Suit quality - Oxxford, Canali, or Isaia?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by edmorel

For me, the change has been in very ugly fabrics in high super counts for the suits and jackets (plus less patch pocket offerings on the odd jackets) and the stitching not as nice (and more machine work) than in years past. My favorite jacket that I own is an Isaia cotton/silk jacket from about 3 years ago and I think the stitching/sewing on that is better than the more recent Isaia's I've seen.

Oxxford I feel is going in the opposite direction. Better fabric selection and more modern cuts, that navy Oxxford patch pocket sportsjacket that saks had last season was very nice.
Isaia's RTW suits fit me exceptionally well but their recent fabrics haven't appealed to me at all. I've bought several MTM but would rather get a RTW on discount every now and then.

 

[Taxler]

Originally Posted by edmorel

For me, the change has been in very ugly fabrics in high super counts for the suits and jackets (plus less patch pocket offerings on the odd jackets) and the stitching not as nice (and more machine work) than in years past. My favorite jacket that I own is an Isaia cotton/silk jacket from about 3 years ago and I think the stitching/sewing on that is better than the more recent Isaia's I've seen.

Oxxford I feel is going in the opposite direction. Better fabric selection and more modern cuts, that navy Oxxford patch pocket sportsjacket that saks had last season was very nice.

Don't the retailers specify what fabric/configuration they want to stock in RTW? Or, are these changes at the direction of Oxxford/Isaia?

 

[aportnoy]

If you've seen Isaia's latest print advertising, it resembles Tom Ford, Versace and D&G which, to Ed's point, seems to be an unfortunate directional shift.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by aportnoy

If you've seen Isaia's latest print advertising, it resembles Tom Ford, Versace and D&G which, to Ed's point, seems to be an unfortunate directional shift.
Thier stuff was awesome when it was under the Enrico Isaia label. The Gianluca was good in the beginning, but now it looks awful. If you want to get an idea of the Isaia look, just check out that video somebody posted awhile back.

 

[dcdapper]

Originally Posted by bdbb

Do you think the layperson in a professional setting is going to take notice of this and form a negative impression, or is it just us prissy styleforum people who would care?

Even among people who aren't style obsessed, as are many of us on the forum, large shoulder pads scream the 1980s.

 

[dcdapper]

Originally Posted by edmorel

For me, the change has been in very ugly fabrics in high super counts for the suits and jackets (plus less patch pocket offerings on the odd jackets) and the stitching not as nice (and more machine work) than in years past. My favorite jacket that I own is an Isaia cotton/silk jacket from about 3 years ago and I think the stitching/sewing on that is better than the more recent Isaia's I've seen.

Oxxford I feel is going in the opposite direction. Better fabric selection and more modern cuts, that navy Oxxford patch pocket sportsjacket that saks had last season was very nice.

I can't speak to the Isaia question, but I agree with you on Oxxford. The selection is greater now and the cuts more modern, without becoming fashion forward and, therefore, likely outdated in a few years.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Originally Posted by aportnoy

If you've seen Isaia's latest print advertising, it resembles Tom Ford, Versace and D&G which, to Ed's point, seems to be an unfortunate directional shift.

Which explains why they made mine 30.5 inches from the collar when I'm 6'2" (though I believe I've convinced them to recut the jacket). Their cut works very well for me, so I'm fine going through these hassles with them.

Oxxford has some very nice cuts for Louis.

 

[aportnoy]

Originally Posted by RunningBeagle

Which explains why they made mine 30.5 inches from the collar when I'm 6'2" (though I believe I've convinced them to recut the jacket). Their cut works very well for me, so I'm fine going through these hassles with them.

Oxxford has some very nice cuts for Louis.

I'm glad the MTM is working out!

Oxxford is really getting nice. The Radcliffe was good, but the Mason 2 is really spectacular. It's not trying to be Oxxford's take on Neapolitan tailoring.

 

[antirabbit]

So the mason is slim?
How does the Mason N2 compare to the Addison?

Is there only 1 mason?

 

[archetypal_yuppie]

Pretty stratospheric pricing on some Isaia stuff these days. Granted, it's mostly cashmere stuff that's way way up there (~$4K jacket), but it's still pretty mind-bottling for RTW.

I think their wool sportcoats are ~2.5-3K, still pretty cray cray. Nice stuff though.