SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

You missed my post. All good, what is coming in terms of new stock? Will you be producing more cotton dress pants? Button down dress shirts? etc

Cotton dress pants will be more for summer. We have cotton moleskin coming at the end of August/early Sept. More button down dress shirts in dress shirt fabrics are going into production soon, so those we should start seeing in early fall.

 

[afterthesuit]

Cheers gents, I'm a bit tied up today, so sorry for not being super active today. Great feedback on the albiate denim.

Rick, I don't think you need to apologize. You are more than accommodating with our questions, and if I can speak for the community, we really appreciate you seeking out our feedback and including us in these kinds of discussions.

 

[Claghorn]

Rick, I don't think you need to apologize. You are more than accommodating with our questions, and if I can speak for the community, we really appreciate you seeking out our feedback and including us in these kinds of discussions.

Quoted for emphasis.

 

[Burzan]

Rick, I don't think you need to apologize. You are more than accommodating with our questions, and if I can speak for the community, we really appreciate you seeking out our feedback and including us in these kinds of discussions.

100% this.

Speaking of that I forgot to give my feedback on the chinos.

First the good. Amazing colors, really loved them all in person. Only one I felt was a glaring omission would have been maybe a lighter normal khaki color just a hair warmer than say stone. The fabric you developed was quite nice, had a good weight and was soft, comfortable, and seemed to drape well in the time I had with them. Loved the upgrade in buttons, split waist, both very welcome.

Fit wise they did not work for me. If it was too much rise or if their was just too much of the hip measurement disproportionate in the front of the pant. It felt like way to much material at the front upper thigh and crotch so it was bunching like crazy on me even though the rest of the pant fit pretty well. I tried 32 contemporary and 33 slim and same issue with both.

I'd also say they leg opening was too large on both. Also, the almost 8" on the slim was not a good look. I think like the trousers the slim for sure needs to be taken down from just above the knee (bringing the knee in slightly too) to maybe 7.25" on a 32 and the down to 7.5" for the contemporary 32.

Lastly I prefer a button fly on chinos.

 

[rainmaker]

My own 2 cents - I have the navy in 34 contemporary and love them. I could take or leave Burzan's point about the leg opening being too wide, but I can't agree at all with him about the rise/hip measurement. It was not too big for me in those areas whatsoever. I'm a man with a fair bit of butt and butt-adjacent leg though.

100% this.

Speaking of that I forgot to give my feedback on the chinos.

First the good. Amazing colors, really loved them all in person. Only one I felt was a glaring omission would have been maybe a lighter normal khaki color just a hair warmer than say stone. The fabric you developed was quite nice, had a good weight and was soft, comfortable, and seemed to drape well in the time I had with them. Loved the upgrade in buttons, split waist, both very welcome.

Fit wise they did not work for me. If it was too much rise or if their was just too much of the hip measurement disproportionate in the front of the pant. It felt like way to much material at the front upper thigh and crotch so it was bunching like crazy on me even though the rest of the pant fit pretty well. I tried 32 contemporary and 33 slim and same issue with both.

I'd also say they leg opening was too large on both. Also, the almost 8" on the slim was not a good look. I think like the trousers the slim for sure needs to be taken down from just above the knee (bringing the knee in slightly too) to maybe 7.25" on a 32 and the down to 7.5" for the contemporary 32.

Lastly I prefer a button fly on chinos.

 

[Burzan]

My own 2 cents - I have the navy in 34 contemporary and love them. I could take or leave Burzan's point about the leg opening being too wide, but I can't agree at all with him about the rise/hip measurement. It was not too big for me in those areas whatsoever. I'm a man with a fair bit of butt and butt-adjacent leg though.

Got any pics? Don't think I have seen anyone post up wearing them yet.

I think the rise, hip, and seat all were fine and actually fit me pretty good in those areas on the 32 contemporary. What it seemed like was extra fabric in the front upper thigh and down around the crotch. I couldn't pinpoint what was going on, could be that they just didn't work for me, YMMV. On me they just looked too sloppy to keep.

You can see in this last pic, which was the 33 slim and too tight in the thigh, also showing how the leg opening gives that unsightly bell bottom look on the right leg with the wider opening.

 

[exfalso]

I think the rise, hip, and seat all were fine and actually fit me pretty good in those areas on the 32 contemporary. What it seemed like was extra fabric in the front upper thigh and down around the crotch. I couldn't pinpoint what was going on, could be that they just didn't work for me, YMMV. On me they just looked too sloppy to keep.

Spoiler: Quote

View attachment 810090

View attachment 810091


You can see in this last pic, which was the 33 slim and too tight in the thigh, also showing how the leg opening gives that unsightly bell bottom look on the right leg with the wider opening.

View attachment 810092

It is difficult to tell exactly from the photos, but I'd say the cut of the trousers doesn't work for you. The trousers, from what I can tell, are too tight overall, except in the hip area as you said. Maybe try 33 contemporary and get them tailored?

I've also never seem the "bell bottom" issue myself, and am rather surprised. Is it just that pair?

 

[Burzan]

Another suggestion for the chinos would be to make the waist size consistent with the trousers line. Unless a reason exists why they aren't the same.

A bigger closure button would be nice on the chinos and trousers.

It is difficult to tell exactly from the photos, but I'd say the cut of the trousers doesn't work for you. The trousers, from what I can tell, are too tight overall, except in the hip area as you said. Maybe try 33 contemporary and get them tailored?

I've also never seem the "bell bottom" issue myself, and am rather surprised. Is it just that pair?

Can't tailor (at least at a reasonable cost) to remove that extra crotch fabric I inquired because really wanted them to work, nor would I want to add that cost to a $50 chino. It just didn't work which is fine. The contemporary trousers fit me great with no issue so I'm looking forward to premium cotton trousers made in that cut from that factory.

I think the "bell bottom" thing is a visual anomaly that happens if the trouser pulls a little front to back from the calves and then opens back up toward the bottom. This wouldn't be a problem for someone wanting a full fit. If you like them sort of slim fitting the wider leg opening isn't great.

Ideal fit for me would be an athletic taper, that won't be for everyone obviously so tapering is standard procedure now for my tailor.

Epaulet Rivet chinos for reference. S&M madras for relevance. I though it was maybe the lower rise of the Epaulet that was better but the higher rise of the contemporary trousers look fine on me too. ¯¯\_(ツ)_/¯¯

 

[exfalso]

Another suggestion for the chinos would be to make the waist size consistent with the trousers line. Unless a reason exists why they aren't the same.

I believe this is intentional, since cotton doesn't stretch much.

I think the "bell bottom" thing is a visual anomaly that happens if the trouser pulls a little front to back from the calves and then opens back up toward the bottom. This wouldn't be a problem for someone wanting a full fit. If you like them sort of slim fitting the wider leg opening isn't great.

It makes sense; my legs are on the slimmer side, and even the contemporary fit trousers fall nice and slim on me. Given that, I still think your chino pants are borderline too tight. Sure, they are casual trousers, but I find the issue with leg opening all too exaggerated because of that.

 

[Burzan]

I believe this is intentional, since cotton doesn't stretch much.



It makes sense; my legs are on the slimmer side, and even the contemporary fit trousers fall nice and slim on me. Given that, I still think your chino pants are borderline too tight. Sure, they are casual trousers, but I find the issue with leg opening all too exaggerated because of that.

The pic of the SM chinos that are doing that are the 33 slim which were even tighter feeling than the Epaulet pairs I'm trying to replace for also being a bit too tight. So I agree with you there. The Epaulet pair in that pic are now too short for most shoes because my thighs/ass grew and now they pull up way higher.

I need a chino overhaul which is why I had high hopes for the latest round. It appears Rick will have some adjustments in store for another batch if he's asking for feedback so fingers crossed they work better for me.

If the premium cotton trousers were coming sooner I'd hold out but looks like I'll need something to get me by until next spring/summer.

 

[An Acute Style]

I'm sure some of you fellas have some pretty extensive S&M shirt collections. Here's 17 of mine (on the right) drying in the bathroom. 4 striped poplin, 4 striped OCBD, 4 solid OCBD, 2 linen/cotton, 2 linen, and 1 fun shirt. I have 5 or 6 more in the closet. The rest (on the left) are Brooks Brothers.

 

[JamesTu]

this is how my chino fits. 30 slim. It fits right below my belly button. I think the rise is spot on. I have no complains about the pants opening 7.6 for 30 slim is awesome!

 

[Burzan]

Hell of a collection Acute mine is similar but with a bunch of madras haha.

View attachment 810279
this is how my chino fits. 30 slim. It fits right below my belly button. I think the rise is spot on. I have no complains about the pants opening 7.6 for 30 slim is awesome!

Looks awesome on you! Thanks for sharing pics. I'm jealous. Personally that looks how I think the contemporary should look. It doesn't seem slim enough for a slim but that's all personal preference of course.

 

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]

I'm sure some of you fellas have some pretty extensive S&M shirt collections. Here's 17 of mine (on the right) drying in the bathroom. 4 striped poplin, 4 striped OCBD, 4 solid OCBD, 2 linen/cotton, 2 linen, and 1 fun shirt. I have 5 or 6 more in the closet. The rest (on the left) are Brooks Brothers.

Nice collection!

Do you wear ties often? I see a lot of striped shirts.

I'll have to start wearing a tie all the time, and was thinking of just getting more white and light blue shirts, and wear those all the time. Any tips on some versatile stripes, and what ties would go with them?

Is a wardrobe of white and blue shirts too boring?

 

[Pepetito]

Nice collection!

Do you wear ties often? I see a lot of striped shirts.

I'll have to start wearing a tie all the time, and was thinking of just getting more white and light blue shirts, and wear those all the time. Any tips on some versatile stripes, and what ties would go with them?

Is a wardrobe of white and blue shirts too boring?

I wear a tie at least four days a week and my dress shirts for ties are nothing but white, blue, or a combo of the two (stripes, checks, etc.)