S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

id be curious to ask what kind of interfacing material you use. I’m considering taking up trying to make a few of my own clothes and it would be a help if I ever get ambitious enough to make a coat or jacket! (Tbh at first if I make something wearable, whatever it is, I’d be happy)

There are lots of different kinds, different qualities and weights, depending on shirt, jacket, etc.

You'd be best speaking to a haberdasher like https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/c/841/fusible-woven-knitted to get you on the right track, on that specific issue, and a good textbook on pattern-cutting / garment-making to get the ball rolling in general.

 

[DanielPicktonAllen]

That’s for the advice!

 

[OhBanana]

In heavy outerwear you generally want to fuse the front, collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, etc. etc. Anything, really, that needs to keep its shape and look crisp and smart.

It has been thus for as long as factories have made clothing — including raincoats!

Does that mean you had to apply fusible to the weatherproof ripstop as well? Pure curiosity. You mentioned before that it was already quite stiff and being a synthetic, I'm curious if it's made to a higher heat tolerance to handle being fused.

 

[sehkelly]

Does that mean you had to apply fusible to the weatherproof ripstop as well? Pure curiosity. You mentioned before that it was already quite stiff and being a synthetic, I'm curious if it's made to a higher heat tolerance to handle being fused.

Yes, you have to use fusible, otherwise the garment has no real shape and structure.

Different fused interlinings have different melting points to form a strong and lasting bond with the cloth.

The weatherproof ripstop has a high heat tolerance, but that's by the by in this instance: all cloth can withstand the heat necessary for the interfacing to bond (though sometimes it shrinks, but that's another kettle of frogs).

 

[OhBanana]

`Anything's possible!`

Now I'm imagining some poor maker somewhere trying their hand at applying fusible to a new material only to have it not just pucker, but straight up shrink a whole size. Surprise inventory change!

 

[ghh923]

@DanielPicktonAllen What size did you take in a field coat, and what is your normal SEH outerwear size?

 

[DanielPicktonAllen]

@DanielPicktonAllen What size did you take in a field coat, and what is your normal SEH outerwear size?

My field Coat is an L, as is my peacoat and duffle coat, and trucker, but my balmacaan is a M (though I believe the balmacaan sizing has been altered since I got mine).

It depends what shape you are too, and how you want to wear things.

 

[swift.lion3933]

but my balmacaan is a M (though I believe the balmacaan sizing has been altered since I got mine).

What year is yours? As far as I can tell, when comparing a web archive link from 2020, it looks like the Balmacaan today is a few inches longer than the 2020 version with 1 less inch in the chest. Although it looks like in 2021 there was a version with a with a few more inches in length than the version today. And minor sleeve length differences.

 

[RozenKristal]

What year is yours? As far as I can tell, when comparing a web archive link from 2020, it looks like the Balmacaan today is a few inches longer than the 2020 version with 1 less inch in the chest. Although it looks like in 2021 there was a version with a with a few more inches in length than the version today. And minor sleeve length differences.

There was one year the balmacaan was one size larger than usual. I have an xs of that year tho my typical size is s

 

[Sneaky Pete]

We have in the past, with styles like work jackets or SB jackets in linen, or very lightweight cotton, but the strengths of the mills of the British Isles (with whom we solely work) are by and large heavier, tougher materials.

And so we play, increasingly, to those strengths.

It informs our whole mentality, from the conception of idea onwards. It's nice to think about blousons and lightweight, looser styles, but they'll never be our forte, and it's tough to find a decent variety of summery materials with which to match them.

Personally, in warm weather, I just wear ... less. Just a shirt: an overshirt at most. It limits me storage-wise, but I've never been one to layer up much in spring and summer. That's just me, for better or worse, but it I guess it also inevitably informs our approach to lightweight jackets. But the main obstacle is paucity of cloth which is both extremely interesting and made in the British Isles.

We never give up on it, though! We'll revisit the engineer jacket one day, and perhaps try another workwear-style or tailored jacket in linen. Plus revive the field shirt and mayen the pyjama jacket in a lighter material than current. But nothing any time soon, sorry to say.

I'm surprised there aren't some good Irish linens that would be suitable. (Of course, it may simply be an idea or garment that doesn't particularly interest you). For instance, there are some textured and self-patterned linens from this maker that I think would be right up your street

John England Irish Linen & Fusions I - John England Irish Linen

Irish Linen & Fusions I offers a wide range of fabrics blending Irish linen with other fibres like cotton, wool, and recycled materials.

johnengland.com

(Some is mixed linen and wool, which is not permitted under Jewish law! Not a pressing concern, I suspect).

 

[sehkelly]

I'm surprised there aren't some good Irish linens that would be suitable. (Of course, it may simply be an idea or garment that doesn't particularly interest you). For instance, there are some textured and self-patterned linens from this maker that I think would be right up your street

John England Irish Linen & Fusions I - John England Irish Linen

Irish Linen & Fusions I offers a wide range of fabrics blending Irish linen with other fibres like cotton, wool, and recycled materials.

johnengland.com

(Some is mixed linen and wool, which is not permitted under Jewish law! Not a pressing concern, I suspect).

John England is fantastic.

Lovely stuff from lovely people, no doubt, and we are no strangers — but not always up our street / machine-friendly / durable / thick enough / lightweight enough / the right colour (for our specific needs at a specific time).

 

[ghh923]

Thank you @DanielPicktonAllen . Are you a "traditional" size 42, generally speaking? Last, can you layer under your field coat?

 

[rahcola]

I'm here trying to remember what the measurements were on the site for my tropical wool SB3 jacket as I'm thinking about the new SB jacket and the measurements of that seem like a size smaller or so than the SB3. Am I at all on the right track here Paul?

 

[sehkelly]

I'm here trying to remember what the measurements were on the site for my tropical wool SB3 jacket as I'm thinking about the new SB jacket and the measurements of that seem like a size smaller or so than the SB3. Am I at all on the right track here Paul?

It's not changed for a quite a years, the SB / SB3, apart from the tragic loss of the top button a few months back.

You're on very safe ground with the same size as previous.

 

[DanielPicktonAllen]

@DanielPicktonAllen . Are you a "traditional" size 42, generally speaking? Last, can you layer under your field coat?
[/QUOTE]
Im not sure quite what you mean by traditional. I’m 26 years old, 6’2” tall, I weigh around 160 lbs, in most clothes I’d take a medium or either a 38 or a 40. I take an L in outerwear because of my wide shoulders (naturally and I’ve played sport for a long time so I’m moderately athletic 😅). So in summary, no, and that might be unfortunately not very helpful.
I usually wear a thin jumper and a t-shirt under my t-shirt. If I could fit more than that under a coat, in my book it’s too big!