SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[Daniel Hakimi]

Ugh, I told myself I wouldn't comment on styleforum again after last time, but...

cut is better in person, call it more angular Tom Ford if I want to find something people can easily identify

Edit: their RtW do go on sale, 40% off max?

I feel like Tom Ford is more angular Nutter/Sexton.

Nutty tailoring (I'm calling it that now) is all about big bellies and (parallel cut) flares and funky pagoda shoulders and the drape cut chest and stuff. Tom Ford toned that all down. Slight belly, angular structure, slimmer cut, and obviously you're not going to get a drape cut RTW.

Seeing the boring fabrics and boring styling and slim trouser cut on a lot of rtw Sexton makes me sad. The bespoke tells the story so much better.

I think HA HA HA rtw managed to embody classic Nutty bespoke better than current Tom Ford or current RTW Sexton. You can obviously still get the same at higher quality from Sexton, the cutters there are great. And that might be why Harry Styles owns five Sexton suits himself.

 

[clee1982]

You should go when they visit NYC next time, they were just here in Oct.

I tried on both their RTW and offshore bespoke (since offshore starts with block pattern).

Supposedly the offshore is not off true bespoke if you stick to house style (maybe tone down a bit)?

My Tom Ford comparison point is mostly Windsor, I only got a MTO jacket from ES so not sure about pants.

By default they don’t go as far out as say Husband Paris 70s stuff (though Nina loved it and can certainly do it at request)

For that kind thing I got to say at least based on pictures Chittborough and Morgan’s house style is the mostly easily “wearable” (vs ES or MB when they truly stick to their house style)

 

[clee1982]

And I would say their current house style isn’t to go all 100% 70s Nutty tailoring

 

[clee1982]

And when I refer to husband Paris I really just mean their pants, their jacket is too “narrow shoulder” type of French thing than anything ES would do

 

[clee1982]

Ugh, I told myself I wouldn't comment on styleforum again after last time, but...



I feel like Tom Ford is more angular Nutter/Sexton.

Nutty tailoring (I'm calling it that now) is all about big bellies and (parallel cut) flares and funky pagoda shoulders and the drape cut chest and stuff. Tom Ford toned that all down. Slight belly, angular structure, slimmer cut, and obviously you're not going to get a drape cut RTW.

Seeing the boring fabrics and boring styling and slim trouser cut on a lot of rtw Sexton makes me sad. The bespoke tells the story so much better.

I think HA HA HA rtw managed to embody classic Nutty bespoke better than current Tom Ford or current RTW Sexton. You can obviously still get the same at higher quality from Sexton, the cutters there are great. And that might be why Harry Styles owns five Sexton suits himself.

By the way surprisingly ES is coming to NYC in early to mid Dec again, you should take a look

 

[gettoasty]

@clee1982 what are your thoughts about Anthology? I’ve seen 1-2 seasons now and like what I see online. Gives me some Armoury vibes, I find it looks a tier above Drakes styling wise (my own preference). Any experience with their return and shipping?

Considering this jacket https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/wool-tweed-sport-jacket-oatmeal-herringbone

How’s the sizing? Unsure whether to size 48 or 50, want to be able to wear a knit underneath. This particular jacket reminds me of an old Eidos offering, which is tickling my fancy.

Did you mention before they are or are not slim fitting? For reference, I love the fit of the Drakes Games jackets. Size 38 fits generously IMO.

 

[whorishconsumer]

@clee1982 what are your thoughts about Anthology? I’ve seen 1-2 seasons now and like what I see online. Gives me some Armoury vibes, I find it looks a tier above Drakes styling wise (my own preference). Any experience with their return and shipping?

Considering this jacket https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/wool-tweed-sport-jacket-oatmeal-herringbone

How’s the sizing? Unsure whether to size 48 or 50, want to be able to wear a knit underneath. This particular jacket reminds me of an old Eidos offering, which is tickling my fancy.

Did you mention before they are or are not slim fitting? For reference, I love the fit of the Drakes Games jackets. Size 38 fits generously IMO.

God I'm envious of you normies with your accommodating sizes. I've sized out of RTW for pretty much everything Styleforum-approved.

(I also like The Anthology).

 

[clee1982]

@clee1982 what are your thoughts about Anthology? I’ve seen 1-2 seasons now and like what I see online. Gives me some Armoury vibes, I find it looks a tier above Drakes styling wise (my own preference). Any experience with their return and shipping?

Considering this jacket https://theanthology.net/shop/sport-jackets/wool-tweed-sport-jacket-oatmeal-herringbone

How’s the sizing? Unsure whether to size 48 or 50, want to be able to wear a knit underneath. This particular jacket reminds me of an old Eidos offering, which is tickling my fancy.

Did you mention before they are or are not slim fitting? For reference, I love the fit of the Drakes Games jackets. Size 38 fits generously IMO.

I like Anthology a lot, I don’t have reference to drakes but I’m usually US36 and I stick to EU46 with them (though I MTM with them but I can take RTW in that size and be decently happy about it)

Only thing is they might run short, I’m only 5’7” so it works just fine for me.

Not sure if I can put knit under though as I don’t wear knit. It definitely would fits slimmer vs Armoury EU46 Model 3, I’m EU44 in Armoury Model 3 though.


Edit: personally really like the grey herringbone just because it’s easy (and I pair with black pants more often), none are really that SWD tailoring though

 

[ppk]

I bought this DB suit from @mack11211 on eBay. This is a bespoke suit from Fallan & Harvey stitched in 1987 according to the tag.

This seems to fit me well, the trousers are perfect: waist and length. If I get some braces, I'm all set. The coat also seems good, but I'd appreciate honest feedback.

The only thing that seems out of sorts is the cuff on the pants. They are only one inch. I'm wondering if I should make those bigger.

Whoever this suit was stitched for was very similar to me.

 

[DorianGreen]

I bought this DB suit from @mack11211 on eBay. This is a bespoke suit from Fallan & Harvey stitched in 1987 according to the tag.

This seems to fit me well, the trousers are perfect: waist and length. If I get some braces, I'm all set. The coat also seems good, but I'd appreciate honest feedback.

The only thing that seems out of sorts is the cuff on the pants. They are only one inch. I'm wondering if I should make those bigger.

Whoever this suit was stitched for was very similar to me.

View attachment 2075047 View attachment 2075049 View attachment 2075051

As you said, the fit is pretty good overall. And yes, if enough fabric provided, I would certainly make the cuffs on the trousers bigger (at least 2 inches).

 

[clee1982]

Orphan jacket for cheap l, though I don’t have a good idea on what SWD tailoring pairing one would do with this

https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/clothing/suiting/phineas-cole-striped-blazer-iok76

 

[FlyingMonkey]

I'm afraid I'm with @dieworkwear on this subject: some suit jackets are too obviously suit jackets to work with anything else, and this is one of them. And I wish sellers and sites would stop calling them 'blazers'...

 

[clee1982]

In CM context definitely useless as separate, my orphan jacket experiment the other day was ok though in 70s kind of way

 

[WatchmeWhipWatchmena]

And speaking of coat I like these

The Anthology x Permanent Style Polo Coat - Herringbone Donegal Tweed — The Anthology

75% Wool 25% Merino Wool A luxury Polo Coat designed in close collaboration with Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, arguably the leading authority of classic & luxury menswear. This cloth is specially woven for us by the last genuine traditional Donegal weaver in Ireland, in grey and deep

theanthology.net

Or more dramatic (though probably not green)

Obsidian Green Venetian Great Coat

The Edward Sexton greatcoat is an epitome of luxury and elegance, combining masterful cutting and tailoring techniques. Drawing inspiration from mid-century military overcoats, it features a generous stand-and-fall collar, an 'S-shaped' double-breasted closure, and a pleated and panelled back...

www.edwardsexton.co.uk

Edit: not SWD in the current trend we’re going I suppose, maybe the 2nd one but still not same direction

I have an Edward Sexton greatcoat, they fit superbly and worth the money. The obsidian green and black one share a similar cloth, as in they're the same weaves and materials with a lusterous sheen.
I personally went with a navy greatcoat (100% wool), as it'll be my main and only overcoat for the next 8 years or so.
It fitted my frame perfectly, literally no fault in it whatsoever. No alterations too despite being average height. I mean it's a long coat but they're meant to be long, sleeves fitted well.
I'm getting a raincoat from them most likely in the same style.
The shoulders on the great coat makes it really elegant.
I might go with their RTW in all honesty, but only once I have the money to do so. It seems to be tailor where everything fits off the the rack. The shoulders are very masculine.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Orphan jacket for cheap l, though I don’t have a good idea on what SWD tailoring pairing one would do with this

https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/clothing/suiting/phineas-cole-striped-blazer-iok76

This is sort of the best you can hope for with this and I'm not saying that it's necessarily to aspire to