The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[DWFII]

Thanks DW, I understand how you can avoid "squeaking" by using that neoprene cement on leather. However I do not see the advantages of using those two components as a filler. If the shoemaker decides to use the cork, this is going to be pressed down by the mid/outsole leather anyway. It sounds to me like to glue a leather insole insert on top of the original one.

I don't understand it, either. But then I don't understand the logic of pegging in lieu of stitching when there's a welt; or using a sewing awl for "outseaming," etc..

 

[Ric Borella]

 

[Ric Borella]

Wholecut oxford, in violet suede with green brogue!

 

[Texasmade]

Very unique!

 

[mw313]

Thanks mw313 for you answer. In general, I think the use of more components than needed is not good for the shoe and it adds more weight to it. Vass does not use leather filler in the forepart, just cork layer. He uses as well the pegged rand and a pegged layer of leather to cover the shank (metal in this case). Maybe your shoemaker uses JR veg leather too, wich are very stiff at the beginning. In any case I really like your shoes and hope fit is good. Thanks again.

Yes the fit is great and I've still had no problem with squeaking. He didn't say why he uses both but I don't notice any difference in weight. They actually feel lighter than my Vass, st c, GG, etc.

 

[mw313]

And he's in Serbia?

Yes

Belgrade, Serbia

 

[mw313]

I don't understand it, either. But then I don't understand the logic of pegging in lieu of stitching when there's a welt; or using a sewing awl for "outseaming," etc..

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Im not sure either. My only thought was to make it more sleek at the waist, but he didn't say why he chose to do it this way with the pegging instead when he welted the shoe anyway.

But the construct is solid yet still light and the level of detail and finishing is right with other top bespoke makers in the U.K.

 

[jerrybrowne]

Just got these Templemans. Unlined shaft natural crup. So far the most comfortable boots I've ever owned.

 

[Concordia]

Damn. Are you sure he worked at Lobb? That's an elegant last.

What other makers have you tried boots with?

 

[jerrybrowne]

Yeah, Nicholas did a great job. I've had boots made by Cleverley on 2 different lasts. This pair is my favorite.

 

[edmorel]

very nice boots and interesting that the unlined shaft is not uncomfortable

 

[Ric Borella]

Just got these Templemans. Unlined shaft natural crup. So far the most comfortable boots I've ever owned.

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Very nice!

 

[Concordia]

Have you tried Templeman vs. Cleverley on shoes? I.e., is this a last thing, or a boot-maker's thing?

 

[PCK1]

Yes

Belgrade, Serbia

Where in Belgrade? I was just there last week for work.

Speaking of which, if you do go to Belgrade...I highly recommend the Square Nine Hotel...Executive or Presidential suites are amazing value (relative to the rest of Europe or NYC).

 

[Concordia]

Are those also fitted out with *************s?