Suit fit critique and tailor advice-four suits

[Mr_natural78]

Ok. I have been lurking here for weeks as this site comes up in my google searches. My name is Doug. I am new here and I rarely wear suits. But, life has changed and I find myself needing/wanting to wear them more. I thrifted a couple of suits I thought fit well and used those to for measurement guidelines. I used those measurements to score these suits on ebay.

First, a navy oxxford with surgeons cuffs. S180 wool.

Second is a charcoal Tom James with holland and sherry wool. S150. Surgeons cuffs. Needs let out some in the waist but dont know if there is enough fabric.

Third is a samuelsohn gable. S120.

Fourth is an old hickey freeman international club. Glen check. I think this is a sack suit because of the lack of darting on the front? I dont know the fabric type. There are no tags inside saying what it is. It feels courser and thicker than all my other suits. It feels very slightly fuzzy but kind of coarse. This was an early thrift that fit well enough and didnt even need the pants hemmed.

All of them have roll below the collar. What other areas should I Iook at and what should I ask a tailor? What are signs that I'm dealing with a good tailor? I've taken all of these to a local tailor and had the pants hemmed on three of them. He also took in the waist of the samuelsohn and the hickey freeman and let out the waist of the tom james. That is what I paid for anyway. My wife and I can tell no change in the jackets he was worked on. The tailor never brought up the collar roll. My wife and I noticed it after they came back from getting tailored. I think I need to look for another tailor. Thank you for any input on the fit of these suits and signs to look for when searching out another tailor. Where would the tom james need to be let out at? Side seems, center back seam? It feels like there is about 7/8 extra on each side of the seam on the back vent.

 

[Noblekostas]

Hello,

so the first observation I have regards the length of the jackets. I don't know if it is the angle of the taken pictures, but you look like you have shorter legs to me. How tall are you? You generally want a 50/50 proportion between your jacket length and your legs. It could be the angle of the camera if it is from up diagonally down.

1) The first suit fits alright. Sleeve length looks ok, the shoulders look a tad bunched up and not an entirely clean shoulder line but the sizing looks ok. There is no excess space in the joints between the sleeves and the shoulders. Pants seem slightly longer as it looks to bunch up a little in the back? Clean enough waist line, not tight and fine shape on the sides.

2) Ok on the shoulders, is very tight around the waist. Go to a tailor and let the sideseams out. 3-4cm should do it I think (if there is any fabric left). Sleeves could be very slightly shorter as I don't see any shirt cuff. Pants have a nicer clean break at least in the pictures.

3) Shoulders ok, but on your back you can see there is a lot of excess fabric from the arms down. Could maybe take in the seams a little. The sleeves look to be too long and also a bit too loose around the edge. Pants are borderline ok in length and look to be rather loose fit. You could taper them a little if you wish.

4) I like it the least. If you look at your shape in the waist, it looks very flat, straight and boxy. Ask the tailor to put some pins and show you how it would be if you took in the sideseams. He should do it in a half-moon shape. Pants once more seem a tad long for me and could use some tapering unless you like regular fit.

That's my tips/observations from working as a tailor/salesman in Suitsupply. Others with more experience might chime in. Sorry for grammar/editing, was on mobile.

Best,
Kostas

 

[Mr_natural78]

Thank you. I am a short man but the pictures do make me look even more so. My wife took them standing to close to me and angled down. All suits have been to a tailor. Suit 2 was supposed to be let out. When I picked it up he said that is all it can be let out. Suit 3 and 4 were supposed to be slimmed in the waist. The suits were pinned when I was wearing them. When I picked them up it seems that nothing was done to them. I have my doubts if suit 2 was even let out as the fit of it didn't change at all either. All 4 suits have collar roll that is contributing to the bumpy shoulder lines. I have a very short and fat neck for my size. I'm also looking for any advice on how to find a tailor and know that I'm talking to someone who can and will do the work this time. Especially with the collar roll.

 

[Noblekostas]

Thank you. I am a short man but the pictures do make me look even more so. My wife took them standing to close to me and angled down. All suits have been to a tailor. Suit 2 was supposed to be let out. When I picked it up he said that is all it can be let out. Suit 3 and 4 were supposed to be slimmed in the waist. The suits were pinned when I was wearing them. When I picked them up it seems that nothing was done to them. I have my doubts if suit 2 was even let out as the fit of it didn't change at all either. All 4 suits have collar roll that is contributing to the bumpy shoulder lines. I have a very short and fat neck for my size. I'm also looking for any advice on how to find a tailor and know that I'm talking to someone who can and will do the work this time. Especially with the collar roll.

Collars are hard to work with. I don't think he did much work honestly. I cannot advise you about a tailor Doug as I live in Sweden. Say where you live and maybe some other member can help you but also just ask around or google with some ratings. Off the top of my head. You definitely need to look for short versions of suits, I can't really tell from here but you look like something along the lines of a 44?

Good luck in your journey.

 

[Mr_natural78]

Yes. From what I have tried on, I am a 43 or 44. The samuelsohn suit is a short and the coat comes to mid crotch. The hickey freeman I dont know what size it is. It comes to about mid crotch. The other two are regulars and come to the bottom of my crotch.

I am located in St Joseph, Michigan. I am in Valparaiso, Indiana often. I would be willing to drive a fair amount to get things done right.

 

[Mr_natural78]

I have found the tailors suit fit thread. I will be retaking pictures per the instructions there and posting there. I apologize for this thread.

 

[breakaway01]

first and third suits fit decently. You have a prominent chest and so all of them are are a little tight across the chest, but for RTW this is about as good as you’re going to get. Second jacket is way too tight and I would return it if possible. The small roll at the base of the neck can be easily taken out—the collar is detached and a little fabric taken out at the top of the back, then the collar reattached.
Jacket sleeves are a little long.
I would not recommend tapering the trouser legs. The drape is good and slimming the legs will unbalance top vs bottom given your build.

 

[dauster]

My simple advice is to buy as many suits as possible of the 1st suit. Fit is pretty great for "thrifting".

Also, if not satisfied with his work why did your leave your tailor with your suits? Always insist on getting it fixed immediately and do not pay for it! I would do as much research as possible in regards to tailors before committing - maybe you have a high-end department store like Nordstrom or Saks nearby - they usually use a 3rd party tailor to make alterations. I am sure they will give you a name if you ask or call nicely.