The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[epsilon22]

If you have commissioned the shoes (or are about to) leave that decision to after the fitting. Presuming it is fully bespoke, there will be a personal last made to your specifications and measurements. Seeing your feet, the shoe/last maker will decide on, what he feels, is the right shape for your feet, which might well be different from the sample shoe.

If you decide during the fitting that you want the toe somehow different, altering that is no problem whatsoever.

It was MTM with Hiro in my case, so I left it to his judgment, and I'm happy I did.

I did bespoke with Nicholas, and after seeing the fitting shoes he actually thought less rounded toes might be good for me (probably influenced by the pair of loafers I wore, which I told him I quite like the shape of). Still waiting for the finished shoes but I'm trusting his sense. That's why I chose these makers in the first place.

 

[taxgenius]

It was MTM with Hiro in my case, so I left it to his judgment, and I'm happy I did.

I did bespoke with Nicholas, and after seeing the fitting shoes he actually thought less rounded toes might be good for me (probably influenced by the pair of loafers I wore, which I told him I quite like the shape of). Still waiting for the finished shoes but I'm trusting his sense. That's why I chose these makers in the first place.

How much of a last adjustment is willing/able to due with MTM?

 

[epsilon22]

How much of a last adjustment is willing/able to due with MTM?

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer that. My adjustments are quite simple, my ankles are quite narrow, so he put me in a pair of smaller sized shoes, and built up volume on certain parts (a total of 6 adjustments, 3 on each side, based on the receipt, you do pay for each adjustment on the last).

Drop him an email and he'd be able to take a look and advise whether you need bespoke or MTM would suffice. I came in not knowing if I'd need bespoke either, but after taking measurements, pictures, and letting me try on several sample pairs (I think he spent over an hour doing these), he concluded that my feet are close enough to his standard Asian lasts that I don't need bespoke.

 

[DorianGreen]

A single monk strap by Emiko Matsuda.

 

[DorianGreen]

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer that. My adjustments are quite simple, my ankles are quite narrow, so he put me in a pair of smaller sized shoes, and built up volume on certain parts (a total of 6 adjustments, 3 on each side, based on the receipt, you do pay for each adjustment on the last).

Drop him an email and he'd be able to take a look and advise whether you need bespoke or MTM would suffice. I came in not knowing if I'd need bespoke either, but after taking measurements, pictures, and letting me try on several sample pairs (I think he spent over an hour doing these), he concluded that my feet are close enough to his standard Asian lasts that I don't need bespoke.

Interesting, similar to my experience at Perticone Bespoke: I tried a couple of trying pairs and they fit surprisingly well, so Mr Yoshimoto agreed with me on a slightly adjusted last for my loafers.

 

[taxgenius]

I am considering Seiji McCarthy if/when he comes to NYC. He was planning on coming in October but that had to be rescheduled. I will probably let him decide whether I need bespoke or just a modified last.

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[epsilon22]

I am considering Seiji McCarthy if/when he comes to NYC. He was planning on coming in October but that had to be rescheduled. I will probably let him decide whether I need bespoke or just a modified last.

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Seiji makes beautiful shoes too. My taste seems to generally lean closer towards the English side (I like Templeman, Yanagimachi, Marquess, Fukuda), but I've found some stuffs that I like from other makers too.

I had an MTO pair of oxfords made by Spigola. They're currently back with him for some adjustments, since the front part is a bit too tight. I can certainly see myself ordering some loafers or derbys from Seiji McCarthy in the future.

I think that would be the best option, let the makers decide if they can fit you into their modified MTM lasts. If they're not sure, I'm sure they'd be upfront and let you know you need bespoke.

 

[taxgenius]

Seiji makes beautiful shoes too. My taste seems to generally lean closer towards the English side (I like Templeman, Yanagimachi, Marquess, Fukuda), but I've found some stuffs that I like from other makers too.

I had an MTO pair of oxfords made by Spigola. They're currently back with him for some adjustments, since the front part is a bit too tight. I can certainly see myself ordering some loafers or derbys from Seiji McCarthy in the future.

I think that would be the best option, let the makers decide if they can fit you into their modified MTM lasts. If they're not sure, I'm sure they'd be upfront and let you know you need bespoke.

I was actually considering most of the makers you mentioned but thought (perhaps incorrectly) that Seiji would be the most cost effective to produce something similar to this.

 

[epsilon22]

I was actually considering most of the makers you mentioned but thought (perhaps incorrectly) that Seiji would be the most cost effective to produce something similar to this.

View attachment 2220107

I'm not too familiar with his pricing so I can't comment on that. In terms of style, his split-toe derbys are a bit more rounded than Hiro's "default" shape, I think. It'll look good with more casual textured leather like in the pic above.

I went with dark brown smooth calf (I think Annonay) with my pair. I think the slightly pointier toes go well with the leather since they're both a bit dressier.

Pricing wise, they were a touch over JPY 400K, but I visited him at his workshop in Tokyo. At a trunk show in the US the prices are a bit higher. He also has additional charges for options like beveled waists, half rubber topy, metal toe taps, and the last/pattern adjustments (last adjustment costs only apply on the first order where you made the adjustments, but pattern adjustments will be charged on subsequent pairs on the same lasts).

 

[DorianGreen]

Just awesome (that heart-shaped facing!), a short wing adelaide by Seiji McCarthy.

 

[clee1982]

Never seen Seiji does stuff outside Ivy/American type, this looks good

 

[ppk]

Never seen Seiji does stuff outside Ivy/American type, this looks good

I thought the same. I much prefer English & Italian styles.

@DorianGreen those are beautiful.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Never seen Seiji does stuff outside Ivy/American type, this looks good

When he started his brand in 2016 that's the style he focused on, a slightly modernised take on a classic British dress shoes style. Then during Covid he revamped the brand to focus on the American style, which certainly made sense both given that he's much more unique in the bespoke shoe world, his American background and that it's more in line with his own style of dressing. But he still do superb sleek dress shoes if one wants to have that.

Here's an article from 2017 where one can see the old dressier samples, and in this podcast he talked about the revamp of the brand.

 

[jonathanS]

Looks like a McDonald’s wingtip 😂.

Seiji is great if you want Alden’s that fit properly and are made to a really really high standard. I think he excels in a loafer style

Just awesome (that heart-shaped facing!), a short wing adelaide by Seiji McCarthy.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Looks like a McDonald’s wingtip 😂.

Seiji is great if you want Alden’s that fit properly and are made to a really really high standard. I think he excels in a loafer style

I have a pair of bespoke longwings in the works from him. That's my favourite of his styles.