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stuffedsuperdud

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I'm still surprised at how well made the cooper collar shirt is. As critical as I can be of S&M, this feels astounding, and not just "for the money".

Hopefully the MTM fabrics get a proper update this year.

Wait what?! They can make the cooper collar now? I asked last year and they said that the template wouldn't be ready for a few months.

What is y'alls opinion on cotton suits? I was considering an MTO in beige, is it better to go with a fresco fabric instead for warm weather occasions?

I think cotton is pretty overrated for warm weather tailoring. The jacket feels stiff and your body will fight the shoulders and chest when you move. It also doesn't drape like wool, and sticks out from the body instead of hanging from it.

Temperature-wise, cotton actually wears much warmer than lightweight wools, fresco or otherwise. The misconception probably comes from comparing knit garments, in which case, yes, a heavy fluffy wool is much warmer than a cotton equivalent. For tailoring fabrics though, the cotton version seems to always be thicker and, more importantly, more tightly woven; both features retain more heat. Maybe 100 years ago when dry cleaning wasn't so good, cotton was favorable simply because it was easier to wash in a sweaty climate, but nowadays, that advantage is no longer relevant.

All that said, I do have a few cotton suits, which are useful for when you want that louche vibe, or when it's a situation where you know most people won't be wearing tailoring, but these are very specific uses; in general lightweight wool will give you a much more versatile and comfortable suit.
 
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FlyingHorker

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Wait what?! They can make the cooper collar now? I asked last year and they said that the template wouldn't be ready for a few months.
Yep, it's good to go.

 

anonymouz

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Do the contemporary neapolitan suit jacket and pants fit roughly the same as the normal cut? Folks who have experience would you say they're a tad smaller or bigger fitting?

IME they fit basically the same. I take the same size for Neo and non-Neo. No obvious difference in sizing besides a little bit more body length for the Neo. The shoulder's supposed to a tad wider but I don't find it noticeable.
 

ericgereghty

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LOL, nope. I wash every shirt after one wear, cotton or linen, year round. Nothing to do with wrinkles. Because...fragrance.
Wait, is this surprising lol? I’m curious how folks double (triple?!) up wearing linen shirts. I often make multiple uses of mine, but any wears after the first are always exceedingly casual. Could not begin to imagine wearing a linen shirt multiple times in a work setting...even in quarantine times.
 

mythage

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IME they fit basically the same. I take the same size for Neo and non-Neo. No obvious difference in sizing besides a little bit more body length for the Neo. The shoulder's supposed to a tad wider but I don't find it noticeable.

How much extra body length is there for the neo? The regular cut is perfect for me so I maybe I should go short for neo?
 

XxLogo

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Has anyone picked up the new lightweight chinos? Love the new regular chino fabric but i worry the lightweight will have that poly like feel.
I got 2 pairs, still feels like cotton, albeit slightly different, but definitely light weight compared to regular chinos
 

sid11111

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For the shirt sizes, I was a bit surprised by the sleeve length measures. I am typically a 16 collar, 33" sleeve length at Brooks Brothers in the Milano (slim fit). Looking at the SM website, the smallest collar of 14.5 has a 33.5" sleeve length. Can anyone give some guidance on what to order based on my Brooks Brothers shirt measurements? I was tempted to choose 15.5". Thanks!

What is so surprising? Order the size 16 in contemporary with a 33in sleeve. That is all.
 

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