Shortening shirt sleeves

[spidercan]

I know this has been asked before but there's just some things I need to get clarified. I just bought a shirt that will need between 1 and 2 inches taken off the sleeves.
Should I get it shortened from the shoulder or the cuff?
Also I have heard both that shirt sleeve shortening can be done by a drycleaner, and that it's so complicated only a shirtmaker can do a god job. What is true?
Finally, can anybody recommend a good tailor/drycleaner/shirtmaker for the job in San Francisco? Thanks for the help!

 

[mdg137]

Its easy to shorten from the cuff.

If necessary, the entire placket can be removed and reattached. I often have this done on shirts.

 

[deveandepot1]

Originally Posted by mdg137

Its easy to shorten from the cuff.

If necessary, the entire placket can be removed and reattached. I often have this done on shirts.

I would much prefer to have it shortened from the shoulder.
It would probably be much cheaper to have it shortened from the cuff.

 

[spidercan]

I am just wondering, would 2 inches be too much to shorten from the shoulder due to the fact that the sleeves taper?

 

[Gran Torino]

I have done the opossite on my Borrellis.

 

[Chips]

I wouldn't think it would be cheaper to do it from the cuff, since the placket would also have to be moved.

Just before I made a new years resolution to stop buying OTR dress shirts, I picked up a sweet looking Kiton that fits perfectly in all regards except the sleeves are about 3/4 an inch too long, maybe more. I hate the thought of taking it to a tailor who is going to use a machine to shorten them, when, from what I understand, looks like a lot of hand finishing.

 

[The Louche]

^

How much do you usually pay for this? I need this done on a few shirts.

 

[The Louche]

Damnit, what should I pay for this?

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

Originally Posted by The Louche

Damnit, what should I pay for this?

I talked to a seamstress awhile ago that said she would do it for $20. I had my tailor do it a year ago and he charged about $30 if I recall. (CDN)

 

[Doc4]

Quick, give the man an answer before he swears more.

 

[Nogginn]

Originally Posted by scohrdarkshadow

I know this has been asked before but there's just some things I need to get clarified. I just bought a shirt that will need between 1 and 2 inches taken off the sleeves.
Should I get it shortened from the shoulder or the cuff?
Also I have heard both that shirt sleeve shortening can be done by a drycleaner, and that it's so complicated only a shirtmaker can do a god job. What is true?
Finally, can anybody recommend a good tailor/drycleaner/shirtmaker for the job in San Francisco? Thanks for the help!

Wouldn't it just be easier to buy the right length to begin with?

 

[southbound35]

It can be done either at the cuff or at the shoulder.

However, if you are removing 2" or more, you must keep in mind that (as you mentioned) the sleeve tapers. Therefore, the circumference of the sleeve at the shoulder is a good bit larger than it is 2" from the shoulder. As a result, it might be rather difficult to make the smaller sleeve fit into the larger hole at the shoulder. If there is room to take in fabric from the sides of the shirt, thereby creating a smaller armhole, it would be possible. But, if the shirt fits well through the body, I suspect it would be very difficult to shorten by 2" from the shoulder.

 

[The Louche]

Thanks for chiming in. I'm actually very happy to report that the shirts in question are Hemrajani and Joe has offered to alter them for me. I was sent a tester shirt, but for some reason didn't notice that the sleeves were too long until well after the tester was worn, laundered, and deemed good enough to authorize the remainder of the order.

MyTailor will be getting my business for a good while to come.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by Nogginn

Wouldn't it just be easier to buy the right length to begin with?

No OTR shirt is going to have sleeves which are exactly the right length.

Originally Posted by deveandepot1

I would much prefer to have it shortened from the shoulder. It would probably be much cheaper to have it shortened from the cuff.
Shortening from the shoulder is pointless and not a good idea. For a start, the sleeve/body seam is usually sewn before the side and sleeve seams which are sewn together in one go, which means that to get the same finish you would need to open at least part of these seams either side before reattaching the sleeve then closing them again. Also, since the sleeve tapers from the shoulder down, cutting length off the top means your sleeve-head is now smaller than it was before, and subsequently you need to make your arm-hole smaller for it to fit properly; the the only way to just make the arm-hole smaller without affecting anything else requires extra fabric that is not there which means you would need to resort to bringing in the side-seam to make it smaller, which then also makes the chest measurement smaller which is most probably not what you want. You might be able to fudge the sleeve-head larger by increasing the height of the sleeve-cap, but again that has more unintended consequences for the fit. I can't imagine many scenarios where shortening from the cuff would not be a much better and cheaper procedure; even if the amount removed means removal and replacement of the placket is necessary it may cost a bit more but would still be the better option.

 

[KObalto]

We have a new "Style Guru" already? My head is spinning.