Should I?

[paul6001]

Uh...you're wrong.

Also, if you are 58, this is pretty funny.

As a 35 year old, I wear plenty of slacks with a crease.

To an Applebee's in Des Moines?

I'm sorry. That wasn't nice. I'm not that much of a New York snob, My kids, on the other hand, who were born here, are beyond help. "That's why people around the world hate New Yorkers," I once told my 15-year old son after a particularly provincial remark. I believe about whether Rochester, my hometown, was a city.

 

[paul6001]

That's Attolini the cutter at Rubinacci, not Attolini the brand.

No, that's Cesare Attolini, who was actually working at Kiton (or maybe Isiaia) at the time.

 

[ValidusLA]

To an Applebee's in Des Moines?

I'm sorry. That wasn't nice. I'm not that much of a New York snob, My kids, on the other hand, who were born here, are beyond help. "That's why people around the world hate New Yorkers," I once told my 15-year old son after a particularly provincial remark. I believe about whether Rochester, my hometown, was a city.

Did who buys used clothing and brags about it being bespoke just try to poor shame me without knowing anything about my lifestyle?

 

[paul6001]

And with that, my friends and admirers, I've got to get off. this site. I've got a life to live.

 

[paul6001]

Did who buys used clothing and brags about it being bespoke just try to poor shame me without knowing anything about my lifestyle?

I apologized.

 

[yorkshire pud]

Attolini invented the Neapolitan suit. The whole point of which is to break with the reigning English tailoring of the time.

Never heard of him, we don't really have the weather for Neapolitan ice cream never mind the clothes in the UK ?

 

[paul6001]

Except to say that if you haven't heard it (as I hadn't until recently) listen to "The Sinking Of The Titanic" by Gavin Bryars. Brilliant. Moving. I don't have the adjectives.

 

[dieworkwear]

No, that's Cesare Attolini, who was actually working at Kiton (or maybe Isiaia) at the time.

You have your history mixed up.

The person who's credited with "inventing" Neapolitan tailoring is a man named Vincenzo Attolini, who was a cutter at Rubinacci around the early 20th century. At the time, Rubinacci was run by someone named Gennaro Rubinacci, who originally called his company London House after the city he admired most. Vincenzo took his tailoring techniques from Domenico Caraceni, who had written a book about soft tailoring. Caraceni is based in Rome. But when Vincenzo followed some of the cutting and construction methods, he reshaped Neapolitan style. Gennaro was well connected to the city's aristocrats and his store became a popular place to hang out. Soon, other tailors started copying Vincenzo/ Rubinacci's style. There are still tailors who follow various cutting methods, including pagoda shoulder constructions. But many take after the soft, semi-drape-esque, Caraceni-esque pattern developed during Gennaro and Vincenzo's time.

Vincenzo's family later used his name to start a brand, but the people associated with that brand had nothing to do with the actual work at Rubinacci. They came long after that period.

There is no such thing as "Neapolitan sleeve length." It's not in the Attolini lookbook you posted, or in the original Rubinacci house stye. Just Google "Mariano Rubinacci." There are also some photos of Gennaro in the Rubinacci vanity book.

 

[ValidusLA]

This guy is giving me serious "oxfords for my country club" vibe.

If it isn't the barker under a pseudonym, maybe he'll stick around and run for most ardently vexatious member.

 

[ter1413]

(And I'm part of a fairly hip NYC scene.)

I live in NYC...and anyone wearing what you posted in that photo isn't considered ANYTHING close to hip.

Anyone having to state that a jacket is "bespoke" when it was not made for them, drop the tailor name and note that it is cashmere...certainly isn't hip. In nYc...we call that lame.

But then....I guess you and your friends have a different definition of "hip"!

 

[DapperPhilly]

What an entertaining thread I happened upon.
I am delighted to have discovered pant creases are apparently no longer de rigueur, at least in NY.
I will have a lot less ironing to do.

Just threw out all my pleated trousers.

 

[paul6001]

Sorry, you thought you were free of me, but I have to respond to people who need an education.

“Before building his own label, Cesare Attolini was employed developing suit silhouettes for the house of Enrico Isaia — renowned for its embrace of colour and bold pattern, and the signature ‘lucky’ red coral lapel decoration — which under Attolini’s influence, adopted the Neapolitan System at its workshop in the town of Casalnuovo.”

The History and Anatomy of Neapolitan Tailoring

The Rake uncovers the provenance, qualities and key players in Neapolitan tailoring.

therake.com

But that same article says that he worked for Rubinacci as well. That article says that Rubinacci told Attolini to make a “chimera” of English tailoring. It was at Isaia that he made the big break.

I guess he worked at both places. Probably not uncommon in the relatively small town of Casalnuevo, the “City of Tailors,” just outside Naples.

Afterwards, Attolini started his own company which is currently run by his grandsons. Or at least by two guys named “Attolini,” who claim to be related.

But I’m not ready to go to the wall on this issue. I have no particular expertise in the history of Italian tailoring.

As to the sleeves, “The Neapolitan sleeve is usually shorter than that found on other jackets, as Neapolitans love their shirt cuffs to peek right above their wrists, especially when adorned with elegant cufflinks. The sleeves are cut closer to the arms, in order to avoid extra fabric hanging when these are raised.”

Guide to the Infamous Neapolitan Jacket | Hariom's Tailor

In the last few years, the Neapolitan Jacket has grown in popularity among menswear aficionados who appreciate the art of fine tailoring.

hariomstailor.com

Now I’m really done. No more. I’m blocking this site.

 

[dieworkwear]

And with that, my friends and admirers, I've got to get off. this site. I've got a life to live.

Sorry, you thought you were free of me, but I have to respond to people who need an education.

 

[maxalex]

I remember people like the OP when I lived in NY. Usually it’s the younger dudes who know everything but apparently this fellow is a late bloomer.

As it happens I will be in Naples tomorrow for two days of work. After putting my Rolex in the hotel safe I will head straight over to the Chiaia and attempt to settle this matter.

 

[DapperPhilly]

I remember people like the OP when I lived in NY. Usually it’s the younger dudes who know everything but apparently this fellow is a late bloomer.

As it happens I will be in Naples tomorrow for two days of work. After putting my Rolex in the hotel safe I will head straight over to the Chiaia and attempt to settle this matter.

I spent the last day and a half ironing all the creases out of my dress pants.