St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[kevinsvindland]

I want to order a St. Crispin's MTO boot. I want a versatile boot that is above all else comfortable. It should breathe well and be suitable for some infrequent light off-road walking.

I notice that St. Crispin's offer the following materials in their MTO program. Perhaps someone could recommend one (or even better give a short overview of the strengths and weaknesses of each).

- Crust calf
- Aniline calf
- Mountain calf
- Inca calf
- Russian calf
- Reverso Juchtenleder

Reverso Juchtenleder (REV) combined with lug soles should be nice for some infrequent light off-road walking.
Maybe some norwegian stitching too, for a slightly rougher look.

Is there a specific model that you are considering?

 

[Coldfire3k3]

Reverso Juchtenleder (REV) combined with lug soles should be nice for some infrequent light off-road walking.
Maybe some norwegian stitching too, for a slightly rougher look.

Is there a specific model that you are considering?

That sounds very durable!

I'm looking at a Derby boot. Do you know if St. Crispin's Derby boots come with a gusseted tongue?

Could you tell me more about Reverso Juchtenleder? I only know that it is a vegetable tanned leather originally from Russia. Is it thick and warm? How breathable is it? Can it be shined up for use in more formal settings?

 

[VRaivio]

These are waiting for me in store —finally time to feel what all this talk of MTM Crispins is. I’ve seen some truly horrid creases on crust leather, so these are aniline calf.

 

[kevinsvindland]

That sounds very durable!

I'm looking at a Derby boot. Do you know if St. Crispin's Derby boots come with a gusseted tongue?

Could you tell me more about Reverso Juchtenleder? I only know that it is a vegetable tanned leather originally from Russia. Is it thick and warm? How breathable is it? Can it be shined up for use in more formal settings?

As far as I know, a gusseted tounge is not a standard feature, but could probably be arranged for MTOs.
I'd have to check with Mr. Carr.

The Reverso Juchtenleder is a rather heavy waxed leather, so probably not the best option for more formal and shiny looks.

Inca Calf (INC) or Scotch Grain (SCO) would be better for a more semi formal looking boot.
Inca being the lightest one, with a bit more subtle structure.

Something like this, from StCs site:
Mod. 403

 

[kevinsvindland]

View attachment 970050 These are waiting for me in store —finally time to feel what all this talk of MTM Crispins is. I’ve seen some truly horrid creases on crust leather, so these are aniline calf.

Nice choice!

I quite like the way crust leather creases, makes the shoe look aged and lived in.
Sometimes the creasing is due to some over enthusiastic wax polishing in the finishing department.

 

[Coldfire3k3]

Nice choice!

I quite like the way crust leather creases, makes the shoe look aged and lived in.
Sometimes the creasing is due to some over enthusiastic wax polishing in the finishing department.

Am I right in saying that aniline calf is low maintenance but crust calf can look better due to a richer patina?

Is the quality of leather used by St. Crispin's for both aniline calf and crust calf equivalent?

 

[VRaivio]

Is the quality of leather used by St. Crispin's for both aniline calf and crust calf equivalent?

I cannot say, really. Both look smooth and fine, both feel smooth and soft. It's just the amount of wrinkly worn crust pairs I've seen that deter me.

 

[kevinsvindland]

Am I right in saying that aniline calf is low maintenance but crust calf can look better due to a richer patina?

Is the quality of leather used by St. Crispin's for both aniline calf and crust calf equivalent?

With crust the leather is coloured with polish after she shoe is made.
This means that the colour and polish "hides" the pores more, and gives an even color. But the coloring might crease, and give more "worn" patina.
And with aniline the leather is pigment dyed, which means the pores in the leather is more visible.
(If that makes sense, english is not my primary language.)

With StC, I would not worry about the quality of the leather either way.

 

[thesartorialistbanker]

Saint Crispin’s model 202

 

[Coldfire3k3]

With crust the leather is coloured with polish after she shoe is made.
This means that the colour and polish "hides" the pores more, and gives an even color. But the coloring might crease, and give more "worn" patina.
And with aniline the leather is pigment dyed, which means the pores in the leather is more visible.
(If that makes sense, english is not my primary language.)

With StC, I would not worry about the quality of the leather either way.

Based on this and previous comments I'm leaning towards getting my boots in aniline calf. Does anyone know how it compares to chromexcel? Does it scuff easily?

 

[kevinsvindland]

Based on this and previous comments I'm leaning towards getting my boots in aniline calf. Does anyone know how it compares to chromexcel? Does it scuff easily?

Chromexcel is a type of aniline, produced by Horween Leather Company.
According to what I've read on the internet, it scuffs fairly easily, and the colours tend to rub off on textiles and fades easily when exposed to sunlight.
Chromexcel has a high grease and oil content, which requires little to no wax and polish. A brush goes a long way.

Personally when I think of Chromexcel, Red Wing boots come to mind.
I dont have much experience with it though, perhaps someone who has would care to chime in?

 

[GothamRed]

Gentlemen:

The "aniline" you're collectively referring to that we use is a semi-aniline, smoothed box calf. It is dyed through and has a more uniform coloration and appearance directly from the tannery. It will remain more uniform in coloration and appearance over time than some other tanned hides.

Our crust calfskin is hand-stained after clicking (not when the shoe is already made) and then finished once the shoe is made, allowing discretion in the dyeing and finishing that can't be achieved in an aniline or semi-aniline calfskin. Crust will patina more with time.

Chromexcel (CXL) is, no pun intended, a different animal, as it is first chrome tanned, then vegetable retanned, then hot stuffed via impregnation of hides with oils, waxes, and greases. It is better suited to very casual or "work" applications. Our REV is close to CXL and, due to the aforementioned similar impregnation, is not as breathable as something like our CRU or VNA, plus it has a decidedly casual appearance.

I would recommend reaching out to your preferred retailer for more information on our upper offerings or, of course, to us directly. @Coldfire3k3, for an upper without any grain you would be equally well served with either CRU or VNA, with the above caveats.

 

[ericgereghty]

@VRaivio such a handsome shoe. Is this the classic last?

 

[ygtyf]

Beautiful shoes gents. I had an opportunity to inspect all the shoes in Leather Soul Honolulu last week. The SCs definitely look to have more "soul" in them than the more expensive EG and JLs.

 

[VRaivio]

@VRaivio such a handsome shoe. Is this the classic last?

My thanks. Yes it is, with inserts to make the last wider on the pinky toes only. I wanted a model that would stand the test of time.