St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[Coldfire3k3]

Gentlemen:

The "aniline" you're collectively referring to that we use is a semi-aniline, smoothed box calf. It is dyed through and has a more uniform coloration and appearance directly from the tannery. It will remain more uniform in coloration and appearance over time than some other tanned hides.

Our crust calfskin is hand-stained after clicking (not when the shoe is already made) and then finished once the shoe is made, allowing discretion in the dyeing and finishing that can't be achieved in an aniline or semi-aniline calfskin. Crust will patina more with time.

Chromexcel (CXL) is, no pun intended, a different animal, as it is first chrome tanned, then vegetable retanned, then hot stuffed via impregnation of hides with oils, waxes, and greases. It is better suited to very casual or "work" applications. Our REV is close to CXL and, due to the aforementioned similar impregnation, is not as breathable as something like our CRU or VNA, plus it has a decidedly casual appearance.

I would recommend reaching out to your preferred retailer for more information on our upper offerings or, of course, to us directly. @Coldfire3k3, for an upper without any grain you would be equally well served with either CRU or VNA, with the above caveats.

A lot of useful information here, thank you for that.

Just to clarify semi-aniline box calf leather is a chrome tanned, full-grain, aniline dyed calf leather with a protective coating (hence "semi-aniline"). Is this correct? What does smoothed refer to?

My research indicates that Weinheimer (Freudenberg) produces the best box calf. Does Saint Crispin's source their box calf from them?

 

[The J]

Here's a proper shot!

 

[benf]

For those of you that own both the Mod 633 (classic last - Russian Calf) and EG Dover (606 last -Doak) NST derbies, which shoe do you prefer and why?

https://www.saintcrispins.com/produ...rby-with-hand-stitched-apron/#&gid=null&pid=2

https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/dover-dark-oak-antique-calf-606-last.html

From the photos, the Russian Calf looks similar to EG’s Utah leather. Would someone be able to provide more information about RUS? Is it a hand stained or aniline Calf?

The other major difference I see is that the EG 606 is a square toe whilst the StC classic last is round.

I know the Dover is an iconic shoe but haven’t seen the StC IRL. Just got my first pair of StC and is open to getting another.

 

[VRaivio]

First pair of MTM Saint Crispin's shuus: dark brown aniline calf balmoral oxfords, Classic-last, natural welt top, white welt stitch, red lambskin lining. The fit is very good.

 

[kevinsvindland]

For those of you that own both the Mod 633 (classic last - Russian Calf) and EG Dover (606 last -Doak) NST derbies, which shoe do you prefer and why?

https://www.saintcrispins.com/produ...rby-with-hand-stitched-apron/#&gid=null&pid=2

https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/dover-dark-oak-antique-calf-606-last.html

From the photos, the Russian Calf looks similar to EG’s Utah leather. Would someone be able to provide more information about RUS? Is it a hand stained or aniline Calf?

The other major difference I see is that the EG 606 is a square toe whilst the StC classic last is round.

I know the Dover is an iconic shoe but haven’t seen the StC IRL. Just got my first pair of StC and is open to getting another.

Here are a few side by side shots to compare.

 

[tdes81]

Here are a few side by side shots to compare.

View attachment 973883 View attachment 973884 View attachment 973885 View attachment 973886

Damn, I have to say the St. Crispin's are quite a bit more attractive. Surprised how chunky the EGs are in comparison.

 

[Itsuo]

Two year old 633s at sun-down. Can’t get enough of them!

 

[VRaivio]

Damn, I have to say the St. Crispin's are quite a bit more attractive. Surprised how chunky the EGs are in comparison.

Chunky is the right word! I’m surprised as well. Perhaps some other lasts from EG, like the narrower 82, would serve this model better if it’s worn with smarter trousers instead of leisure cords or jeans.

 

[CanadaCal]

Personally I prefer the St. C split toe visually.

However. I concede EG’s always look better on foot then they do on display pictures

 

[benf]

View attachment 973994 Two year old 633s at sun-down. Can’t get enough of them!

What upper is that? Is it Russian calf? Do you find that it requires more maintenance in comparison to other leathers?

 

[benf]

Here are a few side by side shots to compare.

View attachment 973883 View attachment 973884 View attachment 973885 View attachment 973886

Thanks for the photos Kevin.

I agree with the others that the Saint Crispins 633 is sleeker and from the side, it looks better as a single piece of leather.

Didn’t expect to say so...but from the above I likes the Dover more mainly because I think the 606 last is better suited to the style. Most Saint Crispin’s I see (whether mto or rtw) are on the classic last. But for a derby style NST, the classic is a bit conservative IMO.

Decisions, decisions...

 

[kevinsvindland]

Thanks for the photos Kevin.

I agree with the others that the Saint Crispins 633 is sleeker and from the side, it looks better as a single piece of leather.

Didn’t expect to say so...but from the above I likes the Dover more mainly because I think the 606 last is better suited to the style. Most StC I see (whether mto or rtw) are on the classic last. But for a derby style NST, it takes away that ‘x’ factor.

Decisions, decisions...

I think they both look great. But in my opinion they are two completely different shoes.

The 606 is by far the nicest Looking last for the Dover.

The fun thing about StC though, is that they can pretty much make any shoe you like. I quite like this one from The Armoury.

 

[benf]

I think they both look great. But in my opinion they are two completely different shoes.

The 606 is by far the nicest Looking last for the Dover.

The fun thing about StC though, is that they can pretty much make any shoe you like. I quite like this one from The Armoury.
View attachment 974404

I have the G&G isham in kudu which has a smiling texture to the one above. And the MH71 last is a soft square toe not dissimilar to the 606.

I did a google search and most StC NST are in the classic last. Is there a StC last that’s similar to the 606/MH71?

 

[Itsuo]

What upper is that? Is it Russian calf? Do you find that it requires more maintenance in comparison to other leathers?

It is the Russian calf: it has different characteristics to the CRU or INC but it does not necessarily require more maintenance. I recommend it with the reminder that at the end of the day these are still shoes that we wear on our feet and occasionally show signs of wear and need attention to maintain their appearance.

 

[Coldfire3k3]

My feet are wide at the ball and narrower at the heel. Could someone recommend a specific last for me please?