The Definitive MANBAG Thread, Part II: 2014~

[Prudy]

Not the best pic, but here's my Gucci Black Diamante Duffle. It's a fantastic bag. Looks great, built very well and tough as nails. Makes a great travel carry on or a weekender.

I use it for lots of day-to-day things as well.

 

[rach2jlc]

^I dish out the negatives re: Gucci all the time, but I must admit a soft spot for the Diamante bags and know that when Gucci wants, they can definitely make a nice bag. I had this soft briefcase from 2010 in that pattern in fabric and it was a lot of fun (though ultimately I didn't like how the tough leather/soft fabric moved/wore together and so got rid of it). Enjoy your bag and hope you have lots of good travel with it.

 

[Prudy]

@rach2jlc agreed, so much of the Gucci/LV, etc. plays into the cynical branding trope, and they can turn out some major turds. However, Gucci does know how to fashion some great bags when they want to, and the diamante series are some of those bags. A great blending of practicality and elegance, IMO. I actually like the series because most folks don't know diamante, and don't have any idea who the bag was made by.

They also made some nice bags that were featured in their RTW for AW14 this year, but they are huge. Still, nice bags.

 

[Babar]



I'm sorry, but I'm going to have to call BS on this.

I have yet to see an SLP menswear item that seemed exceptional in any way. Hedi is a great stylist, and has naturally good taste; more akin to Tom Ford or Lagerfeld than a paradigm-shifting talent like YSL. The image he's crafted for the brand is perfectly fine: the branded packaging/collateral is lovely and the boutiques are nice (if incredibly sterile). And I will unreservedly say that, in the last decade, he's done some of the best-looking shoes in fashion.

But the clothes? Hedi wants aspires to a look, an image, a lifestyle; quality, functionality, and durability are not his design priorities. This is somewhat different from the Dior days: DH had a totally realized look that, while not especially practical, was beautifully-executed. DH was, essentially, good design; SL, more often than not, isn't. The materials and construction are merely passable, little different from contemporary designers that cost 1/3 as much. Hedi's YSL is the Zara of designer labels: clothes that look nice, perfectly satisfy a trend, and impress others this season, but will never be a cherished, long-term part of your wardrobe.

I have a lot of Hedi era DH (2003 and onwards) and I can assure you SLP is no inferior.

 

[Gus]



here's my Gucci Black Diamante Duffle.  It's a fantastic bag.  Looks great, built very well and tough as nails.  Makes a great travel carry on or a weekender.

That is a very nice bag. Hard to beat that size and shape.

I have a soft spot for the classic monogram canvas LV Carryall. Yea, the whole LV thing has gone kinda crazy in the last 10 years but there is something about the way the natural leather ages over time that appeals to me.

 

[Gus]

While in London I stopped by the Bill Amberg store:

Here are a few cool bags and backpacks:

 

[rach2jlc]



I have a lot of Hedi era DH (2003 and onwards) and I can assure you SLP is no inferior.

It's an interesting and fairly complex issue to discuss. I can see both of your points and think that perhaps you both are correct, but are viewing the brand from different angles. Comparing the exemplary pieces from each collection, probably babar is correct. Some of the really key SLP pieces are, no doubt, pretty good. On the other hand, taking the "brand" as a whole and its full range of products... I tend to side with DesignerValet. I was really, really unimpressed with what I saw at the boutique... and especially in the accessories and details overall.

I think that, pound for pound, SLP is not up to the early Hedi Dior collections... at least through Luster. I also think that the interest, romance, and WOW factor has been lost in the current SLP. Even if it were absolutely superlative, I don't see what is there really to excite me as somebody not "new" to fashion. I know that trying for "new" stuff isn't Hedi's intention... but even still there isn't even an attempt to keep the jazz/juice alive. I'm BORED by what I saw...

PSguy... Amberg has traditionally been a pretty nice, good "go to" maker with fair prices. That being said, he tends (IMHO) to be hit and miss. Some of the stuff is really great bang-for-buck... and some of it is really quite odd and poorly constructed. It was hard often for me to figure out what was what in his collections. As for the LV keepall... I also have (or have had) a soft spot for them. I wouldn't get a new one, were I ever to try again... but one perhaps 10-12 years old. I kick myself for getting rid of my graffiti keepall several years ago.

 

[baggist]

Quote: Ohhh pretty. Is that really red in person or more a red brown?

 

[Gus]



Ohhh pretty. Is that really red in person or more a red brown?

A bit more red/brown. The light may have shifted it to read a bit more red by my camera. The leathers Bill Amberg uses are easily recognized as being especially deluxe, rich and so nice to touch.

 

[ribellarsi]

On and off again lurker here but finally decided to post after pulling the trigger on this recent Bottega Venetta bag purchase:







I bought it for my new posting to Japan...but now after my arrival and checking out the various shops here, I can see that there are a lot of options available from the used recycle shops to fantastic Japanese brands such as Masterpiece and others for more ways to capitalize on the yen's current weakness!

This thread has been a real insight and thanks to rach2jlc for his numerous postings and insight. It is very much appreciated.

 

[Prudy]

^^Congrats, great looking bag. I bought my wife one of their black handbags last year, she loves it.

I'm curious about whether or not you feel that bag will hold up as a travel bag?

 

[ribellarsi]

Thanks Prudy. BV just makes beautiful things and I'm sure they will get more of my money.

As a travel bag, I think this bag will hold up well. The shape of the bag doesn't always keep it upright when I place it down, it's the weave (one of four) that causes it to fold over. This is not a problem nor does it detract from the bag's character. If anything, I think the bag will age nicely.

I must admit I'm a little shocked by the numerous compliments I have received on it while out and about.

After having an LV Tadao tote and selling it off after a few uses, I vowed to get something more subtle but screaming in details and quality. Thanks to the enablers here, and my local BV sales lady, this one ticked most of my boxes.

 

[cyc wid it]

April in Paris sale... I feel so poor. :foo:

 

[rach2jlc]



Thanks Purdy. BV just makes beautiful things and I'm sure they will get more of my money.

As a travel bag, I think this bag will hold up well. The shape of the bag doesn't always keep it upright when I place it down, it's the weave (one of four) that causes it to fold over. This is not a problem nor does it detract from the bag's character. If anything, I think the bag will age nicely.

I must admit I'm a little shocked by the numerous compliments I have received on it while out and about.

After having an LV Tadao tote and selling it off after a few uses, I vowed to get something more subtle but screaming in details and quality. Thanks to the enablers here, and my local BV sales lady, this one ticked most of my boxes.

BV is always a good bet. The quality is good, the styling is timeless, and in Japan right now it's one of the big "IT" brands that will fetch a decent price at the Recycle shops should you decide to part with it. LV, Prada, etc. have sort of run their course and look a little 'old hat.' Tomas Maier has done a great job of keeping the brand interesting and relevant without jumping the shark. He consistently produces nice collections that show an obvious DNA to the brand, without being too garish or gimmicky (or smattered with logos... though one might argue that the intrecciato can sometimes be overdone on some of the more basic bags). Another nice thing is that it's one of the few brands that you can use as a casual day bag AND for work; typically a day bag is too casual to use in an office/office bag is too formal to use out on a weekend.

My only complaint is the one you already found; namely, the bag tends to slouch when you set it down (which can be annoying if the bag isn't full). They age pretty well, though, and are easy to maintain with some decent leather moisturizers/waterproofers (I recommend Collonil... get their basic leather cream and the spray protector).

ps, if you don't mind a personal question... what takes you to Nippon?

April in Paris sale... I feel so poor. :foo:

Yes, I still have two bags on the "Dream" radar... and a spouse who wants a new kitchen. The latter will trump the former, if only because I don't feel like living out of my university office until summertime.

 

[Stiva]

Rach et al

I have just now read this thread from 2009 through, and it is both informative and entertaining. Many thanks to Rach for driving it.

I am looking for a travel bag - not a messenger or tote - along the following lines. I want something that will accommodate my needs for anywhere between 3 days and 2 weeks - on the latter occasions together with a smaller bag to carry any extra stuff if necessary. And I want the main bag to be carry on size.

I have previously experimented with a combination of suit carrier and small duffle, but it's not quite right. Suit carriers are overrated in terms of preventing wrinkling, and they can be awkward in shape. And some airlines can be difficult if the carrier isn't made of a totally flexible material. Duffles can be hard to pack if you want to lay stuff flat. After analysing my needs, I have come to the conclusion that a Pullman-style case plus a small shoulder bag would work best. I travel in mostly tropical/temperate areas or during the Northern summer. I usually only take one suit coat or jacket, which I wear onto the plane and have hung. I pack as lightly as possible. So in the main bag I would take up to four pants and up to six shirts. A bag 20 inches wide would be a good fit, because my pants folded are 18 inches across the waist and the shirts are about 20 inches across the shoulders. That way I could get a good amount into each side of a Pullman-style bag. I particularly like the fact that I could unzip it all the way and lay it flat for packing. A lot of bags only unzip half way down the sides. I could also probably fit an extra jacket or coat if necessary. Toiletries, spare pare of shoes, iPad, chargers, etc can go in the small shoulder bag for a longer trip.

The 20 inch size would also work well for carry on limits - 45 inch or 115 cms linear measurement. Something like 20 x 15 x 9 - which seems fairly typical.

There seems to be little on the market that fits these parameters. I like the Filson Pullman for functionality, but it is more casual and I would prefer full leather.

JW Hulme does a leather Pullman which is more formal, but it has internal webbing which probably reduces ease of packing. And I know nothing of their quality.

I have also seen the Dunhill Bladon 48 hour. It has a large and fairly deep compartment on one side for clothes and a narrower one on the other side for tablets, etc. It would probably also work.

I have a couple of questions that I hope you guys might be able to help me with. Can you think of any other bags that might meet these specifications? And I know that there have been some reservations expressed about Dunhill luggage, but reading through the threads I can't see exactly why. I know the Bladon stuff (which I think is no longer made) was manufactured in China, and I presume that is the issue. Is there some other reason?

And to those suppliers who have asked what people are looking for in a bag, this is my wish list.

I thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.

Regards
Michael