S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

Paul, any shirting coming out in the next couple months?

Yessir — heavy moleskin (standard collar) and corduroy (spread collar) and needlecord (revamped button-down collar) all coming along in November.

 

[Jnarcane]

The field shirt has undergone a few design changes and will reappear in the spring, and the flight jacket has had a more substantial facelift and might emerge later next year (no plans as yet).

If the flight jacket returns in the umber sail-cloth, I'm probably good for one!

 

[sehkelly]

If the flight jacket returns in the umber sail-cloth, I'm probably good for one!

That's a great cloth.

The flight jacket re-development started with that sort of cloth in mind, but the sample was made in a woollen cloth, similar to that used for the peacoat — because of a lack of available scrap cloth to hand at the time! — and actually turned out very nicely. So that's gave me pause for thought. We might use the woollen cloth for the body and the cotton for the sleeves, because it has a saddle shoulder and so would accentuate that part of its design. We did the same many moons ago for an early version of the flight jacket (e.g. https://burnish.hatenablog.jp/entry/2017/10/27/174050).

 

[PacoPico]

That’s a great looking combo and I expect it is good for durability. Who needs elbow patches when your entire sleeve is canvas?

I’m looking forward to seeing the new guernsey colors but we’ll see if I can justify getting a second sweater so soon. I’m loving the dark grey crewneck and it’s barely even cold enough to wear it yet.

 

[Csus2]

Honestly it’s barely cold enough to wear the crew neck in late January. I wore it with a rain coat in -20 C degree weather and I was sweating.

 

[sehkelly]

Honestly it’s barely cold enough to wear the crew neck in late January. I wore it with a rain coat in -20 C degree weather and I was sweating.

Crikey!

Yes, they are quite ... cosy.

 

[swift.lion3933]

Pardon my ignorance but is there a reason why there is not a sweep measurement on the Ulster?

For example:
M Topcoat Sweep: 23
M Balmacaan Sweep: 24

Does the Ulster fall more closely to one of those two? Does the measurement not make sense to consider for a coat like the Ulster?

 

[sehkelly]

Pardon my ignorance but is there a reason why there is not a sweep measurement on the Ulster?

For example:
M Topcoat Sweep: 23
M Balmacaan Sweep: 24

Does the Ulster fall more closely to one of those two? Does the measurement not make sense to consider for a coat like the Ulster?

I just forgot, that's all.

It will follow the same pattern as those two coats, yes.

 

[swift.lion3933]

I just forgot, that's all.

It will follow the same pattern as those two coats, yes.

So for a M Ulster the chest is 22in and the sweep will be approximately 2in greater than the chest (22+2=24in) similar to how the topcoat and balmacaan constructions have sweeps that are 2in greater than their respective chest sizes?

 

[sehkelly]

So for a M Ulster the chest is 22in and the sweep will be approximately 2in greater than the chest (22+2=24in) similar to how the topcoat and balmacaan constructions have sweeps that are 2in greater than their respective chest sizes?

Between 1 and 2 inches, yes. It has a bit of waist suppression so probably nigh-on 2 inches as you say.

I'll measure one when back behind the wheel and will get back to you.

 

[sehkelly]

So for a M Ulster the chest is 22in and the sweep will be approximately 2in greater than the chest (22+2=24in) similar to how the topcoat and balmacaan constructions have sweeps that are 2in greater than their respective chest sizes?

I can confirm that the step between pit measurement and sweep on the Ulster is 1.5 inches.

If you are factoring the sweep into how the coat will fit on your body, remember that the back of the coat has an inverted pleat, which increases the sweep measurement considerably. I would say "increases the sweep measurement considerably when the coat is in use" but the pleat is pretty much always active on this sort of coat, truth be told, especially when the coat in question is made with Herdwick tweed, which bounces around and doesn't permit the pleat to sit closed for long / at all.

 

[Jnarcane]

That's a great cloth.

The flight jacket re-development started with that sort of cloth in mind, but the sample was made in a woollen cloth, similar to that used for the peacoat — because of a lack of available scrap cloth to hand at the time! — and actually turned out very nicely. So that's gave me pause for thought. We might use the woollen cloth for the body and the cotton for the sleeves, because it has a saddle shoulder and so would accentuate that part of its design. We did the same many moons ago for an early version of the flight jacket (e.g. https://burnish.hatenablog.jp/entry/2017/10/27/174050).

¿Porque no los dos?

And speaking of wool, might I suggest tweed as a vessel for the field shirt's triumphal return?

 

[sehkelly]

¿Porque no los dos?

And speaking of wool, might I suggest tweed as a vessel for the field shirt's triumphal return?

It's a good idea ... but the most immediate re-appearance of the field shirt, at least, will be very heavy linen — with spring in mind.

 

[KeeperEUSC]

Received my Ulster this morning, absolutely love it - hoped the half-belt would give me enough flexibility to make the XL sizing work and it really did just the trick.
Where's the sleeve intended to fall on the Ulster? I knew my sizing tradeoff was that I'd have to get them shortened, my sense was that they should end just at the wrist.

 

[sehkelly]

Received my Ulster this morning, absolutely love it - hoped the half-belt would give me enough flexibility to make the XL sizing work and it really did just the trick.
Where's the sleeve intended to fall on the Ulster? I knew my sizing tradeoff was that I'd have to get them shortened, my sense was that they should end just at the wrist.

That's really heartening to hear!

Cheers.

There's no "intended to" with where the sleeves fall, as arms vary by such ludicrous amounts (humans really are an outlier in the Mammalia class in this respect). However, they are cut to the standard length for classic British overcoats, and so for the very most standard (western or I guess British) man they would fall to just before the start of the hands.