Some thoughts on Kiton

[tonylumpkin]

Originally Posted by MilanoStyle

Well, it's disappointing to know that Kiton suits are not as hand made as we thought they were. However, I think Kiton suits are one of the best (if not the best) suit I ever put on to this date. How can't anyone not like softness and lightness of Kiton suit?

None of this is of any import what so ever! Its the HOURS!! THE HOURS, I TELL YOU!!! Oh God why don't they see...ITS THE HOURS!!!!

 

[aportnoy]

The mighty Kiton PR machine has been exposed. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain with the sewing machine.

Ciro, Massimo and the Kiton Boutique staff take every opportunity to expound on the artisnal qualities of their product and yes, the truth does hurt. The Robb Report, Cigar Aficionado and their ilk have all swallowed the story hook, line and sinker. People who are spending exponentially more need to feel that they are somehow getting something exclusive, that sets them apart. Kiton was happy not to disabuse people of this notion regarding the "handmade" qualities of their garments.

The debate is not one of if this makes Kiton a better or worse garment, it is a brutally honest discourse on Kiton's blatant dishonesty in representing the amount of handwork in their garments and how their garments compare (most positively) to the best of the bespoke world.

This is just not true and no amount of wishing it so will change the facts.

 

[macuser3of5]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

I really had so much fun reading the three different threads.
...

It's common belief that any "handwork" is better than "machinework". This is perpetuated in all aspects of sales, from cars (Rolls Royce and Lamborghini are "handbuit"), shoes (Vass and JL Prestige has more "hand" finishing")...etc.
Man inherently like to be better than his neighbor, by driving a better car, living in a bigger house, having a prettier/younger wife .... and attiring himself in, say, Kiton, which, true or not, has achieved the mythical status of the "best RTW" Ergo, in my opinion, the need to constantly reassure himself that Kiton is the "best" RTW, with the most hours spent by hand, with the most hand-stitching. It's quite a letdown when the that bubble is burst by facts, or supposed facts. We'll see what Zegnamtl's photos show.
What he said. The cognitive dissonance displayed in this thread is quite hilarious. Good thing those 'authentic' suit makers don't exaggerate or deceive us through marketing, unlike those dastardly fashion labels.

 

[johnapril]

It requires a lot of will to take the mental leap from the marketing around an object to the object. One thing marketers do is exacerbate that distance and arrange seductions that compel you not to look further.

 

[MilanoStyle]

I think I expected Kiton's suits to be at least 90% hand made. It is true that some sales people have told me that Kiton suits are entirely hand made. But my expectation came from it's retail price. I always thought that if a suit costs $7K - 9K CAD, it had to be hand made, which is now proven to be rather sterotypical assumption.

So, aside from quality of fabric, does anyone object Gianluca Isaia suits are no worse made suits than Kiton suits?

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

I really had so much fun reading the three different threads. I do not own any Kiton, but do have a few Brioni's, Oxxfords, St. Andrew-made jackets/suits in my closet. I like them all for what they are: finely made garments in exquisite fabric, but most importantly, that they flatter my look. I really do not care how much "handwork" goes into each garment. My St. Andrew has hand sewn collar, some of my Brioni's don't, but some do. It has become very apparent, at least to me, that there is now a disconnect, on the part of some, from what the purpose of the suit/jacket is supposed to be. So much emphasis has been placed on actual "hand" work (needle/thread works by actual tailor hand) that it's quite laughable. It's common belief that any "handwork" is better than "machinework". This is perpetuated in all aspects of sales, from cars (Rolls Royce and Lamborghini are "handbuit"), shoes (Vass and JL Prestige has more "hand" finishing")...etc. Man inherently like to be better than his neighbor, by driving a better car, living in a bigger house, having a prettier/younger wife .... and attiring himself in, say, Kiton, which, true or not, has achieved the mythical status of the "best RTW" Ergo, in my opinion, the need to constantly reassure himself that Kiton is the "best" RTW, with the most hours spent by hand, with the most hand-stitching. It's quite a letdown when the that bubble is burst by facts, or supposed facts. We'll see what Zegnamtl's photos show.
Rolls Royce cars actually did used to have a lot of hand-work in places that didn't necessarily require it. I don't know if they still do, but certainly up into the '70s they did. That large radiator was entirely hand-polished for something like 40 hours and the forger who made it embossed his initials on the inside. They claimed to use antique Chinese methods to cast the Spirit emblem.

 

[Dragon]

Originally Posted by MilanoStyle

I think I expected Kiton's suits to be at least 90% hand made. It is true that some sales people have told me that Kiton suits are entirely hand made. But my expectation came from it's retail price. I always thought that if a suit costs $7K - 9K CAD, it had to be hand made, which is now proven to be rather sterotypical assumption.

So, aside from quality of fabric, does anyone object Gianluca Isaia suits are no worse made suits than Kiton suits?

That`s what I thought too (that they were made like 90% by hand and 10% or so by machine).

On the other hand, Isaia and some 2nd tier brands openly say that most work is done by machine and the attachments, buttonholes and such are done by hand (more like 10% hand 90% machine), and this is the reason for the lower prices.

The recent insight shows that both Kiton class jackets and lower class (like Isaia, Sartorio, etc.) are made pretty much in the same fashion. The only difference is that you are paying a premium for better fabric and the name.

Small print disclaimer - those percentages are just rough examples. I have no idea of the actual percentage breakdown.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by LabelKing

Rolls Royce cars actually did used to have a lot of hand-work in places that didn't necessarily require it.

I don't know if they still do, but certainly up into the '70s they did. That large radiator was entirely hand-polished for something like 40 hours and the forger who made it embossed his initials on the inside. They claimed to use antique Chinese methods to cast the Spirit emblem.

Yeah, their clients use ancient Chinese methods for the 24" chrome spinners too, yo

*sigh

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

Yeah, their clients use ancient Chinese methods for the 24" chrome spinners too, yo

*sigh

Made in Taiwan.