S.E.H Kelly

[swift.lion3933]

The cloth for the duffle this year is not as heavy as previous. It's actually the same cloth we use for the peacoat and greatcoat, unlike the usual blanket-like duffle cloth we've used in years gone by. It's thus a little bit more practical; more wearable for not only the coldest weeks of the year.

When you referring to "previous" are you talking about last year's Herdwick tweed? Or prior iterations of the Duffle?

 

[PrinceRupert]

Hi Paul.

I've just found your brand, and really like what you do. I've ordered a shirt, and am eyeing up a trench in sand. I wanted to check on fit: I tend to wear a 42R jacket and when measured have a 42" chest, though I do sometimes find 42R jackets can be a little narrow across the shoulders/back and have a broader waist/hips than the traditional 6" smaller - just measured 39" waist and 41" hips, and I am approx 5' 11.5" If you assume I'll be wearing the trench over a suit or knitted jumper during the winter, should I size up to XL?

My office is a very short walk from your workshop, but it sounds like there is rarely anyone around for coming in to try things on? If I ordered online but decided I wanted a different size, is there a way to return the item to the workshop?

cheers

 

[sehkelly]

I've just found your brand, and really like what you do. I've ordered a shirt, and am eyeing up a trench in sand. I wanted to check on fit: I tend to wear a 42R jacket and when measured have a 42" chest, though I do sometimes find 42R jackets can be a little narrow across the shoulders/back and have a broader waist/hips than the traditional 6" smaller - just measured 39" waist and 41" hips, and I am approx 5' 11.5" If you assume I'll be wearing the trench over a suit or knitted jumper during the winter, should I size up to XL?

My office is a very short walk from your workshop, but it sounds like there is rarely anyone around for coming in to try things on? If I ordered online but decided I wanted a different size, is there a way to return the item to the workshop?

Thank you for discovering my company and showing interest in what we do!

The trench coat is sized as an overcoat, to fit comfortably over, say, a business suit, or a shirt and mid-weight sweater. Thus your true size, and surely the best place to start, is size L, given that you have a chest of 42 and that corresponds perfectly with our L.

However, if you prefer a looser look, or just feel more at home with a more relaxed fit, then size XL will work well, too. The trench has a one-piece raglan sleeve which drapes smoothly over the lines of the wearer no matter the shape and size of their, um, lines (I mean shoulder) and because it has a belt, can be pulled together such that the size label is more moot than with most other styles of coat.

I also happen to think trenches and similar raglan coats are more than a-okay when sized up, so you'd be on safe ground in terms of how the size XL would look. It really just depends on your most frequent or likely layering requirements, and / or your personal style and comfort preference.

As for trying things on, alas, the workshop has fallen into disuse, at least from a "welcoming customers" standpoint, and isn't open to the public. It will be, one day, I hope, but it isn't on the cards any time soon: I need to put a plan together, and since I spend all day every day with my head in coats, so to speak, I haven't had the time or headspace to have a good run at it.

Thanks again for choosing our brand: I'll have the shirt en route in the next few hours.

 

[sehkelly]

When you referring to "previous" are you talking about last year's Herdwick tweed? Or prior iterations of the Duffle?

Both — the Herdwick was a similar thickness, though not as heavy, as what we've used in the past for the duffle coat, which was a very thick, heavy worsted-spun twill (and on one occasion, a hopsack).

 

[PrinceRupert]

Thank you for the quick response. You in fact posted the shirt last week (think I ordered it on Thursday) - it was meant to arrive via DHL Express yesterday, but at 1802 (no doubt just after the driver's shift finished) I got an email saying "sorry, we missed you" despite them not trying to deliver (was in, have cameras). When I spoke to them, they said this is the only option available to the driver if they failed to finish their delivery round, but my suspicion is it is to avoid it being their fault on their statistics etc (given you as the shipper pays for a next-day delivery option that they fail to meet). Just FYI, doesn't bother me THAT much (except I was at home yesterday and not home today...) - not sure if you ship enough to care to complain to them but I do feel if you pay for a premium, quick service you should get it!

 

[PrinceRupert]

Sorry, one more question on the trench. How soft/flowy is the material? I like the look of a trench that cinches through the waist (a la classic Burberry) and in the pics on the website the material looks quite firm/stiff.

Thanks!

 

[sehkelly]

Thank you for the quick response. You in fact posted the shirt last week (think I ordered it on Thursday) - it was meant to arrive via DHL Express yesterday, but at 1802 (no doubt just after the driver's shift finished) I got an email saying "sorry, we missed you" despite them not trying to deliver (was in, have cameras). When I spoke to them, they said this is the only option available to the driver if they failed to finish their delivery round, but my suspicion is it is to avoid it being their fault on their statistics etc (given you as the shipper pays for a next-day delivery option that they fail to meet). Just FYI, doesn't bother me THAT much (except I was at home yesterday and not home today...) - not sure if you ship enough to care to complain to them but I do feel if you pay for a premium, quick service you should get it!

Thanks very much for sharing that experience. I'm sorry to hear about the delivery issue.

Ordinarily, DHL are outstanding, and deliver to most places in the world within 1-2 working days, fully tracked and without a hitch. I have very few problems with them: barely one in a thousand, I should think, so you must have been very unlucky.

But I completely understand your frustration, and I'm sorry for the inconvenience. I'll pass along your words to our contact at DHL to ensure they are aware of what happened. While I don't have direct control over what happens when the parcel is picked up, I do want to ensure every customer receives a high level of service and feels confident in their experience.

I also wanted to clarify that the shipping part of your order was (and always has been, for everyone) completely free of charge, so you are not paying for a premium service in this regard. But you are correct that the service we use with DHL is the most fast and the best tracked of all the international shipping companies to the best of my knowledge.

If you have any further questions or need assistance with anything else, please don't hesitate to let me know — here or via email. And I will let you know if or when DHL provide a substantive reply.

Thank you for your continued support, and I hope to serve you better in the future.

 

[sehkelly]

Sorry, one more question on the trench. How soft/flowy is the material? I like the look of a trench that cinches through the waist (a la classic Burberry) and in the pics on the website the material looks quite firm/stiff.

Thanks!

It is firm and rigid when new, but softens up a lot over time, once the fibres loosen up.

It has to be "broken in" though, so is not akin to a traditional trench coat cotton gabardine or twill.

 

[PrinceRupert]

Thanks!

And to be clear, the delivery point isn't a complaint to you - appreciate you pay the delivery charge and it is free to me, so was more if you wanted to complain to DHL that you were not getting what you paid for!

 

[sehkelly]

Thanks right back at you.

I appreciate your understanding and agree with you regarding the delivery.

It's important to me that you receive a great service. If you ever do experience any issues with delivery in future, please don't hesitate to let me know. Your satisfaction is my priority, truly.

 

[OldsRecordingGuy]

Gents, imho the discussion the DHL delivery issue could have better been a matter for private messaging. Just saying.

 

[sehkelly]

Gents, imho the discussion the DHL delivery issue could have better been a matter for private messaging. Just saying.

Understood.

I apologise for posting messages here when they probably should have been in a private chat. I'll be more mindful of that in the future.

 

[PrinceRupert]

The shirt arrived yesterday, thank you. I really like it, and am wearing it today with an unstructured navy corduroy suit, which I think it works well with. The calico material is lovely.

A few comments on the fit, in case helpful to others (for reference it is the calico shirt with standard collar), if I may (assuming this is appropriate thread material, didn't realise it was so tightly policed ) - and to be clear, none of this is criticism, merely observation from someone without much experience:

- It is slim (or I am wide...) through the waist and hips - not too slim, and sits nicely when tucked in, but might be a little slim for me to wear untucked without losing a few lbs.
- It is very slim through the cuffs - I know this was made very clear on your website, and it leads to a really nice fit - except I can barely get my (fairly modestly sized) sports watch under the cuff!
- The collar sits high, which gives a great old school look when sitting right - but does take a bit of effort to stop it splaying out over the lapel of the jacket (worn open without a tie, having tried it with two different albeit unstructured jackets - perhaps wouldn't have this problem with structured jackets).

 

[OldsRecordingGuy]

The shirt arrived yesterday, thank you. I really like it, and am wearing it today with an unstructured navy corduroy suit, which I think it works well with. The calico material is lovely.

A few comments on the fit, in case helpful to others (for reference it is the calico shirt with standard collar), if I may (assuming this is appropriate thread material, didn't realise it was so tightly policed ) - and to be clear, none of this is criticism, merely observation from someone without much experience:

- It is slim (or I am wide...) through the waist and hips - not too slim, and sits nicely when tucked in, but might be a little slim for me to wear untucked without losing a few lbs.
- It is very slim through the cuffs - I know this was made very clear on your website, and it leads to a really nice fit - except I can barely get my (fairly modestly sized) sports watch under the cuff!
- The collar sits high, which gives a great old school look when sitting right - but does take a bit of effort to stop it splaying out over the lapel of the jacket (worn open without a tie, having tried it with two different albeit unstructured jackets - perhaps wouldn't have this problem with structured jackets).

Your comments on the fit sound good to me as a very slim guy. Similar to the aforementioned cut work trousers which are apparently and luckily slimmer than I had originally thought.
Appropriate thread material, haha, and nice pun (if intended)

 

[sehkelly]

Thanks so much for the feedback.

I'm heartened to hear you received the shirt and that you like it. And I always appreciate detailed observations: always eager to hear from our folks to improve ourt work.

1. Fit through the waist and hips: the shirt was designed with a fairly slim fit in mind, halfway between a formal shirt and a casual one, such that it can be worn casually, untucked, or with a suit. Generally — and with great relief and praise to the shirt gods — it seems to work well with lots of different body sizes.

2. Slim cuffs: glad to hear that the slim cuffs provide a nice fit, and the idea is that they give a tailored look and provide a snug fit at the end of the sleeve ... but yes, with a big sports watch, it will always be a battle! Perhaps because it is different to what you wear currently it feels peculiar; the shirt and watch might get to know each other better with time and wear.

3. Collar height: it might be your soft jacket, yes, which might come up lower on the neck than a more structured one. Our collar stand is higher than some that I see, but only to the tune of about 0.5cm. It all makes a difference though, I agree, and I guess part of the adventure of dressing is finding out what works well with what!

Again, thanks! Your input is appreciated; it keeps me on my toes to keep refining our work.