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RLPL suits compared to competition?

TimelesStyle

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How does RLPL compare in quality to competition from Zegna, Oxxford, Belvest or Isaia? I know that they are more expensive (practically Brioni prices), but I also know some of that has to be a markup due to the label.
 

stu00a

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When they were made by St. Andrews, it was superb quality.

I think you can definitely compare it to Brioni, Kiton, Isaia and more.

I don't know who actually manufactures them now, I heard Caruso makes them, but I don't know how they construct the suit.
 

Longmorn

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I've been told by an RL rep that there was a separate area and manufacturing line for RLPL within the Caruso factory. I think the general consensus was that the Caruso RLPL was better than the company's other lines, but not as good as St. Andrews RLPL.

However, the same rep told me that RLPL is reverting to St. Andrew's for F/W 2013, so back to it's previous superlative quality. I own some St. Andrews RLPL and it's outstanding.
 
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Ivar

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How does RLPL compare in quality to competition from Zegna, Oxxford, Belvest or Isaia? I know that they are more expensive (practically Brioni prices), but I also know some of that has to be a markup due to the label.


All those makers are excellent, so which one you choose should come down to the styling, and not minute differences in quality.
 

TimelesStyle

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I went to look at some today and was told that they have gone back to St. Andrews. However one thing I noticed was that the front tab closure on the trousers is identical to the Caruso RLBL (interior button, two exterior hook/bar closures; rare to see double H/B). Also, the side tabs were identical. Obviously this means next to nothing, as RL designs the suits, but struck me as interesting.

Custom Fit fit me very well, with few mods likely needed to stock pattern. However I'm not 100% sure the quality justifies the price over the others I was looking at (Zegna, Oxxford, Belvest, Isaia).
 

Longmorn

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I own Zegna mainline, Zegna MTM, and RL Purple Label made by Saint Andrews. In my opinion, the Saint Andrews stands head and shoulders above the Zegna. I've never been all that impressed by Isaia, but neither have I inspected it systematically. I can't really comment on Oxxford or Belvest, having only ever given them a cursory look. However, all these makers are well regarded, and as Ivar suggested the differences in quality shouldn't outweigh your own judgment about the one you like best.

That said, if you're considering RLPL at full retail and you're willing to invest the time and effort*, you might be better off with bespoke.

*(please do not disregard the caveat - my own relatively new experience with bespoke has been excellent but definitely involved a learning curve).
 

TimelesStyle

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I own Zegna mainline, Zegna MTM, and RL Purple Label made by Saint Andrews. In my opinion, the Saint Andrews stands head and shoulders above the Zegna. I've never been all that impressed by Isaia, but neither have I inspected it systematically. I can't really comment on Oxxford or Belvest, having only ever given them a cursory look. However, all these makers are well regarded, and as Ivar suggested the differences in quality shouldn't outweigh your own judgment about the one you like best. 

That said, if you're considering RLPL at full retail and you're willing to invest the time and effort*, you might be better off with bespoke.

*(please do not disregard the caveat - my own relatively new experience with bespoke has been excellent but definitely involved a learning curve).


No bespoke for me on this; I'm easy enough to fit OTR even that at least the first couple times bespoke is likely to come out less well than MTM. So we're talking at least $10k worth of "learning" which is way too much for me.
 

330CK

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How can one tell the difference between the St. Andrew's and Caruso RLPL?


Caruso has a very distinctive pick stitching that attaches the lining.

Or you could check the content tag. St. Andrew's will be more square and sewn on completely, while Caruso's tag will be more rectangular & glossy and only sewn from the top of the label. Check the labels thread.


To OP-

I've never been disappointed with RLPL quality in suits/sc. They may be priced higher than competition, or even from the company that made it, but so are Tom Ford Zegna suits--you're paying for the design/cut/fit...the name.
 

dreamspace

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I own one St. Andrews made RLPL suit, and some Oxxford. I like them both, and it's had to distinguish what's "best". I will however say, I like the RLPL fabric better than Oxxfords stock fabric.

My only gripe with RLPL RTW is that they tend to run a bit wide over the shoulders, compared to many of their competitors in the same price class. So if you have a bit narrow shoulders, it can be tricky to find a good fitting RLPL suit/coat.
 

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