The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[Mark from Plano]

Steed is pretty baller; I’ve thought about handing them some of my Neapolitan jackets to see if they can make a decent summer jacket. My linen DB is too heavy for the dc summers.

I’m surprised rubinacci doesn’t come to Texas.

The first thing Edwin made for me was a linen double breasted suit and it’s pretty heavy for Texas summers. But I had him do a 3-patch SB sport coat in a plum fabric that is unlined and lighter construction and is really great. He’s making me another in a light grey plaid that he’s doing straight to finish so that hopefully it’ll be here for at least part of the summer.

 

[lordsuperb]

The first thing Edwin made for me was a linen double breasted suit and it’s pretty heavy for Texas summers. But I had him do a 3-patch SB sport coat in a plum fabric that is unlined and lighter construction and is really great. He’s making me another in a light grey plaid that he’s doing straight to finish so that hopefully it’ll be here for at least part of the summer.

What is the fabric weight of the plum jacket?

 

[Mark from Plano]

I don’t really recall. 10oz maybe? No clue really. Matthew would know.

 

[MrFingers]

I just received a package from the Steed boys today in fact.
1. A pair of cream semi-bespoke summer trousers. The last of an order of three pair of trousers.
2. A bespoke waistcoat for my semi-bespoke tuxedo. Options in the semi-bespoke line are more limited and the waistcoat I wanted was only available bespoke so I had them order enough midnight cloth for all three pieces. I did the S-B two piece last year and then added the waistcoat this year.

Cream trousers in what cloth? I’ve been on the hunt for a pair for winter and a pair for summer. I’m about to settle on a cream/ecru linen pair but for winter I’m kinda lost honestly

 

[Mark from Plano]

Cream trousers in what cloth? I’ve been on the hunt for a pair for winter and a pair for summer. I’m about to settle on a cream/ecru linen pair but for winter I’m kinda lost honestly

I don’t recall exactly but they’re a lighter weight worsted wool. I only got them over Edwin’s objection. He hates making cream trousers. 😝

I have a winter OTR pair in a Fox cricket flannel that I like a lot. But was needing to upgrade my summer pair.

 

[Concordia]

Cream trousers in what cloth? I’ve been on the hunt for a pair for winter and a pair for summer. I’m about to settle on a cream/ecru linen pair but for winter I’m kinda lost honestly

Fox Flannels have about three or four options for this. Twill, barathea, flannel.

 

[poorsod]

Morning coat by Steed

 

[comrade]

Morning coat by Steed
View attachment 2007395

I wish I had a reason to wear such a get-up. Very elegant.

 

[jb335]

Have any more people had experience with Redmayne made to measure since it was last mentioned? I have several bespoke orders from Tom, and they are great, but I am thinking MTM might make more sense for something like a dinner suit, which will not be worn as frequently and thus it is more difficult to justify the added cost that comes with bespoke (especially if I also get an ivory or cream DJ). Having a better sense of how the MTM product compares would help.

Bumping this, would also be curious! Trying to decide between Steed and Redmayne for a MTM wedding suit for next year.

 

[comrade]

From their respective websites Steed has a more padded "British" shoulder
on their MTM compared to their bespoke which looks more "natural. Redmayne
seems to have more padded shoulders on both MTM and bespoke.

 

[A Y]

I would not get a Steed MTM unless they've completely changed whomever makes them.

Bespoke Redmayne is also soft shouldered with drape: it's basically what Mahon was cutting before at English Cut.

 

[jb335]

I would not get a Steed MTM unless they've completely changed whomever makes them.

Bespoke Redmayne is also soft shouldered with drape: it's basically what Mahon was cutting before at English Cut.

Thanks for the info. Would be curious to hear what you think is sub-par about Steed MTM, which seems to have a lot of fans on SF.

 

[A Y]

Thanks for the info. Would be curious to hear what you think is sub-par about Steed MTM, which seems to have a lot of fans on SF.

I'm basing my opinion on some photos that were posted here a while ago: they were boxy and shapeless: the total opposite of their bespoke line. I could not believe how bad they looked. Perhaps they've changed since.

 

[ispeakbespokeitaly]

I'm basing my opinion on some photos that were posted here a while ago: they were boxy and shapeless: the total opposite of their bespoke line. I could not believe how bad they looked. Perhaps they've changed since.

Usually , when you get an mtm you should have the option to ask to the tailor to modify the jacket (maybe tightening the weist to give a more fitted shape ; or also inserting a lower pad inside the shoulders).

 

[Mr. Six]

I believe Steed now has two MTM options. The newer option is what they call semi-bespoke, which is made by the same people who make their bespoke stuff and using the same materials but using more machine sewing and straight to finish. Edwin still does the measurements, of course. I haven't asked them for a while, but I think the older MTM option is still available and still made at the same factory.