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A-Lawson

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I got measured in store when I was at Stockholm. I was told that the custom made is based on a pattern called Lazio La Spalla, which supposedly is a variant of Lazio. Not sure exactly the different parameters but I felt that the La Spalla was a bit fuller, for instance bigger armholes.
Kostas who frequents this thread used to work at SS and clarifyingly wrote this:
 

A-Lawson

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Thanks for reply. I am now in front of decision of what type of lapels to choose in Custom Order for a grey sportcoat I want to make. I was opting to choose the peak lapels, but was afraid that standard will be too narrow and wide will be just too off and not my style. Those from the picture of @bemed look however pretty good. I am also considering those new concave which looks kind of like in neo cut in S&M sportcoats. What do you think guys?

Btw. Those concave lapels in custom made/poster by some of users here and the concave visible on the SuSu site in their Roma suite look totally different. On the visualization they are curved and in these roma suits they looks like just kind of a standard wide lapel...
I disagree with the last part, as with the wide width lapels you can barely see chest pocket compared to the concave lapels. The major difference is at the buttoning point and lapel roll, as well as it curves in on the body of the lapel so that the chest pocket is more visible. The gorge also looks like it sits a bit lower since the angle is tilted differently, which is a better look in my opinion.

For peak lapels I would definitely go with the standard width, but I think the standard notch lapels look quite bad (high gorge, very slim), so I would go with the concave lapels.
 

dreamspace

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What's the verdict on SuSu MTM vs the usual Italian brands that will cost you 50% more? Canali, Caruso, Corneliani, Lardini, and all those.

Where I'm from (Norway), menswear stores that carry those brands tend to offer "MTM days" twice a year, in which case you'll only pay the base price, no MTM/agent fees - which are usually 10%-15%.

From a customer point of view, the people/reps that work at those shops have been in the game for decades and measured thousands of MTM suit, so at least I can trust their expertise.

But I have never used the SuSu MTM program.
 

A-Lawson

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What's the verdict on SuSu MTM vs the usual Italian brands that will cost you 50% more? Canali, Caruso, Corneliani, Lardini, and all those.

Where I'm from (Norway), menswear stores that carry those brands tend to offer "MTM days" twice a year, in which case you'll only pay the base price, no MTM/agent fees - which are usually 10%-15%.

From a customer point of view, the people/reps that work at those shops have been in the game for decades and measured thousands of MTM suit, so at least I can trust their expertise.

But I have never used the SuSu MTM program.
As a fellow Norwegian, I would not trust the "expertise" of the majority of people who work in stores who offer MTM here. Norway is a sartorial wasteland, and most of the so-called experts here wear suit trousers like they are yoga pants, a suit jackets buttoning button about to fire off into orbit, and sleeves so tight they can barely bend their arms. Norway probably has the worst dressed men in the developed world, and as a result - the service offered reflects the demand and severely low quality expectations.

Competence aside - the quality of the "usual Italian brands" is not better than SuitSupply, and their quality control has gotten worse over the years. They also have this intense need to put the gorge on top of the shoulder for some reason with the exception of Canali. However, their cuts often look weird and unflattering, as I question whether they were cut for a human body at all.

To conclude, if you get the measurements right at SuitSupply you will not get better value or a better quality product (even at "målsømdager") here in Norway with the brands you mentioned. If you want the best possible product per unit of money spent and don't need an Italian brand name or the "Made in Italy"-text - go with SS.
 

dreamspace

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As a fellow Norwegian, I would not trust the "expertise" of the majority of people who work in stores who offer MTM here. Norway is a sartorial wasteland, and most of the so-called experts here wear suit trousers like they are yoga pants, a suit jackets buttoning button about to fire off into orbit, and sleeves so tight they can barely bend their arms. Norway probably has the worst dressed men in the developed world, and as a result - the service offered reflects the demand and severely low quality expectations.

Competence aside - the quality of the "usual Italian brands" is not better than SuitSupply, and their quality control has gotten worse over the years. They also have this intense need to put the gorge on top of the shoulder for some reason with the exception of Canali. However, their cuts often look weird and unflattering, as I question whether they were cut for a human body at all.

To conclude, if you get the measurements right at SuitSupply you will not get better value or a better quality product (even at "målsømdager") here in Norway with the brands you mentioned. If you want the best possible product per unit of money spent and don't need an Italian brand name or the "Made in Italy"-text - go with SS.
Yes, I wouldn't purchase MTM just anywhere - but at least like Ferner Jacobsen, L'Escalier, Gunnar Øye, etc. have offered MTM for at least 3-4 decades now - and Ferner has offered Atelier Munro MTM for the past 5 years as a more "affordable" option.

I've only visited SS Copenhagen a couple of times, and to be honest, I got mixed vibes from that store - but that's just the staff being perpetually too busy.

The problem is that for the past years, I've lived quite rural (compared to metropolitan areas), but travel quite a lot due to work, and have to wear a suit for many of those travels - so I'm looking for decent MTM where I can nail down the fit, and then keep ordering suits/jackets once the measurements are down.

Mond seemed promising - the styles were very much #menswear oriented, which was reflected by how their staff dressed. Not a single skinny fit garment to be seen in the entire store, any of the three times I visited them - and from my brief discussion, they seemed to offer a ton of options.
 

Dan Dynamic

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Yes, I wouldn't purchase MTM just anywhere - but at least like Ferner Jacobsen, L'Escalier, Gunnar Øye, etc. have offered MTM for at least 3-4 decades now - and Ferner has offered Atelier Munro MTM for the past 5 years as a more "affordable" option.

I've only visited SS Copenhagen a couple of times, and to be honest, I got mixed vibes from that store - but that's just the staff being perpetually too busy.

The problem is that for the past years, I've lived quite rural (compared to metropolitan areas), but travel quite a lot due to work, and have to wear a suit for many of those travels - so I'm looking for decent MTM where I can nail down the fit, and then keep ordering suits/jackets once the measurements are down.

Mond seemed promising - the styles were very much #menswear oriented, which was reflected by how their staff dressed. Not a single skinny fit garment to be seen in the entire store, any of the three times I visited them - and from my brief discussion, they seemed to offer a ton of options.
Suitsupply in Copenhagen does not impress me. Indeed, they seem too busy to help anybody but those who has an appointment.

Also, they dress as if after work they are heading straight to the local yoga studio in their suits.

The reason why SuSu MTM is highly regarded by me is not because I find the jackets or whatever to be of exquisite quality. I use SuSu's MTM program to nail down my fit. The best thing is that you can return MTM garments for free.
 

dreamspace

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Also - have anyone had good experience with finding more relaxed or classic menswear fits? The problem is that when I try SS garments in the store, almost every single one has felt hypermodern and skin tight. I've written it before in this thread, but I simply could not find anything that fit me in the Copenhagen store. I use 54R in modern Corneliani, but even SS 56R was far too tight - and when I asked about larger sizes, one of the workers told me that they had larger sizes back in the storage room - but he was too busy with some other customer. So I figured that if I'm gonna try SS, it must be MTM.
 

A-Lawson

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Yes, I wouldn't purchase MTM just anywhere - but at least like Ferner Jacobsen, L'Escalier, Gunnar Øye, etc. have offered MTM for at least 3-4 decades now - and Ferner has offered Atelier Munro MTM for the past 5 years as a more "affordable" option.

I've only visited SS Copenhagen a couple of times, and to be honest, I got mixed vibes from that store - but that's just the staff being perpetually too busy.

The problem is that for the past years, I've lived quite rural (compared to metropolitan areas), but travel quite a lot due to work, and have to wear a suit for many of those travels - so I'm looking for decent MTM where I can nail down the fit, and then keep ordering suits/jackets once the measurements are down.

Mond seemed promising - the styles were very much #menswear oriented, which was reflected by how their staff dressed. Not a single skinny fit garment to be seen in the entire store, any of the three times I visited them - and from my brief discussion, they seemed to offer a ton of options.
I would steer clear from FJ, L'Escalier and GØ. Even if they have offered MTM for decades, it's not the same people who have offered that service all that time. They people who work there now have very little experience, and seeing the way they wear a suit themselves - I would not trust them for a second to make one for me. Atelier Munro is not really that great either, and was what SuitSupply used to use before they turned their MTM to in-house production.

SS Stockholm is probably a better and closer option than Copenhagen.

Mond is much more competent than the ones you've mentioned previously, but the quality control is worse than that of SuitSupply, although Mond has a much better selection of fabrics (especially English). Mond is quite a bit more expensive as well.

Suitsupply in Copenhagen does not impress me. Indeed, they seem too busy to help anybody but those who has an appointment.

Also, they dress as if after work they are heading straight to the local yoga studio in their suits.

The reason why SuSu MTM is highly regarded by me is not because I find the jackets or whatever to be of exquisite quality. I use SuSu's MTM program to nail down my fit. The best thing is that you can return MTM garments for free.
This is very true.
Also - have anyone had good experience with finding more relaxed or classic menswear fits? The problem is that when I try SS garments in the store, almost every single one has felt hypermodern and skin tight. I've written it before in this thread, but I simply could not find anything that fit me in the Copenhagen store. I use 54R in modern Corneliani, but even SS 56R was far too tight - and when I asked about larger sizes, one of the workers told me that they had larger sizes back in the storage room - but he was too busy with some other customer. So I figured that if I'm gonna try SS, it must be MTM.
I wear mostly 1930s cuts, and have made that work excellently via SuitSupply MTM. I wouldn't touch their RTW with a stick.
 

St1X

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Suitsupply is really a hit or miss when it comes to MTM - their sales advisors heavily lean towards skinny fits. Even their OTR fits that are described as regular are in fact slim and I'd say very slim.
So you have to really know what you want and push to get that fit and demand remaking it if it's not up to your standard. Especially if you don't have the slim body type.
It's been mentioned here that Stockholm store might is better than Oslo or Copenhagen. I am from Stockholm and what I described above applies to it.
 

CWV

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What fabric would you recomemd for a custom suit if I wanted so,ethimg on the lighter side? Something that’s good for summer and for mild winter or autom? In blue or grey tones
 

A-Lawson

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Suitsupply is really a hit or miss when it comes to MTM - their sales advisors heavily lean towards skinny fits. Even their OTR fits that are described as regular are in fact slim and I'd say very slim.
So you have to really know what you want and push to get that fit and demand remaking it if it's not up to your standard. Especially if you don't have the slim body type.
It's been mentioned here that Stockholm store might is better than Oslo or Copenhagen. I am from Stockholm and what I described above applies to it.
I wouldn't trust the "style experts" much either, but if you truly know what you want, your measurements and fit etc., you can get an amazing suit for your money at SS.

FYI, Norway has no physical SuitSupply stores. However, I think it would still be better to go to Stockholm if there was one. As much as I dread to admit it, Swedish men are better dressed than Norwegians on average.

What fabric would you recomemd for a custom suit if I wanted so,ethimg on the lighter side? Something that’s good for summer and for mild winter or autom? In blue or grey tones
For what climate? A tropical summer is quite different from an arctic one.
Going for too much versatility usually leaves you too hot in the summer, and too cold in other seasons.

In what settings will you be wearing it?
How formal or informal should it be for its intended use?
Do you intend on wearing the jacket or trousers as separates occasionally?
Do you like patterns or specific weaves?
Do you want a durable and robust fabric or a light luxurious one?
How much creasing are you okay with?
 

CWV

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I wouldn't trust the "style experts" much either, but if you truly know what you want, your measurements and fit etc., you can get an amazing suit for your money at SS.

FYI, Norway has no physical SuitSupply stores. However, I think it would still be better to go to Stockholm if there was one. As much as I dread to admit it, Swedish men are better dressed than Norwegians on average.


For what climate? A tropical summer is quite different from an arctic one.
Going for too much versatility usually leaves you too hot in the summer, and too cold in other seasons.

In what settings will you be wearing it?
How formal or informal should it be for its intended use?
Do you intend on wearing the jacket or trousers as separates occasionally?
Do you like patterns or specific weaves?
Do you want a durable and robust fabric or a light luxurious one?
How much creasing are you okay with?
Dry medirrean weather. Summers up to 33-34 C. Winters around 12-14 C, with mínimums around 0 C.
It’s fir law work place, but none can tell me anything due to my position. And in my country no one knows anything about proper dressing bc.
I don’t like much creasing.
I think the colors I gave are enough formality.
I don’t have predilection on weave or pattern.
I itefer fresher than hotter.
 

kubaba5

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Interesting discussion about mtm and ss stores. I mentioned in one of the comments that I am about to purchase a sportcoat in MTM and pater I am planning to buy a suit for my wedding via MTM. Actually in about 2 weeks, I will be in London and I already scheduled a meeting in SS store (there is none in my country). I want to take my measures in the store and later order a sportcoat as first mtm try from my country and probably somewhen in the begining of next year a whole suit.
Do tou have any opinions on service (custom made especially) in London? I scheduled my visit on Lime st. :)

Another question: still looking on all the options for this grey sportcoat - now I'm wondering about the side pockets - at first I was about to choose round patch, but I think I've seen today a sportcoat of my friend from Poszetka which had similiar to what SS offers as "tulip patch". What do you think about it? It seems to be even more "sartorial" ;)
 

A-Lawson

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Dry medirrean weather. Summers up to 33-34 C. Winters around 12-14 C, with mínimums around 0 C.
It’s fir law work place, but none can tell me anything due to my position. And in my country no one knows anything about proper dressing bc.
I don’t like much creasing.
I think the colors I gave are enough formality.
I don’t have predilection on weave or pattern.
I itefer fresher than hotter.
Color alone does not determine formality. A navy hopsack notch lapel sports jacket with patch pockets is not a formal garment as opposed to a finer worsted navy herringbone double breasted suit.

I think light fresco, or "tropical wool" as SuitSupply calls it will be better for you. They also have a few very lightweight herringbones from VBC that are actually from the Drapers Montecarlo bunch (previously Jackets and Solaire) in both greys and blues. The fabric code starts with 51.410/. They are not as crease-resistant as the frescos (for lightweight fabrics), but are less matte and have a nice sheen and a lot more depth in terms of a color and texture.

The tropical wools have an open weave so they will be more comfortable than twills/herringbones in temperatures above the 30s. However, light frescos will be too cold at 12-14 degrees C. You will not find a fabric that is comfortable from 33-34 to 0 degrees, and not even 33-34 to 12-14 degrees.
 

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