Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

[add911_11]



Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?

If the assessment is based on their retail price with VAT, the calf skin they use are very refine, the heel treatment is one of the best for RTW (still far from bespoke), and the sleek last that is rather similar to the U last from Vass, but slightly narrower in the ball area. The AC range is also 9.5 handmade MTO, with the welt only machine stitched.

Overall, value is in the eye of beholder, but I do think the price does reflect its quality, in comparison I am not a fan of G&G deco, in the same sort of price range.

 

[nutcracker]



If the assessment is based on their retail price with VAT, the calf skin they use are very refine, the heel treatment is one of the best for RTW (still far from bespoke), and the sleek last that is rather similar to the U last from Vass, but slightly narrower in the ball area. The AC range is also 9.5 handmade MTO, with the welt only machine stitched.

Overall, value is in the eye of beholder, but I do think the price does reflect its quality, in comparison I am not a fan of G&G deco, in the same sort of price range.

Yeah I guess those fancy shoe trees are also included in the price.

Is the AC last based on an actual Anthony Cleverley design from the past? I recall Aubercy having some models based on old Anthony shoes.

 

[j ingevaldsson]



AFAIK EG does AC for GC

But who are these Turks you speak of regarding AS?

Alfred Sargent is owned by some guys from Turkey, who took over after the last bankruptcy. Still Paul Sargent, Chay Cooper and co that run things though, just different owners.

Interesting. Considering that C&J makes them, how much of the AC price tag do you think comes from using higher quality leather?

AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.

 

[add911_11]



Yeah I guess those fancy shoe trees are also included in the price.

Is the AC last based on an actual Anthony Cleverley design from the past? I recall Aubercy having some models based on old Anthony shoes.

I am pretty sure they are based on the bespoke models, the shape looks very similar to my chisel toe GC bespoke models.

Alfred Sargent is owned by some guys from Turkey, who took over after the last bankruptcy. Still Paul Sargent, Chay Cooper and co that run things though, just different owners.
AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[nutcracker]



AFAIK the majority of the work on the AC shoes are made in the C&J factory, but with more handwork (as Add911_11 mentions) than on C&J handgrade and with superior materials, and a slower process with high focus on details. Cleverley people is also supervising the process and all shoes go through the cleverly workshop for finish and inspection.

I can easily see C&J doing something similar (high end RTW) with their very own Dmitri supervising and inspecting...but as you implied earlier, C&J seems quite happy with how things are going right now....

 

[claes500]

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!

From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

 

[add911_11]



I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

Woo, that is a very good starter collection.

 

[gyasih]

^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.

 

[rikod]



^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.

+1, starter collection of AC,GG, EG and lobbs

 

[add911_11]



^^starter collection? Damn, I hate to see how you'd categorize my shoes. I would love to see your collection.

Haha! my collection is properly not as nice as OPs. I haven't finish with my basic needs yet.

Gyasih, your collection will be undoubtably better. I am only a small timer here.

I guess a 11 shoe wardrobe is only starter for any dissenting gentlemen, be it all AE or all F&S bespoke.

 

[j ingevaldsson]



I can easily see C&J doing something similar (high end RTW) with their very own Dmitri supervising and inspecting...but as you implied earlier, C&J seems quite happy with how things are going right now....

Absolutely. And I think they would like to, they just can't with the way things are right now.

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!

From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

Really nice collection! I was actually just thinking about that when you posted your Anthony cleverley-shoes, that I would like to see the full collection of yours. When one has been hanging around the shoe threads here for a while one has learned that you picked up some nice goodies. Up with the Vass and C&J:s now as well!

 

[claes500]



Haha! my collection is properly not as nice as OPs. I haven't finish with my basic needs yet.

Gyasih, your collection will be undoubtably better. I am only a small timer here.

I guess a 11 shoe wardrobe is only starter for any dissenting gentlemen, be it all AE or all F&S bespoke.

I am somewhat of a starter since I feel I just begun wearing really great shoes (2.5 years) but I have 9 more shoes that I will post soon (4 Vass, 4 C&Js and one Carmina) I wonder how it will look in another 2.5 years (my wallet will look even worse )

Absolutely. And I think they would like to, they just can't with the way things are right now.
Really nice collection! I was actually just thinking about that when you posted your Anthony cleverley-shoes, that I would like to see the full collection of yours. When one has been hanging around the shoe threads here for a while one has learned that you picked up some nice goodies. Up with the Vass and C&J:s now as well!

Thank you Ingevaldsson! I will post my Vass and CJs and a Carmina as well soon (my GF thinks I am a mad man when I arrange my shoes on the floor so I will try when she's not around )

 

[isshinryu101]



(my GF thinks I am a mad man when I arrange my shoes on the floor so I will try when she's not around )

This is +10000. Imagine what happens when she's your wife!

 

[isshinryu101]



I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!

From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

ALways enjoy group shots. THANKS!

 

[Pembers]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I thought it was time for a group photo of some of my shoes!

From top L to R

Anthony Cleverley Bodie in Bourbon Calf, G&G Deco Bowlly in Midnight Blue, G&G Deco Holden in Deco Black, John Lobb Paris Philip II in misty calf, G&G Westbury in Racing Green on TG73, Edward Green Shannon III on last 82 in Cloud Antique

Bottom L to R

G&G St James II on TG73 in Vintage Cherry, G&G Connought on TG73 in Vintage Oak, G&G Oakham on MH71 in Vintage Rioja, G6G Hove in Chestnut Hatch Grain on TG73 and finally G&G Canterbury on DG70 in Burgundy cordovan

I also have 4 Vass and 4 C&Js so more coming up!

Nice collection - thanks for posting.

What about suede?