Suit quality - Oxxford, Canali, or Isaia?

[bdbb]

I'm looking at suits from each of those thre that are fairly close to my measurements...I plan to buy one on ebay, take it to my tailor, and have him hack it up. Which of Oxxford, Canali, and Isaia is going to be the best suit?

My guess is Oxxford>>>>>>>>Isaia>>>>Canali

Is that correct?

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by bdbb

I'm looking at suits from each of those thre that are fairly close to my measurements...I plan to buy one on ebay, take it to my tailor, and have him hack it up. Which of Oxxford, Canali, and Isaia is going to be the best suit?

My guess is Oxxford>>>>>>>>Isaia>>>>Canali

Is that correct?

Your guess is correct but you don't mention that these three suits have very different cuts. A lot of the Oxxford on ebay is dowdy, their cut is rather boxy and baggy. Isaia is below Oxxford quality wise, but the cut is softer at the shoulders, slimmer through the waist with higher and slimmer sleeves, slimmer pants etc. I also believe that Isaia's quality has gone down a smidge in the last year or so. Canali is the least "quality" suit of the three, cut is between Oxxford and Isaia but will also be the cheapest of the three.

 

[bdbb]

The oxxford I was looking at actually seems to have OK shoulders and not that boxy of a cut. I have another Oxxford that is probably a much older suit so I knew to check the shoulders. The one I have almost looks like I'm strapping on football pads...I think it's badass but I'm not sure if it's an appropriate style. Any thoughts on that?

 

[cvac]

Pics?

 

[SuitingStyle]

Originally Posted by edmorel

I also believe that Isaia's quality has gone down a smidge in the last year or so. .

Ed, care to going into details?

Originally Posted by bdbb

The oxxford I was looking at actually seems to have OK shoulders and not that boxy of a cut. I have another Oxxford that is probably a much older suit so I knew to check the shoulders. The one I have almost looks like I'm strapping on football pads...I think it's badass but I'm not sure if it's an appropriate style. Any thoughts on that?

Maybe u are looking @ the Radcliff model, its the new/recent trimmer model

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by bdbb

The oxxford I was looking at actually seems to have OK shoulders and not that boxy of a cut. I have another Oxxford that is probably a much older suit so I knew to check the shoulders. The one I have almost looks like I'm strapping on football pads...I think it's badass but I'm not sure if it's an appropriate style. Any thoughts on that?

If you like the oxxford cut and how you look in it, there is no need to feel bad about it. At the end of the day you need to find what works for your tastes. Neapolitan (Isaia, Borrelli etc) is seemingly the default style on the forums but it does not work for everyone and it's popularity does not make it the "best" by any means. All that being said, football shoulder pads are very 1980's.

 

[bdbb]

Originally Posted by edmorel

All that being said, football shoulder pads are very 1980's.

Do you think the layperson in a professional setting is going to take notice of this and form a negative impression, or is it just us prissy styleforum people who would care?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by bdbb

Do you think the layperson in a professional setting is going to take notice of this and form a negative impression, or is it just us prissy styleforum people who would care?

I actually think theres a pretty popular stigma against big shoulder pads, even amongst those who aren't fashion-savvy.

 

[rssmsvc]

Ed and others are more versed on this but Oxxford does have all sorts of different models.
The mason N2 I think, and versions cut for other retailers have been less padded and slimmer.
I can look up the model but some of these have very light shoulder pads.

I have noticed a difference this past 2 seasons in Isaia fabrics , not bad or good but just different than
past items. I did notice that Oxxford this past 2 seasons at NM just seem a lot better. I don't know if that
is because a difference in fabrics or the buyer is asking for something else but they seem to feel better.

I wouldn't worry about the brand, try them and go with the one inside your budget and that fits best.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Originally Posted by bdbb

Do you think the layperson in a professional setting is going to take notice of this and form a negative impression, or is it just us prissy styleforum people who would care?

there is a good reason for it, it doesnt look all that great on many profiles.

 

[CodeRed]

With regard to Isaia, they may have been possibly "experimenting" with certain farbrics as of late, but I don't know that I would suggest that the actual contruction quality of the suits has decreased, so please elaborate..if possible. I usual find them to be a very good value for the $$, if found at a decent discount.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I actually think theres a pretty popular stigma against big shoulder pads, even amongst those who aren't fashion-savvy.
What rubbish!

 

[aportnoy]

+1 on Oxxford doing a better job with their cuts. I just picked up a Mason N2 suit in mid-blue nail head in a 2 button, peaked lapel model that is slim cut, soft shouldered and I wish they had more!

As for Isaia, I've seen a change re: more flamboyant fabrics, but not so much a dip in quality of construction. Though, I've always felts that Isaia made for smaller stores like Louis, Boston, Korshak and Scott Hill has had more handwork and better finishing that the stuff made for Neiman's and Saks.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Tomasso

What rubbish!

Err, you think most people like big shoulder pads these days?

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by CodeRed

With regard to Isaia, they may have been possibly "experimenting" with certain farbrics as of late, but I don't know that I would suggest that the actual contruction quality of the suits has decreased, so please elaborate..if possible. I usual find them to be a very good value for the $$, if found at a decent discount.

Originally Posted by aportnoy

+1 on Oxxford doing a better job with their cuts. I just picked up a Mason N2 suit in mid-blue nail head in a 2 button, peaked lapel model that is slim cut, soft shouldered and I wish they had more!

As for Isaia, I've seen a change re: more flamboyant fabrics, but not so much a dip in quality of construction. Though, I've always felts that Isaia made for smaller stores like Louis, Boston, Korshak and Scott Hill has had more handwork and better finishing that the stuff made for Neiman's and Saks.

For me, the change has been in very ugly fabrics in high super counts for the suits and jackets (plus less patch pocket offerings on the odd jackets) and the stitching not as nice (and more machine work) than in years past. My favorite jacket that I own is an Isaia cotton/silk jacket from about 3 years ago and I think the stitching/sewing on that is better than the more recent Isaia's I've seen.

Oxxford I feel is going in the opposite direction. Better fabric selection and more modern cuts, that navy Oxxford patch pocket sportsjacket that saks had last season was very nice.