sign, actually! Means the plug was downstream of the shower drain branch

Went in via the sink and snaked out a big ol' hairball, success! Of course it was not without a struggle because the Rigid snake drum became unbalanced halfway through, caused violent shaking. Had to remove the drum, pull out like 12 ft of snake, then reassemble and reload it all.

So much for the 20-30 minutes job I had originally envisioned...

So next up is the shower tub. Couldn't figure out how to pop off the overflow/cover that doubles as a drain plug switch. Then I remembered there is an access opening in the hallway closet, which should have made this easy money. Should have....

Of course some chucklehead not only decided to glue the P trap together, they also arranged it so tightly such that I can't even spin off the quick connect. In fact they sanded off the ridges on the quick connect collar to fit it.

Yay.

Guess I will try to figure out how to pop that overflow cover in YouTube and hope the snake clears that whackadoodle trap.

If not I guess it's time for a new trap.

Or I could just call a plumber, but where is the fun in that?

@Numbernine what is your professional opinion here?

View attachment 2258967 View attachment 2258969 View attachment 2258971

Epilogue: popping off the overflow drain mechanism wasn't too bad, and enough clearance for a thin snake. Alls well that ends well.
Looks like you got it . My overflow is brass so just a couple screws and pull out the poppet. Backside looks like you could just cut the over flow downcomer, disconnect at that no hub coupling and pull the whole assy then just use a pvc or no hub coupling to reassemble the cut pipe.
 

greekgeek

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Looks like you got it . My overflow is brass so just a couple screws and pull out the poppet. Backside looks like you could just cut the over flow downcomer, disconnect at that no hub coupling and pull the whole assy then just use a pvc or no hub coupling to reassemble the cut pipe.
That sounds like a solid and rather painless approach to me, thanks. Going to keep that in mind for future reference.

From the tub side the trim was a snap fit that pried off with minimal persuasion, then a set screw to pop off the handle, deep socket to unscrew the retainer nut to remove the retaining bracket. (No idea if any of those are correct names...)

After all that there was only a small clearance left to snake down though, some plastic parts divided the opening. In hindsight maybe I could have pulled all that off from the backside along with the top of the downcomer.
 

Omega Male

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My overflow is brass so just a couple screws and pull out the poppet. Backside looks like you could just cut the over flow downcomer, disconnect at that no hub coupling and pull the whole assy then just use a pvc or no hub coupling to reassemble the cut pipe.
This right here is the most sex jargon sounding non sex jargon in the entire history of the StyFo sex jargon trope.

oh-come-on.gif
 

bourbonbasted

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Officially under contract on a new place, set to close by the end of the month. Can't wait to re-join the masochism that is home ownership.

Now to ply @Omega Male with enough wine that he lets me go shopping in his storage unit (sexual).
 

Numbernine

Old Enough To Fight Jake Paul
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This right here is the most sex jargon sounding non sex jargon in the entire history of the StyFo sex jargon trope.

oh-come-on.gif
Some day we'll talk pipe welding all about uphill hot passes, filler passes, downhand root penetration, filler rod, bare rod, scarfing rings, fixed position testing ..........
 

sugarbutch

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Some day we'll talk pipe welding all about uphill hot passes, filler passes, downhand root penetration, filler rod, bare rod, scarfing rings, fixed position testing ..........
No positioners?
 

Numbernine

Old Enough To Fight Jake Paul
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Numbernine

Old Enough To Fight Jake Paul
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Gibonius

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The joys of homeownership: the toilet in our rarely used third (basement) bathroom was leaking, and I've been putting off fixing it for a couple weeks. Finally got around to it, got the tank taken off and was replacing the gaskets. Then I noticed that the pipe leading from the tank to the bowl was just completely shattered. So I guess we need a new terlit. Woo.
 

Numbernine

Old Enough To Fight Jake Paul
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The joys of homeownership: the toilet in our rarely used third (basement) bathroom was leaking, and I've been putting off fixing it for a couple weeks. Finally got around to it, got the tank taken off and was replacing the gaskets. Then I noticed that the pipe leading from the tank to the bowl was just completely shattered. So I guess we need a new terlit. Woo.
Porcelain fixtures are notorious for cracking when tightening down on that type foam donut gasket, called the spud, especially urinals. I just rock the tank side to side and tighten the bolts with my fingers until it won't rock any more then snug them with a wrench a half turn. Better to just tighten a bit more if it leaks than crack the bowl.

.
 

Texasmade

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I get my water bill for this month and it's nearly $200. Normal monthly bill is just under $40 and I'm like wtf, I didn't use that much water. I go online and check my water usage and it turns out the City of Houston turned off autopay. I haven't paid my water bill in 4 months and this is my 5th bill. There's no option to turn autopay back on.
 

beargonefishing

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I get my water bill for this month and it's nearly $200. Normal monthly bill is just under $40 and I'm like wtf, I didn't use that much water. I go online and check my water usage and it turns out the City of Houston turned off autopay. I haven't paid my water bill in 4 months and this is my 5th bill. There's no option to turn autopay back on.

Pay yo bills deadbeat.
 

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