Replacing sole with original on high-end shoes

[kasper007]

A recent incident with a pair of C&J (which i will describe later) as lead me to wonder how do most SF members go about replacing the sole of their high-end shoes with an original sole without having to send it back to the manufacturer for a factory rebuild. I know many members are in the same situation as i am where there is very little or no good local shop so purchases are made online. Most of us have access to a good cobbler so replacing generic leather sole is not a problem, but what do you guys do with shoes that have a "nicer" original sole (Handgrade, JL, EG, etc)?

As for my situation, i have a ~1 year old pair of C&J Handgrade. The other day, i probably walked on something sharp while it was raining and it pierced my sole and a ~1cm spot in diameter got soaked and it now really soft and is located right in the middle of the shoe. I am of course in need of a sole replacement and want to replace with original sole so i sent an email to C&J and their only option is a £140 factory rebuild. Now these shoe have very light use and definitely don't need the full rebuilt so i was wondering if anyone knew of any cobbler with access to original C&J soles and / or if there was a way to order the soles from somewhere as my local cobbler could do the replacement, but doesn't have access to C&J soles.

 

[agavilanes]

Why dont you just topy'em? A thin layer of rubber will do the trick IMO, and also make the shoes less slippery.

 

[kasper007]

Originally Posted by agavilanes

Why dont you just topy'em? A thin layer of rubber will do the trick IMO, and also make the shoes less slippery.

i could, but i'm not a fan and was always told that it wasn't good for the shoe

 

[agavilanes]

Originally Posted by kasper007

i could, but i'm not a fan and was always told that it wasn't good for the shoe

I topy and add heel protection in all my shoes right before wear'em. I didnt have problems with it. If the topy worn out, it's easy to repair than the original sole IMO.

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by kasper007

A Most of us have access to a good cobbler so replacing generic leather sole is not a problem, but what do you guys do with shoes that have a "nicer" original sole (Handgrade, JL, EG, etc)?

Now these shoe have very light use and definitely don't need the full rebuilt so i was wondering if anyone knew of any cobbler with access to original C&J soles and / or if there was a way to order the soles from somewhere as my local cobbler could do the replacement, but doesn't have access to C&J soles.

What you mean of "original sole"? I think C&J use Baker sole, IIRC, they don't tan their own sole. or you can try JR sole.

 

[kasper007]

Originally Posted by Fishball

What you mean of "original sole"? I think C&J use Baker sole, IIRC, they don't tan their own sole. or you can try JR sole.

should have been more clear, i don't really care if it's exactly the same soles (brand and everything), as long as it's of equal or better quality and looks the same (rounded edge over the arch, etc). But i'm not sure if the round edge is something that is manufactured or can be done by the cobbler...

 

[Nick V.]

Originally Posted by kasper007

should have been more clear, i don't really care if it's exactly the same soles (brand and everything), as long as it's of equal or better quality and looks the same (rounded edge over the arch, etc). But i'm not sure if the round edge is something that is manufactured or can be done by the cobbler...

JR soles are at least as good and in most cases better than the original maker's. The rounded edge that you are referring to is called a "beveled waist". A skilled craftsman should be able to do it. However, it should be done on a last. Make sure that you tell him that's how you want it and ask to see a sample of his work before you leave your shoes with him.

 

[billiebob]

I just noticed a dime sized hole in the center of my CJ for polo Darltons' sole. I can't believe I've worn them through this quickly. The outer layer of sole is worn through and there a cracked leather midsole material showing through. I have over 30 pairs of shoes and have maybe worn these shoes 20 times.
The rest of the soles are fine, as are the original heels and toes, as I use the kiwi plastic taps on those.

Rather than replace the soles I'm just going to topy over them. I have another pair of cordovan Darltons that I wear FAR more often. I topied those when they were new and I have walked over 100 miles in them, and the 1/16" thick topy is still fine.

 

[Nick V.]

Originally Posted by billiebob

I just noticed a dime sized hole in the center of my CJ for polo Darltons' sole. I can't believe I've worn them through this quickly. The outer layer of sole is worn through and there a cracked leather midsole material showing through. I have over 30 pairs of shoes and have maybe worn these shoes 20 times.
The rest of the soles are fine, as are the original heels and toes, as I use the kiwi plastic taps on those.

Rather than replace the soles I'm just going to topy over them. I have another pair of cordovan Darltons that I wear FAR more often. I topied those when they were new and I have walked over 100 miles in them, and the 1/16" thick topy is still fine.


The "cracked leather midsole material" that you see is the cork footbed. Putting a Topy (sole guard) on top of that would be like putting an Ace bandage on a broken bone. Any cobbler that would do that job is not worth his salt. In addition to other benefits, sole guards PREVENT the leather sole from wearing out. When you have them installed on newer soles (soles that have a firm body) they will wear great. However, when the sole is week or soft they will wear out very quickly. In addition, since your sole is worn through or week this may cause the cork to crack or shift. Any decent cobbler knows this. If he does the job he is looking for the quick buck. Send your shoes back to the maker or a reputable repair shop and have them re-crafted, then have the sole guards applied. It will cost you more up front but in the long run you will be saving money and it's better for the shoe.

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by agavilanes

I topy and add heel protection in all my shoes right before wear'em. I didnt have problems with it. If the topy worn out, it's easy to repair than the original sole IMO.

+1 - people that say topies are no good might be crazy. I dont wear any high end shoes, just AEs and the like, but I've never had any problems with topies adversly affecting the shoes. I have some shoes that have had toppies on them for years. Toppies add grip and save lots and lots of money.