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ericgereghty

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I am almost 100% certain the di Pray cloth on these upcoming Neo-cut suit separates is the same exact cloth as the one used for my Eidos “Lorenzo” cut jacket from 2014. I will likely even order the trousers—knowing full well a gap of 7 years means there is likely to be a difference in color—in case they do match well enough that I could make mine into a suit And go full farmer.

View attachment 1820124
Color doesn't do anything for me, but assuming it's the same makeup (or similar) to last year's Grey SC/Trews, highly recommend anybody who likes brown give it a try. It's awesome.
 

WarrenG

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I know there’s been no shortage of the neo-cut armhole discussion in this thread, but I’m a little lost as to where we’re currently at. I own half a dozen standard Spier suits and a couple of jackets and all fit well with minimal tailoring. The same is true of my FW 2019 neo cut suit. Then this past spring, I ordered a neo cut wool/linen blazer and there was no fixing it. I thought maybe it was a bit in my head from all the discussion on this board, but my tailor took one look at it on me and gave it an immediate thumbs down. The new cut seems to just come up way too high for my build.

My question is if there is any sort of confirmed timeline for when they made the shift to this much higher cut for the neo style-i.e. If looking at older sale stuff at what point does the cut jump up? And then secondly, when do we anticipate the supposed drop back down (as I understand it, not fully?), or has that already happened?
 

JTrent82

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I know there’s been no shortage of the neo-cut armhole discussion in this thread, but I’m a little lost as to where we’re currently at. I own half a dozen standard Spier suits and a couple of jackets and all fit well with minimal tailoring. The same is true of my FW 2019 neo cut suit. Then this past spring, I ordered a neo cut wool/linen blazer and there was no fixing it. I thought maybe it was a bit in my head from all the discussion on this board, but my tailor took one look at it on me and gave it an immediate thumbs down. The new cut seems to just come up way too high for my build.

My question is if there is any sort of confirmed timeline for when they made the shift to this much higher cut for the neo style-i.e. If looking at older sale stuff at what point does the cut jump up? And then secondly, when do we anticipate the supposed drop back down (as I understand it, not fully?), or has that already happened?
As I understand it, the entire FW21 catalog features the +2cm armhole, as well as some portion of the SS22 jackets. The armhole was lowered by 1cm sometime during SS22 production, and all FW22 jackets should feature this iteration of the armhole, as well as all MTO jackets. So jackets currently in production will be +1cm compared to pre FW21 and -1cm from the FW21 jackets.
 

TheLawBeard

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Re: the new new armhole. I’ll have to give it another chance with the FW releases just to be sure. I’ll be pretty sad if it turns out to be unworkable for me given some of the new releases they’ve teased.
 

Commonbloke

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It was much colder in Canada today which allowed me to wear one of my favorite (and I believe underrated) SM piece, the charcoal VBC covert. The picture is taken at the end of the day. The suit has been worn all day and is still mostly in great shape.

IMG_3284.jpeg
 

ericgereghty

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It was much colder in Canada today which allowed me to wear one of my favorite (and I believe underrated) SM piece, the charcoal VBC covert. The picture is taken at the end of the day. The suit has been worn all day and is still mostly in great shape.

View attachment 1820553
Killer suit. Really hoping SM leans into jetted pockets this FW.
 

JayDee90

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It was much colder in Canada today which allowed me to wear one of my favorite (and I believe underrated) SM piece, the charcoal VBC covert. The picture is taken at the end of the day. The suit has been worn all day and is still mostly in great shape.

View attachment 1820553
While I also love this suit, I do have to point out that it was 35+ in Toronto (and swampy) which is pretty normal for Toronto summers...just in case others think that Canada is a frigid block of ice 24/7/365...
 

Commonbloke

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While I also love this suit, I do have to point out that it was 35+ in Toronto (and swampy) which is pretty normal for Toronto summers...just in case others think that Canada is a frigid block of ice 24/7/365...

We went from a 40C heatwave on Saturday and Sunday to 15C today in Montreal.

Weird weather.
 

milktoast

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While I also love this suit, I do have to point out that it was 35+ in Toronto (and swampy) which is pretty normal for Toronto summers...just in case others think that Canada is a frigid block of ice 24/7/365...
Can attest to this -- visited Toronto during the summer of 2019 and the weather for the week was comparable to any major east-coast U.S. city. Unfortunately, because I'm a glutton for punishment and a creature of habit, it was one of the many reasons I enjoyed my time there (and the Spier store too...though the one in Toronto proper is gone now). Nonetheless, fantastic city, only a block of ice 3/4 of the year.
 

alkydrinker

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Adding to the convo a few comments back about modifications to the Neo cut, S&M posted the reply below in IG comments when someone asked if they lowered the gorge on the upcoming F/W Neo jackets:

No [we did not lower the gorge since last season]. We flattened the lapel to have a less negative belly. Makes the lapel look fuller and optically a bit lower.

Personally, I think the new lapels shown on the IG teasers are an improvement. I have never bought a Neo jacket bc they always looked a little too boldly italian dandy for my taste (classic ivy/Tailor Caid type look is my personal ideal). I read one ivy enthusiast describe the styleforum italian menswear aesthetic (which the S&M neo cut plays to IMO) as making men "look like a flower." That comment really resonated with me (no hate on anyone's preferences, I'm just trying to define and articulate my own preferences). But, I think removing the belly on the lapel removes a lot of the curvy, swoopy flower petal feel.
 
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