St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[chogall]

Thank you! Tom and I designed it by taking elements of the Dover and incorporating it into the JM Weston Chasse. We then added the Norwegian welt. I have a last at SC- not bespoke, but they took a standard last and modified it. Not sure what to call it. Anyhow, the shoe is available for special order at LS.
http://leathersoulhawaii.com/new-arrivals/

I know that SC does the made-to-order last adjusting program, but how do you derive the measurements/adjustments? Did you travel to Hawaii/LA to be measured/fitted?

SC can do no wood pegged soles?

They look truly amazing, especially the double row reverse welt stitching, and remind me of a pair of bespoke Delos boots posted somewhere online.

 

[fritzl]



p.s., Fritzl EG Dover sets a pretty high bar for NST

nope

 

[chogall]

nope

Well at least in the Anglo-American world of RTW shoes, Dover looks better than G&G Hove and JL Chambord in my opinion.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I know that SC does the made-to-order last adjusting program, but how do you derive the measurements/adjustments?  Did you travel to Hawaii/LA to be measured/fitted? 

Unfortunately, this was done primarily by trial-and-error. Tom knows my feet pretty well simply by what I've ordered in the past, and our similarly sized and shaped feet. He was therefore able to help me choose the correct adjustments to the custom last. Furthermore, the first couple pair of SCs purchased pre custom last were not perfect fits, but allowed us to make logical choices regarding alterations (I'll probably be selling these BTW). I'm sure there is a more straight-forward way to do this.

SC can do no wood pegged soles?

Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.

They look truly amazing, especially the double row reverse welt stitching, and remind me of a pair of bespoke Delos boots posted somewhere online.

Thanks!

 

[jerrybrowne]



nope

Up late, or up early again my friend. Insomnia?

 

[fritzl]



I have a last at SC- not bespoke, but they took a standard last and modified it. Not sure what to call it.

sounds awesome. how is the procedure? i can imagine that this generates some interested parties among the sf crowd.

imo, this is the advantage of flexible units like e.g. St. Crispins.

 

[fritzl]



Up late, or up early again my friend. Insomnia?

7 am is not insomnia

 

[fritzl]



Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.

why?

 

[bengal-stripe]



Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.

why?

Because those shoes are in Norwegian construction.

The top-row of stitching goes through upper leather and insole. The upper leather is then folded out (it doesn't go underneath). The second row of stitching goes through the folded-out upper leather into the middle sole. Then the upper leather is cut-off to form the step that is quite visible in the photograph. On the bottom of the step is a third row of stitching, which connects the middle- with the outer sole. (Although it is possible the second row goes through middle- and outer sole and there is no third row. Difficult to see in the picture.) So you have at least two (if not three) rows of stitching to connect upper to bottom.

The wood-pegged waist in St Crispin is in place of any stitching. The sole is stitched 'ball to ball' not 'breast to breast'. So the pegs are needed to provide a connection between sole and insole.

 

[Gdot]



Nice shoes, JB.
User "Posh" from www.newsaboutshoes.de once repaired a St. Crispin.
From

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

To

She documented the whole process and revealed some details that she wasn't very happy about quality-wise. Anyway, if you're interested, here's the thread: http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=804 Maybe Google translate helps, otherwise PM me and I'll help as much as possible.

Regarding the stitching of the welt to the outsole which Posh seems to take issue with you can clearly see the machine they use for this process in the following video.



In my opinion this does not diminish the quality of the final product one bit. They are still hand welted and that is the main point.

 

[edmorel]



was the heel made this way due to specific needs of your foot?

 

[b1os]



Regarding the stitching of the welt to the outsole which Posh seems to take issue with you can clearly see the machine they use for this process in the following video.

In my opinion this does not diminish the quality of the final product one bit. They are still hand welted and that is the main point.

This was just one of a few criticisms (mostly shortcuts used and some "carless mistakes"; and some misguiding phrasing on their website, esp. w/r/t the stitching). Anyway, I just posted the link so people can have a look at the "interior" of the shoe and form an opinion themselves, not to discredit St. C in any way.

 

[gusvs]



Great stuff guys. Love the captoe and medallion. that shoe is perfection, imo

I really dig the grain on these.

+1. They actually look Russian Reindeer-esque, just without the scoring.

+1. I can't get enough of that Inca calf.

A great choice!

Thanks guys!

was the heel made this way due to specific needs of your foot?

No (at least I did not ask for it). But they feel great!

 

[gusvs]



The fit is great- SCs have a ton of stability at the arch due to wood pegs they put in at that area. While this pair lacks the pegs, it remains very stable at the arch. I wouldn't consider myself someone who needs arch support, but for some reason the added stability makes SCs extremely comfortable. SCs are the most comfortable RTW shoes IMHO.

+1, totally agree. Great looking shoes by the way. I guess it is the classic last they used when adjusting for your foot?

 

[edmorel]



Thanks guys!
No (at least I did not ask for it). But they feel great!

but that forces inversion/supination in your foot and that could lead to some serious foot problems.