The Armoury - Official Affiliate Thread

[ValidusLA]

Has anyone had a chance to try the Armoury Yohei Fukuda designed shoes? I'm curious how they are in real life and what brands they might be comparable to.

The Armoury brand ones are quite nice. I've been trying to get an Oxblood Gloucester for like...3 years....they never have in my size.

 

[Cartier_Joe]

The Armoury brand ones are quite nice. I've been trying to get an Oxblood Gloucester for like...3 years....they never have in my size.

The Armoury brand ones are quite nice. I've been trying to get an Oxblood Gloucester for like...3 years....they never have in my size.

Don’t take the one time I’m able to be pompous away from me 😭😭😭 jk, only say that because they’re $2200+ shoes sitting that can’t be enjoyed . Lucky just bit the bullet & bought another just to ease the mind. but really, a YF next to any shoe, it’s tough not to go with the latter 100% of the time.

Btw - bad time for me to chime in that I have a used YF size 8UK that I’m selling. It’s one size too small (if you’ve ever searched Yohei Fukuda in SF, you can see my full year+ journey of me going mental trying to come to the realization that I have high arches 😭😭😭). I’d honestly cut a deal to get these gone, browsing on the YF site, just so I can order another pair.

Is this a sales pitch tangent ~ my bad

If you can high shine (similar to how they come out of the box from YF), there is nothing like it… i have all the stuff, just I wish I had the patience.

 

[hpreston]

All of the above but please be aware that the sleeves are too short for taller guys. They are even shorter than the standard Drakes for a size 40.

Yep. Currently only available in single sleeve length, downside for those that need longer, until they offer different lengths.

Seems ok for me (34” sleeve in most shirts)

 

[DrewMill]

Hey - which do you mean? Like the YF whole cut armory exclusive, or the Armory brand shoes, designed by Yohei (think theyre like $500-$700), but Yohei wouldn't put his name on it lol.

The Armoury brand. I'm mostly curious how that split toe derby compares to the TLB and C&J versions (both lesser than EG obvs.)

 

[epsilon22]

Was eyeing this navy hopsack Model 3 (probably from a past season?), but they just ran out of my size (50).

What do you all think about this navy hopsack Model 101 with flap pockets as a basic all-rounder autumn/winter navy sport coat?

It has more structured shoulders and flap pockets, as opposed to patch pockets on the Model 3. I kind of liked patch pockets on odd jackets, since navy + flap pockets might make a jacket look like an orphaned suit jacket. Also, obviously the 101 is a lot more expensive. I wished I pulled the trigger without thinking too much on the Model 3.

I might wait a bit to see what they bring in for this upcoming autumn/winter season as well.

 

[ericgereghty]

Was eyeing this navy hopsack Model 3 (probably from a past season?), but they just ran out of my size (50).

What do you all think about this navy hopsack Model 101 with flap pockets as a basic all-rounder autumn/winter navy sport coat?

It has more structured shoulders and flap pockets, as opposed to patch pockets on the Model 3. I kind of liked patch pockets on odd jackets, since navy + flap pockets might make a jacket look like an orphaned suit jacket. Also, obviously the 101 is a lot more expensive. I wished I pulled the trigger without thinking too much on the Model 3.

I might wait a bit to see what they bring in for this upcoming autumn/winter season as well.

I think I’d hold tight. They do pretty reliably offer a plain navy (not always Hopsack, admittedly) SC with each season, and it’s at least a decent bet the 101 will still be hanging around in a month or so.
Alternatively, if there’s no suitable Model 3, and you can stomach paying 101 prices, why not go MTO/MTM with Ring?

 

[RozenKristal]

Was eyeing this navy hopsack Model 3 (probably from a past season?), but they just ran out of my size (50).

What do you all think about this navy hopsack Model 101 with flap pockets as a basic all-rounder autumn/winter navy sport coat?

It has more structured shoulders and flap pockets, as opposed to patch pockets on the Model 3. I kind of liked patch pockets on odd jackets, since navy + flap pockets might make a jacket look like an orphaned suit jacket. Also, obviously the 101 is a lot more expensive. I wished I pulled the trigger without thinking too much on the Model 3.

I might wait a bit to see what they bring in for this upcoming autumn/winter season as well.

Yea, sometimes waiting and hesitation just make you miss out your size. I am sure there are something else, but I also prefer patch pockets for sport coat as well

 

[hpreston]

A few comments.

The 101 is almost twice the model 3

Model 3 is available made to order.

Agree with you that patch pockets are the way to go here.

Hopsack cloth is readily available even if that spefic cloth becomes unavailable, plenty of options to MTO one.

 

[Old Red]

In May I was considering the same Model 3 and there was naught in my size (56). As there was a bit of alteration needed to get me in a 56 previously MTO seemed the way to go. I placed an order for a Model 15 in Draper's hopsack; price for that style in that material was $1950. Hopefully I can share a photo of it next month.

 

[BomTrady]

A few comments.

The 101 is almost twice the model 3

Model 3 is available made to order.

Agree with you that patch pockets are the way to go here.

Hopsack cloth is readily available even if that spefic cloth becomes unavailable, plenty of options to MTO one.

In my humble opinion, this jacket is designed to have a more continental Euro look, and it's a bit on the formal side with a bit more structure, as you noted. I have the 101 in a tux. Patch pockets would be incongruous with this style. The model 3 on the other hand, is more like your run-of-mill Neapolitan jacket, soft and casual and is a totally different style. The model 3 is more versatile, however.

 

[epsilon22]

I think I’d hold tight. They do pretty reliably offer a plain navy (not always Hopsack, admittedly) SC with each season, and it’s at least a decent bet the 101 will still be hanging around in a month or so.
Alternatively, if there’s no suitable Model 3, and you can stomach paying 101 prices, why not go MTO/MTM with Ring?

Good to know. I'm starting an autumn/winter wardrobe since I came from the tropics, so while I have a few choices for summer, I doubt any of my lightweight jackets would work with NYC winter.

I did consider MTM/O, but it seems like the lead time is ~4 months, so I decided to look for OTR options right now, and perhaps do MTM/O for next year.

Yea, sometimes waiting and hesitation just make you miss out your size. I am sure there are something else, but I also prefer patch pockets for sport coat as well

Yeah, I was a bit occupied with moving apartment and travel these few weeks, so buying a jacket didn't make it to the top of my priority list lately.

Well, navy sport coat isn't exactly rare out there, so I'll surely find another one I like.

In May I was considering the same Model 3 and there was naught in my size (56). As there was a bit of alteration needed to get me in a 56 previously MTO seemed the way to go. I placed an order for a Model 15 in Draper's hopsack; price for that style in that material was $1950. Hopefully I can share a photo of it next month.

That would be appreciated. I was looking at some Drapers fabrics (I think it was the Montecarlo book) for possible summer-weight MTO jacket in the future.

In my humble opinion, this jacket is designed to have a more continental Euro look, and it's a bit on the formal side with a bit more structure, as you noted. I have the 101 in a tux. Patch pockets would be incongruous with this style. The model 3 on the other hand, is more like your run-of-mill Neapolitan jacket, soft and casual and is a totally different style. The model 3 is more versatile, however.

That's interesting to know, thanks.

 

[ericgereghty]

In May I was considering the same Model 3 and there was naught in my size (56). As there was a bit of alteration needed to get me in a 56 previously MTO seemed the way to go. I placed an order for a Model 15 in Draper's hopsack; price for that style in that material was $1950. Hopefully I can share a photo of it next month.

Interesting on the price quote. I got (much) higher quotes, though I'm guessing I got hit with the MTM rate...which would make sense since I'm not an MTO boy, fit wise.

In my humble opinion, this jacket is designed to have a more continental Euro look, and it's a bit on the formal side with a bit more structure, as you noted. I have the 101 in a tux. Patch pockets would be incongruous with this style. The model 3 on the other hand, is more like your run-of-mill Neapolitan jacket, soft and casual and is a totally different style. The model 3 is more versatile, however.

Would love to see pics of the tux in action if you have any!

 

[leapyourbar]

Am I going crazy, or has the price of MTO gone from $1500 to $1950 in the past six months? Was considering doing a model 15, but at $1950, I'd rather spend a few hundred extra for Orazio Luciano.

 

[Texasmade]

Am I going crazy, or has the price of MTO gone from $1500 to $1950 in the past six months? Was considering doing a model 15, but at $1950, I'd rather spend a few hundred extra for Orazio Luciano.

Pretty sure everything went up. I checked the L&L bespoke and now it's at $8800 when I remember it being $7700 not too long ago.

 

[epsilon22]

Am I going crazy, or has the price of MTO gone from $1500 to $1950 in the past six months? Was considering doing a model 15, but at $1950, I'd rather spend a few hundred extra for Orazio Luciano.

I think it might be a case of the website not being updated for a while. I remember back in April I came in to try some jackets, and casually asked about MTO price range. They said typically around 1.9K and above depending on fabric.

The website back then also showed $500 or 550 for Rota MTO, but anything wool from the Rota fabric book (didn't ask about other materials) seemed to be at least $650. Currently the website shows Rota MTO starting from $595.

I did wonder if going for Orazio, or even Model 101/103 would be worth it compared to Ring MTO/M, but Orazio is still closer to $3K, and 101/103 above that. I don't know if I even know enough to appreciate the better handwork. 🙃