The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[mw313]

Next step was to prepare the suede and calf components to be sewn together. They were lined up and then used a sewing machine on a very fine setting. Sewing was done to attach the lining to the upper parts as well.

He also made the brogue/punching details for the upper along with the medallion by hand.

 

[mw313]

The next step was when he was preparing the insole by cutting it to the size of the bottom of the last. It was shaved down to size and then attached to the bottom of the last. The hold fast was prepared entirely out of leather (no gemming was used).

The toe puff and heel counter were made out of leather at this same stage in preparation. They were cut to size and shaved on the edges to get a smoother transition. Rough or sharp edges would be felt while wearing the shoe, so they are bevelled to make that gradual transition, while still being thick enough to add the strength and support that are needed in these areas of the shoe.

 

[mw313]

Now that the upper and insoles were both prepared, the toe puff and heel counter could be attached between the lining and upper.

The upper was nailed to the insole and welt was then sewn to the upper/insole complex.

Attachment of more leather to the heel area was prepared so the shank could then be added from the heel to the mid-foot area. The shank was attached by wooden pegs.

Finally the cork foot bed was cut and attached to the forefoot area.

 

[mw313]

Now that the majority of the shoe was prepared, the outsole needed to be attached. An extra thin piece of leather was attached to the forefoot to cover the area where the cork was placed, so it would not be damaged at all.

A channel was made into the outsole to thin it out. This allows for the thin covering to go over the stitching to completely conceal the attachment of the outsole to insole. The outsole was then completely stitched to the rest of the shoe at the welt.

 

[mw313]

Now that the general shoe was finished, the finishing details come into play.

The heel has to be made which is by stacking multiple layers of leather on top of each other. They are glued together per layer but then also nailed together into the shoe itself.

The edge of the welt was finished by using a fudge wheel to give clean lines onto the entire top of the visible welt.

The waist was made super close by having extra welt cut off and then the outsole was shaved down to bevel and give an elegant fiddleback to the waist.

Since this shoe had a pegged waist it helped to give the tighter waist but it was rubbed down with hot iron to smooth the wooden edges and painted over to conceal them as much as possible.

 

[mw313]

Finally the heel was attached and polished as well as the final polish application to the entire shoe. Then laces were inserted and the shoe trees were placed.

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I hope you all have enjoyed the process as well as the final shots of these shoes. If anyone is interested in Igor Suhenko, I would highly recommend him.

Many of you know that I have bespoke shoes from many shoe makers from the US and Europe, as well as top MTO/MTM shoes from around the world, and Igor's work is up with the best of them. To make things even better he costs much less than Bespoke shoes from the UK and even Italy.

I'd be more than happy to answer questions on anything as well.

 

[Concordia]

Finally the heel was attached and polished as well as the final polish application to the entire shoe. Then laces were inserted and the shoe trees were placed.

View attachment 804278 View attachment 804279 View attachment 804280 View attachment 804281 View attachment 804282 View attachment 804285 View attachment 804286 View attachment 804287 View attachment 804288


I hope you all have enjoyed the process as well as the final shots of these shoes. If anyone is interested in Igor Suhenko, I would highly recommend him.

Many of you know that I have bespoke shoes from many shoe makers from the US and Europe, as well as top MTO/MTM shoes from around the world, and Igor's work is up with the best of them. To make things even better he costs much less than Bespoke shoes from the UK and even Italy.

I'd be more than happy to answer questions on anything as well.

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Most interesting! Thanks.

 

[ThinkDerm]

mw313 - amazing post. pricing?

 

[Zapasman]

Thanks for the great article mw313!!. Those are beautiful shoes. Why the shoemaker uses both; cork filler+thin layer of leather as a filler?. It is the first time I see both components and I thought that the leather layer could contribute for "squeaking". Does he uses metal shank inside the leather cover as Vass does?. Hope fit is great, wear them in good health.

 

[buy a painting]

Finally the heel was attached and polished as well as the final polish application to the entire shoe. Then laces were inserted and the shoe trees were placed.

View attachment 804278 View attachment 804279 View attachment 804280 View attachment 804281 View attachment 804282 View attachment 804285 View attachment 804286 View attachment 804287 View attachment 804288


I hope you all have enjoyed the process as well as the final shots of these shoes. If anyone is interested in Igor Suhenko, I would highly recommend him.

Many of you know that I have bespoke shoes from many shoe makers from the US and Europe, as well as top MTO/MTM shoes from around the world, and Igor's work is up with the best of them. To make things even better he costs much less than Bespoke shoes from the UK and even Italy.

I'd be more than happy to answer questions on anything as well.

View attachment 804277

View attachment 804283

View attachment 804284

Lovely journal. Can he source nicer leathers? Are you able to share his pricing?

 

[mw313]

mw313 - amazing post. pricing?

Thanks for the great article mw313!!. Those are beautiful shoes. Why the shoemaker uses both; cork filler+thin layer of leather as a filler?. It is the first time I see both components and I thought that the leather layer could contribute for "squeaking". Does he uses metal shank inside the leather cover as Vass does?. Hope fit is great, wear them in good health.

Lovely journal. Can he source nicer leathers? Are you able to share his pricing?

You would think that leather and cork combo could but there is no squeak at all. This wasn't my first time seeing this as well. The comfort is amazing with that combo it actually feels rigidly strong yet soft when walking. Feels substantial like my Vass and more comfortable than St C as well.

As far as shank he showed me a leather shank he made which was more than enough.

Yes he can source great leathers. I didn't ask about all of them but I'd expect things like Annoney etc.

I can't share exact pricing but figure for most pairs with just normal leather it should be under 2000 euro for full bespoke. If you mention that you know me from styleforum I'm sure he will work with you because I already told him that I have a source (you guys) that may be interested in giving him a try for a good price. Lol.

And as a side note the last actually is a bespoke last that was made for me from a last making factory based off of a corthay last shape, but he had it finished in plastic so it can be used more since I plan on getting a few pairs.

I hope that info helps you all!

Matt

 

[Concordia]

And he's in Serbia?

 

[DWFII]

Thanks for the great article mw313!!. Those are beautiful shoes. Why the shoemaker uses both; cork filler+thin layer of leather as a filler?. It is the first time I see both components and I thought that the leather layer could contribute for "squeaking".

If an All-Purpose neoprene based cement is used there is no problem with using leather as a filler. But All-Purpose is a "high-tech," solvent based petro-chemical adhesive that is also occlusive...

 

[Zapasman]

Thanks DW, I understand how you can avoid "squeaking" by using that neoprene cement on leather. However I do not see the advantages of using those two components as a filler. If the shoemaker decides to use the cork, this is going to be pressed down by the mid/outsole leather anyway. It sounds to me like to glue a leather insole insert on top of the original one.

 

[Zapasman]

You would think that leather and cork combo could but there is no squeak at all. This wasn't my first time seeing this as well. The comfort is amazing with that combo it actually feels rigidly strong yet soft when walking. Feels substantial like my Vass and more comfortable than St C as well.

As far as shank he showed me a leather shank he made which was more than enough.

Matt

Thanks mw313 for you answer. In general, I think the use of more components than needed is not good for the shoe and it adds more weight to it. Vass does not use leather filler in the forepart, just cork layer. He uses as well the pegged rand and a pegged layer of leather to cover the shank (metal in this case). Maybe your shoemaker uses JR veg leather too, wich are very stiff at the beginning. In any case I really like your shoes and hope fit is good. Thanks again.