SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[conceptual 4est]

Can't really speak to the warmth element but my overall experience with pure cashmere coats is that don't really care about the extra softness and I'm not a fan of how it generally looks and drapes, feels too flimsy and delicate. I'm overgeneralizing and I wear the coats occasionally but I much prefer a good textured plain wool, some sturdy tweeds or if you want something fuzzier and really spongey a blend of wool and mohair/alpaca/angora etc

I have a 100% cashmere coat from Raf's time at CK. Unlined, slightly oversized. I dig it a lot. The best word I can think of is floppy - it's very different to any of my other coats but it does feel nice and the balance of it is really good for how floppy it is. I actually appreciate that it's unlined because of the way it helps it move. It's not very warm though as you can imagine.

Wish I could find some more recent photos but whatever. I basically still wear it in the same way

 

[FlyingHorker]

@conceptual 4est I'm surprised it's not warm. I always read that cashmere is much warmer than wool or camel hair if the weight is the same.

Is it because the coat is generally worn open? That floppiness sounds cozy.

 

[double00]

^ unlined so he says , it will otherwise not be as warm as lined

 

[Superb0bo]

Unlined coats make me sad.

 

[TheIronDandy]

You have any experience with cashmere coats?

The idea of a coat that's as floppy and spongey as my lightweight wool raglan, but with warmth that's greater than camelhair sounds really appealing.

I've been looking a bit at making a cashmere coat, and for what it's worth, here are my observations:

In addition to the softness, cashmere fabrics are usually a bit lighter. Probably a combination of the cost of the material, and the fact that it's rather warm. Most cashmere overcoat fabrics didn't feel to spongey to me, they felt more like a slightly thicker, still very fine jacket fabric. I think they would make poor coats, both because of the drape and because of the thinness of the cloth. I would worry that it would tear.

That being said, I DID find some spongier cashmeres, but then we were looking at 600g+ fabric weight. At this point, price becomes an issue for most people. Interestingly enough, I found a 750g double sided cashmere (two thinner fabrics sewn together to form a thicker fabric), which would likely drape very well AND which was fairly affordable for the material and weight (my tailor quoted about $3000 for a bespoke coat in that material). But 750g cashmere is probably too warm for Stockholm 10 months of the year, so I'll hold off on that one!

 

[FlyingHorker]

^ unlined so he says , it will otherwise not be as warm as lined

Now I'm confused. I thought unlined just means no bemberg lining? I know many sports coats and overcoats have a "quarter lining", where just the sleeves and upper back are lined.

I haven't noticed any warmth difference for linings, only how easy it is to slip a coat on and off.

I've been looking a bit at making a cashmere coat, and for what it's worth, here are my observations:

In addition to the softness, cashmere fabrics are usually a bit lighter. Probably a combination of the cost of the material, and the fact that it's rather warm. Most cashmere overcoat fabrics didn't feel to spongey to me, they felt more like a slightly thicker, still very fine jacket fabric. I think they would make poor coats, both because of the drape and because of the thinness of the cloth. I would worry that it would tear.

That being said, I DID find some spongier cashmeres, but then we were looking at 600g+ fabric weight. At this point, price becomes an issue for most people. Interestingly enough, I found a 750g double sided cashmere (two thinner fabrics sewn together to form a thicker fabric), which would likely drape very well AND which was fairly affordable for the material and weight (my tailor quoted about $3000 for a bespoke coat in that material). But 750g cashmere is probably too warm for Stockholm 10 months of the year, so I'll hold off on that one!

Thanks, seems like it's 0-2 for cashmere coats so far. Good cashmere always seemed like the ultimate luxury material, but it sounds like it's overrated for coats. Maybe materials like angora/alpaca/mohair blends are nicer for my tastes.

750g is some beefy cashmere. The heaviest coat I have is a raglan in 720g wool, and I find it to be a bulky fabric overall. The most absurd fabric I've read about is the London Lounge Everest Cashmere in 1000g.

Edit: Damn, seller said the coat I'm looking at is heavyweight cashmere and not lightweight. Temptation rising by 10x.

 

[TheIronDandy]

Now I'm confused. I thought unlined just means no bemberg lining? I know many sports coats and overcoats have a "quarter lining", where just the sleeves and upper back are lined.

I haven't noticed any warmth difference for linings, only how easy it is to slip a coat on and off.

Thanks, seems like it's 0-2 for cashmere coats so far. Good cashmere always seemed like the ultimate luxury material, but it sounds like it's overrated for coats. Maybe materials like angora/alpaca/mohair blends are nicer for my tastes.

750g is some beefy cashmere. The heaviest coat I have is a raglan in 720g wool, and I find it to be a bulky fabric overall. The most absurd fabric I've read about is the London Lounge Everest Cashmere in 1000g.

Edit: Damn, seller said the coat I'm looking at is heavyweight cashmere and not lightweight. Temptation rising by 10x.

I totally feel the draw to the cashmere coat as an expression of luxury. I recently bought a vintage Vicuña coat - it's far too warm to wear this early in autumn, but I still do it!

And I'm STILL considering a polo coat in that 750g cashmere... the running joke with my tailor is "It's not a polo coat, it's a purple label coat!"

 

[FlyingHorker]

I totally feel the draw to the cashmere coat as an expression of luxury. I recently bought a vintage Vicuña coat - it's far too warm to wear this early in autumn, but I still do it!

And I'm STILL considering a polo coat in that 750g cashmere... the running joke with my tailor is "It's not a polo coat, it's a purple label coat!"

I'm excited, and it's not even my coat!

If you have an outfit with that coat, and pictures of the coat itself, I'd love to see them.

A polo coat in a camel colour is a quintessential coat IMO. I'd say raglans are the most versatile, but a polo coat would be next for me. It has a flair to it, but looks appropriate with a hoodie and sneakers, to wearing a suit underneath.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Germane to the conversation, I just bought a cashmere Polo sportcoat (probably 90s or later vintage) somewhat by accident, in that I don't think I gave any of the above consideration prior to purchase and was more focused on the pattern and fit. Given it's 100% cashmere, I'm actually surprised by the density and find it drapes pretty well, although I do note some creasing from it having been folded and some mild, rolling indentation, which I think is maybe part of what is being referred to here as floppiness.

Recognizing it's no Purple Label or true vintage Ralph, it's kind of mind-altering realizing I got this for ~$145.

 

[TheIronDandy]

Couple that my girl took, and one from the tailors. It's a bit shorter than I'd prefer, but it's so warm it's probably better that way!

 

[lemmywinks]

Looking for a dark brown sport coat in a more slouchy fit that I can dress down easily with jeans + t-shirt... any suggestions on where to look? I've been thinking of getting one made but I feel like it might be weird for a tailor to intentionally make something so baggy when they're used to creating something more form fitting.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Couple that my girl took off me, and one from the tailors. It's a bit shorter than I'd prefer, but it's so warm it's probably better that way!

Great photos, vicuna looks like cashmere or camelhair from a distance. Love that last shot. Coupled with the hair, it looks perfect with the extended shoulders.

Looking for a dark brown sport coat in a more slouchy fit that I can dress down easily with jeans + t-shirt... any suggestions on where to look? I've been thinking of getting one made but I feel like it might be weird for a tailor to intentionally make something so baggy when they're used to creating something more form fitting.

You could contact Scott Fraser. It says they can make jackets and not just suits. "Coffee and brown jagged wool" seems like it may work.

Single Breasted SFC Suit (other fabric options available)

MADE-TO-ORDER ITEM. Made-to-order in the heart of London (UK), please allow 6-8 weeks from your order date for your suit to be hand-made and dispatched/collected. We introduce to you the single-breasted SFC suit. Simple in it's construction and design, yet still distils all the reference points...

scottfrasercollection.com

They don't seem as slouchy though if you went true to size, I wonder if it would work if you sized up.

 

[clee1982]

What do you guys mean by cashmere coat not warm?

 

[sipang]

It's over for cashmere. Unlined coat can be nice if the fabric is thick and heavy enough, like those vintages coat I talked about (1/4 lined but wthv), or double face stuff like @TheIronDandy mentioned. Traditonnal loden coats (80/20 wool alpaca or mohair) also often come in lightly and partially lined designs

 

[clee1982]

So I guess you dislike cashmere because its usually more luxury appearance (more like worsted stuff by default from most retailer?)

just think hard to fault cashmere on the being warm and lighter front