The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[dieworkwear]

I'd actually be curious if there's any reason most tailors don't do single piece backs.

My understanding: if you need to do certain alterations in the future, you may be limited by the fact that there's no center back seam. For example, if you gain weight, an alterations tailor might let out the back seam. But now there's no back seam, the tailor will have to adjust the garment using side seams.

A center back seam can also allow you to get more shaping in the back. This may be useful if you have a very athletic build.

 

[bdavro23]

My understanding: if you need to do certain alterations in the future, you may be limited by the fact that there's no center back seam. For example, if you gain weight, an alterations tailor might let out the back seam. But now there's no back seam, the tailor will have to adjust the garment using side seams.

A center back seam can also allow you to get more shaping in the back. This may be useful if you have a very athletic build.

This is a double edged sword because alterations using the center back seam can be very complicated and are often poorly understood. If we're talking about an actual maker, then they probably understand all of this, but you are really rolling the dice with an alterations tailor or someone who doesnt have the knowledge of how to actually cut and sew a jacket themselves.

 

[jimney]

My understanding: if you need to do certain alterations in the future, you may be limited by the fact that there's no center back seam. For example, if you gain weight, an alterations tailor might let out the back seam. But now there's no back seam, the tailor will have to adjust the garment using side seams.

A center back seam can also allow you to get more shaping in the back. This may be useful if you have a very athletic build.

I'm hoping they wouldn't suggest it if it would limit adjustments in the future, but I'm guessing they would just let it out at the side seams or something.

 

[Butler]

My latest Steven Hitchcock commision - Foxbrothers cloth - my usual gauntlet cuffs, high waistcoat with vertical hole for watchchain and with pockets slanted to match the slanted to the coat's, 1 patched breast pocket.

 

[lordsuperb]

I'm hoping they wouldn't suggest it if it would limit adjustments in the future, but I'm guessing they would just let it out at the side seams or something.

As long as you don’t pick up any CrossFit habits you’ll be fine.

 

[classicalthunde]

I'm hoping they wouldn't suggest it if it would limit adjustments in the future, but I'm guessing they would just let it out at the side seams or something.

IIRC Steed offers lifetime alterations on their garments, so I'm sure they would build in the appropriate allowances in order to compensate for only being able to adjust on the sides vs. the sides and the center back

 

[Concordia]

My latest Steven Hitchcock commision - Foxbrothers cloth - my usual gauntlet cuffs, high waistcoat with vertical hole for watchchain and with pockets slanted to match the slanted to the coat's, 1 patched breast pocket. View attachment 1744323

Nice to see you here again!

 

[Butler]

Nice to see you here again!

Thank you, very kind.

 

[Alias]

Went to see Steed today in DC. It's been ages since I've had something bespoke made, nothing I have fits me anymore and the last 4 years were all business casual (with the last 2 being, uh, REALLY casual.) Edwin, Matthew, and Chris were all great to speak with. Excited!

 

[rjkabk]

Just received my first Steed MTM. I'm loving the jacket so far, most comfortable jacket I have ever worn. There may be a few adjustments they need to make when I see them again but nothing has stood out. This is the first time I have received a jacket without material bunching up under the back of the collar that needed to be corrected. I do have some questions about pants. Maybe its just the way Steed does pants, but it seems there is some excess material in the seat/crouch/thigh area. While it does make the pants comfortable, it seems to make my legs look shorter. Judging by some of the post from Steed on internet, this seems to be normal with their pants, but can anyone confirm this is normal or not?

 

[Mark from Plano]

Without seeing pics it’s hard to know what you mean. I’d suggest setting up a zoom call with them so they can have a look.

 

[rjkabk]

Without seeing pics it’s hard to know what you mean. I’d suggest setting up a zoom call with them so they can have a look.

Yes Matthew mentioned that as an option when they mailed the suit. I was wondering if they can tell much from a zoom call. But I guess I will give it a shot.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Yes Matthew mentioned that as an option when they mailed the suit. I was wondering if they can tell much from a zoom call. But I guess I will give it a shot.

They can.

 

[comrade]

This is a double edged sword because alterations using the center back seam can be very complicated and are often poorly understood. If we're talking about an actual maker, then they probably understand all of this, but you are really rolling the dice with an alterations tailor or someone who doesnt have the knowledge of how to actually cut and sew a jacket themselves.

My understanding: if you need to do certain alterations in the future, you may be limited by the fact that there's no center back seam. For example, if you gain weight, an alterations tailor might let out the back seam. But now there's no back seam, the tailor will have to adjust the garment using side seams.

A center back seam can also allow you to get more shaping in the back. This may be useful if you have a very athletic build.

In my experience the tailor usually took in or let out the side seams.
I often buy RTW a size larger to accommodate broader than average
chest and shoulders. So,I often have jackets taken in.If this practice is
the norm, then it shouldn't matter whether there is a center seam or not.

 

[lordsuperb]