The Definitive MANBAG Thread, Part II: 2014~

[twelvedozn]

Barneys Warehouse now has a number of Serapian bags at deep discounts.

Here's an example --

http://www.barneyswarehouse.com/serapian-two-compartment-briefcase-00505035282198.html

They're absolutely not what I'd purchase at full prize -- or what I'd purchase if I weren't subject to a budget -- but they look pretty nice for under $500.

Does anyone have any experience with the brand? I'm hoping to go into a store to look at the leather on some other models, but it's very hard for me to make heads or tails of the quality of construction, leather, etc. online.

Saffiano does not get me very excited.

Along similar lines, if I'm trying to find a brief and have a $500 budget, where do folks suggest I look?

 

[Mr. Moo]

Check out Linjer.

 

[rach2jlc]



Lol! I thought people started calling SLP since 2012. Anyway, I got my backpack for $500, it's no big deal for lugging around things to class. Why is the brand so bad tho? It got the hype for rtw and shoes around here. Sorry for my mainstream brand bags, I just can't shell out money on Margiela bags, it just doesn't "LOOK" well designed to me and plus for some reason I tend to buy more popular brands for accessories, not at all the case for clothing.

All true; I think I saw that backpack, though, this past week and thought even at $600-700 it was way overpriced. For me, the problem with Saint Laurent Paris is unoriginal styling, lackluster quality, failure to remember the history/DNA of the brand, and wonky pricing. And as one who had pieces from Hedi's original collections back in 2000... and then at Dior... I think I'm allowed to complain. This **** he's doing now is tired, worn out, "been there," and for the very customers from which he was trying to run away back in his glory days. Hedi's first YSL collections were unlike anything that had every been done. What he's doing now is.... hell if I know. But, I mean, the man's gotta eat... so if he can get people excited again... good for him.

In the future, I think that we'll look back at the Pilati days as the best YSL ever did (for RTW, that is). I don't think he ever got the credit he deserved, but he balanced all the right elements to make well made, YSL-esque, proportionally priced, fun collections that normal fashion fans could actually wear. For full disclosure, of course until 2000 YSL had never HAD a real men's line, but what Pilati did seemed me to invest the clothes in what a YSL mensline WOULD HAVE been like in the Yves days.

As I've said elsewhere, I think the days of the "big houses" are mostly gone... and true fashion fans are finding smaller niche brands... sort of like the Japanese have been doing for decades. None of my friends who are big fashion fans, who grew up on the big brands in their great 1990's days... are still looking at any name that gets much into print. I'm excited to see where the landscape ends up in the next 5-10 years. Gucci, Prada, etc. need to be careful; they ought to look toward the example of Versace and Ferre to see what can happen to brands that once were ubiquitous/huge but lacked the creative/fun talent to perpetuate.

Barneys Warehouse now has a number of Serapian bags at deep discounts.  

Here's an example --

http://www.barneyswarehouse.com/serapian-two-compartment-briefcase-00505035282198.html

They're absolutely not what I'd purchase at full prize -- or what I'd purchase if I weren't subject to a budget -- but they look pretty nice for under $500.

Does anyone have any experience with the brand?  I'm hoping to go into a store to look at the leather on some other models, but it's very hard for me to make heads or tails of the quality of construction, leather, etc. online. 

Saffiano does not get me very excited.

Along similar lines, if I'm trying to find a brief and have a $500 budget, where do folks suggest I look?

I like Serapian; do an SF search as I did a review. They are pretty stodgy/older in styling, though, so I agree there are better options (see Mr. Moo's suggestion below... for which I completely agree).

Check out Linjer.

+1. Though Serapian is twice the price (or more), I'd probably go for Linjer. I like L's simplicity, its durability, and the sturdiness of the leather. Serapian is nice... and linjer is quite different stylistically... but the Serapian have a more "delicate" feel... definitely more suit/tropical wool slacks rather than jeans or a warm blazer. Not to mention (as is Barney's wont) that because they have exclusive distribution in the USA, they jack up the prices however they want. In Europe Serapian is a relative bargain... not so in the Barney's universe.

 

[kidkorea]

IISE Duffels

 

[randomkoreandude]



I like Serapian; do an SF search as I did a review. They are pretty stodgy/older in styling, though, so I agree there are better options (see Mr. Moo's suggestion below... for which I completely agree).
+1. Though Serapian is twice the price (or more), I'd probably go for Linjer. I like L's simplicity, its durability, and the sturdiness of the leather. Serapian is nice... and linjer is quite different stylistically... but the Serapian have a more "delicate" feel... definitely more suit/tropical wool slacks rather than jeans or a warm blazer. Not to mention (as is Barney's wont) that because they have exclusive distribution in the USA, they jack up the prices however they want. In Europe Serapian is a relative bargain... not so in the Barney's universe.

didnt realize they were exclusive to barneys

warehouse has a decent selection of presumably last year's serapian models for cheap prices

might have to pick up a folio as a gift ... anyone have experience with the portfolios?

 

[chenm0416]

What is the consensus on sling backpacks (if that's what they're called) like the one below? I'm looking for something small just to carry around a second phone/sunglasses/etc.

 

[ThinkDerm]

anyone else have thoughts on serapian?

 

[Babar]



All true; I think I saw that backpack, though, this past week and thought even at $600-700 it was way overpriced. For me, the problem with Saint Laurent Paris is unoriginal styling, lackluster quality, failure to remember the history/DNA of the brand, and wonky pricing. And as one who had pieces from Hedi's original collections back in 2000... and then at Dior... I think I'm allowed to complain. This **** he's doing now is tired, worn out, "been there," and for the very customers from which he was trying to run away back in his glory days. Hedi's first YSL collections were unlike anything that had every been done. What he's doing now is.... hell if I know. But, I mean, the man's gotta eat... so if he can get people excited again... good for him.

In the future, I think that we'll look back at the Pilati days as the best YSL ever did (for RTW, that is). I don't think he ever got the credit he deserved, but he balanced all the right elements to make well made, YSL-esque, proportionally priced, fun collections that normal fashion fans could actually wear. For full disclosure, of course until 2000 YSL had never HAD a real men's line, but what Pilati did seemed me to invest the clothes in what a YSL mensline WOULD HAVE been like in the Yves days.

I wouldn't say that slp is low quality. The choice of fabrics, and where they're sourced (some impeccable silks, cashmere from Scotland, denim from Japan etc) is quite different from what other brands do these days. They've released some remarkable footwear for a fashion brand, and the overall attention to details etc suggest that Hedi still has strict control of the line like in the old days at DH imho.

I don't have much experience with their bags, though, but at least the pricing doesn't seem outrageous compared to other brands.

 

[cyc wid it]

Almost every item from DH is nicer than it's "equivalent" at SLP. It's often times more expensive, but yeah.

 

[rach2jlc]



I wouldn't say that slp is low quality. The choice of fabrics, and where they're sourced (some impeccable silks, cashmere from Scotland, denim from Japan etc) is quite different from what other brands do these days. They've released some remarkable footwear for a fashion brand, and the overall attention to details etc suggest that Hedi still has strict control of the line like in the old days at DH imho.

I don't have much experience with their bags, though, but at least the pricing doesn't seem outrageous compared to other brands.

All fair points. Sometimes my curmudgeonliness gets the most of me. I guess overall I'm just unimpressed to see the development and stylistic growth (or lack thereof) in the brand since it really started its menswear line in 2000.

 

[Babar]



All fair points. Sometimes my curmudgeonliness gets the most of me. I guess overall I'm just unimpressed to see the development and stylistic growth (or lack thereof) in the brand since it really started its menswear line in 2000.

I see what you're saying, and the stylistic direction is a matter of taste, of course, but I think it's safe to say Hedi has full control of the line since he has basically rebooted YSL completely, even on the distribution side since he personally redesigned all the stores across the world. Like his first YSL collections in '00 a lot of the clothes are cut in an uncompromising way, rather than to fly of the shelves.. One really needs the perfect body shape to look good in most of the leather jackets, cropped sweaters etc, just like in the old days..

SLP doesn't do a separate diffusion line so there's bound to be some dilution of the mainline, but even the "cheap admission tickets" like the cheaper accessories, tees, jeans, sneakers etc are more interesting and worth spending money on than the gaudy stuff other fashion houses tend to do, and certainly compared to YSL under Pilati.

 

[sepp]

Found this:


Milan (Reuters) - Italian fashion house Gucci said on Monday it would strengthen controls on its suppliers after a television programme showed Chinese employees working more than three times their official hours to assemble its handbags.

The head of a Gucci subcontractor told an investigative programme broadcast by RAI state television on Sunday that Gucci was aware it irregularly employed Chinese workers.

Aroldo Guidotti of subcontractor Mondo Libero (Free World) said the employees toiled away for as long as 14 hours a day, while they were supposed to work only for four hours, to assemble handbags that he sold to Gucci for 24 euros (S$38.80).

The bags sell in shops for around US$1,000 (S$1,250).

 

[JP Marcellino]

That is an interesting Reuters article you found. not that Chinese factory workers build for Gucci or that they get $38 per bag that's old news

What I find interesting is that they are only suppose to work 4 hours? since when, is this now a law or part of trade agreements? it can't be a union thing in China right? Anyone have any insights?

 

[gaseousclay]

can anyone point me to a company that makes relatively inexpensive canvas shoulder bags? I'm thinking of something smaller than a messenger bag. I had one laying around but I can't seem to find it. I was going to experiment on it with some otter wax

 

[sepp]

I supposed these Chinese workers are employed in Italy and subject to EU labor laws?