j ingevaldsson
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2011
- Messages
- 2,486
- Reaction score
- 4,161
My lazyman oxfords from Acme Shoemaker are here. They are indeed excellent, and fit turned out good despite taking the chance with remote MTM. I've done a substantial buyer's guide to the brand on the blog, much more info an loads of pictures there, but I paste the part that I believe are most interesting for folks of this thread:
"The making is honestly quite spectacular for shoes at this price. Close cut heels with very nicely levelled stacks, very tightly cut blind welted bevelled waist, 12 spi (stitches per inch) handmade sole stitch, neat notch between waist and heel edge, and so on. Where they lack a little bit is in the level of finishing, for example the transition where the welt is covered towards the blind welted waist isn’t perfectly executed, the top edge of the heels are slightly uneven, and small things like that. Now note, this is when I compare to the finest executed bespoke shoes in the world, which I know is who Acme wants to be compared to.
And that’s the thing, it’s really with those that Acme Shoemaker should be compared. Considering the price that they are offered with, it’s very impressive. In terms of RTW, Acme is definitely a contender to being the best in the world, and this at the price of €1,100, which is lower than all its competitors. Yohei Fukuda’s RTW is obviously very well-made, but they have machine stitched outsoles and made in a bit more “factory-esque” way. Saint Crispin’s also have machine stitched outsoles, and they are much simpler made in many regards with welt finishing, pegged waists etc. The British premium brands – Gaziano & Girling, Edward Green and John Lobb Paris and Foster & Son’s top ranges – are how well-made they ever will be still factory-made shoes, with thinner insoles, machine-made welt and sole stitches, celastic toe stiffeners etc. and all that comes with that. Only one to fully rival, on specs at least, is the Italian brand Stefano Bemer's Tradizione Collection, which cost 2/3 as much though.
When you look at MTO shoes, there’s more options available that offer something similar to Acme, although also here the fully handmade shoes with the same advanced construction isn’t that common. Main alternatives are bespoke shoemakers that also can do MTO to the same standard as their bespoke, like the fellow Chinese maker Yim Shoemaker, Japanese bespoke shoemakers like Hiro Yanagimachi, Kiyo, Seiji McCarthy etc., or Italian Antonio Meccariello with his Aurum offering. In terms of pricing it’s only Yim that’s on the same low level though.
Also for bespoke the price level is good, though not as unique. There’s of course cheaper bespoke out there, like Jan Kielman, Maftei and so on but in general they are simpler made shoes."
Last edited:
Yes, he is indeed, have heard from several others who've had the same experience as well.
