SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[clee1982]

I have an Edward Sexton greatcoat, they fit superbly and worth the money. The obsidian green and black one share a similar cloth, as in they're the same weaves and materials with a lusterous sheen.
I personally went with a navy greatcoat (100% wool), as it'll be my main and only overcoat for the next 8 years or so.
It fitted my frame perfectly, literally no fault in it whatsoever. No alterations too despite being average height. I mean it's a long coat but they're meant to be long, sleeves fitted well.
I'm getting a raincoat from them most likely in the same style.
The shoulders on the great coat makes it really elegant.
I might go with their RTW in all honesty, but only once I have the money to do so. It seems to be tailor where everything fits off the the rack. The shoulders are very masculine.

Good to know I’m 5’7” always wonder if the overcoat would be too long, probably would have to try next time, though I was looking at the black one

 

[DorianGreen]

Good to know I’m 5’7” always wonder if the overcoat would be too long, probably would have to try next time, though I was looking at the black one

I like the Sexton coat, but would prefer by far the one from The Anthology, much more classic and wearable, in my opinion. As you noticed ,the Great Coat is quite dramatic, with a military uniform vibe.

 

[sipang]

Dissenting voice on that Phineas Cole, cloth and stripe pattern are just right for this. My lazy go-to for these kind of jackets is a roughly matching monochromatic outfit underneath with maybe some texture play. Here something very basic like a black turtleneck, black flannel trousers (or anything else that's not too fine, lightweight and shiny), not sure about the belt but it's a peak lapel jkt so something to match that vibe.

The Craig pic is stupid, completely different kind of coat and starting with a tee is almost always the dumbest move, of course you'll look like a schlub

 

[clee1982]

I like the Sexton coat, but would prefer by far the one from The Anthology, much more classic and wearable, in my opinion. As you noticed ,the Great Coat is quite dramatic, with a military uniform vibe.

100% sure Anthology is a lot more wearable but I just like Great Coat in an overly dramatic sense, so I suppose with SF the solution is always "get both"

@sipang
yea I was thinking slightly stereotype architect look? this would be easier had it been grey jacket with stripe instead of black jacket with stripe?

 

[sipang]

@clee1982 The color is ok to me, it already looks anthracite/dark grey overall with the lighter stripes. A jacket in a lighter grey might be too much of a contrast with an all black outfit underneath and then it starts looking like an orphan again.

The peak lapel and shoulder on this look too sharp and showy for the architect look to me, I feel like you need to stay closer to Tom Ford and the likes but idk we may have different notions of what the stereotypical architect look is.

 

[hendrix]

I'm afraid I'm with @dieworkwear on this subject: some suit jackets are too obviously suit jackets to work with anything else, and this is one of them. And I wish sellers and sites would stop calling them 'blazers'...

I really like the idea of repurposing orphaned suit jackets but ideally it would be slightly subverted. seems like a kinda margiela type thing to do.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

This sounds like a challenge...

 

[clee1982]

yea, sounds I'll be as cheap as possible and see if I can get sub $100 and experiment...

Edit: now black ish jacket I think solid very dark brown with texture would work

 

[double00]

This sounds like a challenge...

this was thrift vader's big move to use obviously orphaned jackets , he posted a lot of fits on this premise . i've always rather liked the idea

 

[clee1982]

Is he still on SF, he used to be on car thread a lot never knew he post fits

 

[whorishconsumer]

I seem to recall rancorous back and forth over his fit pics.

 

[double00]

he posted fits in swd i think and also the thrift threak .

he used lot of striped suit jackets and i recall him usually having overlong pants but i don't remember exactly why , i think he stacked ? and was a proponent of black tailoring , fwiw he lived in northern japan . so he had a look and was maybe ahead of the curve in some ways . it's been awhile since i've actually looked at them but i do remember he had a pov . i'll edit to add he was doing a chaplin tramp thing .

and yeah pugnacious maybe . idk what he's up to these days , hope he's well .

 

[double00]

oh and like i was saying i can appreciate the idea of orphaning a suit jacket but i'd go with the stouter say 80s cloths and earlier ,

i think the typical 90s and later worsted supers as made up in those era suit jackets are to me nearly useless fabrics and one of the reasons that tailoring died . i think those would be a colossal challenge to get to work as orphaned but maybe someone will come up with a solution . i doubt it .

but i could see taking an old oxxford in a good cloth and pair it with a fat wale corduroy , denim , etc .

there is a spectrum of *suiting* which i think most everybody on this site would get what i'm saying here : you can have a very hardwearing fabric that you could use for a lot of things but you make a suit with it . and on the other hand you can have a fabric that is really only able to be made up as a suit as it's almost useless for anything else . i'd look for stuff on the hardwearing side as i think it will be easier to pair what i'm sayin

 

[clee1982]

Yup definitely not worsted, need texture for it to work, luckily this looks like flannel to me

 

[double00]

Yup definitely not worsted, need texture for it to work, luckily this looks like flannel to me

are we talking about the phineas cole ? i def like it for this project , that's what got me to post here . i like where the thread's at .