'Relaxed' fit for skinny guys?

[Ahaz]

I posted this on SuperFuture, but I'd like to expand on it and generate some more discussion here.

For the past five months or so, I've been wearing my Greycast Ralfs everyday. I found them cheap on eBay, and figured 'why not?', even though before that I had firmly been in the skinny or slim jean camp. Not Thin Finn or JR Hoboken skinny, rather more like Mic, Max, sized down NS, or 19cm Dior skinny.

Well, I'm still not all that much of a bootcut fan, but wearing Ralfs for that period has really changed my outlook on jeans. I don't like the way my 21 cm Diors (actual hem ~18.75cm) fit me any more. I don't really like my Mics, my XX-005 or my Dukes either, anymore.

I still really like skinny jeans on other people, but just not for me anymore. I'm a thin guy. My Ralfs are 28x34, and they weren't all that hard to button even on the initial wear. I want a 'relaxed' fit jean, but proportional to my size. I think my Denime 66 lowrise do a great job of that, but they've stretched and I've lost weight, so they're now about 3 sizes too big.

I hate when my jeans are too big in the waist. I hate having them slip down all the time, and I hate having a saggy ass - anti fit is not a good look for me. So I buy smaller waists. Hey, I have a small waist! But then, these 'slim' jeans are too damn skinny everywhere else for me. Not embarassingly or painfully so, but too skinny for my new tastes.

I tried on an SD-303 a ways back, and I was swimming in them, even though they were very tight in the waist. You could see zero definition in any part of my legs. So I'd like something not too big/relaxed in the seat and thigh area, but still maintaining a hem of greater than 8 inches. Specific request, I know.

Samurai s5000vx - I could size down one and a half, to a size 28. The rise and thigh measurements look like they would work with me, but I'm worried that them hem and calf area might shrink up too much (BiG list the raw size 29 as having an 8.5" hem). Also, I live in Texas, so 17oz denim might make me want to shoot myself.

Skull s5000xx - Bigger hem than the Sams, but also a higher rise (higher rises do not really compliment my body type, in my experience) and maybe slightly looser up top. The denim is lighter weight.

PBJ XX-006 - According to BiG's measurements, these fit much slimmer in the thigh than Sams and the Skulls, but have a bigger hem. Seems like they are very straight cut. The size 28, however, is listed as having a 32" inseam. That's raw, but I'm kinda skeptical they they'll shrink up that much. I like my raw denim to start out at 29", and stretch out to 30". My jeans that have done that usually fit me best. Also, the XX-005 didn't really fit me right, even though they were the correct size. Weird around the crotch and the seat.

What jeans should I buy?

SSDS would be very close to what I'm looking for, but I already have a pair I've beat to ****. And I'm tired of Nudies, I own too many of them already.

In summation, is anyone else tired of skinny jeans? I think they have their place, and on certain body types they will never go out of style, but for me, I want a change.

Sorry for the novel. *mutters about useless English degree*

 

[PG2G]

How about the Kicking Mule Workshop 1950 or 1980?

 

[nastyandy]

If you don't mind a one-wash, how about the RB6? They're trouser fit, so I could see them qualifying as 'relaxed' on a skinny guy.

 

[Ahaz]

Originally Posted by PG2G

How about the Kicking Mule Workshop 1950 or 1980?
Good suggestions. I have a pair of the 1980, and I do still like them. It's a good cut, and is replacing the jeans I mentioned above as my new slim pair. I'm looking for a jean with a little more room from the knee down. And seeing as I don't want a boot cut, that probably means a little more room in the thigh. Or maybe more of a straight down fit? Using BiG measurements, a thigh of 11" or slightly less and a knee of 8 1/4" to 8 1/2" that continues straight down to the hem sounds like what I'm looking for. Issues like rise, waist, hips and just general cut makes my measurement requirements seem a little silly, but oh well. EDIT: RB6 is also a good suggestion, but I need a 29" waist, and at least a 33" inseam (that's allowing for zero shrinkage). I've lusted over several of their models, but it seems like they don't cater to thin people who have a little heigth at all. EDIT2: The 21oz Iron Hearts up of Self Edge now seemed like they might fit the bill, but damn...21oz...in Texas? I don't think so.

 

[PG2G]

Here's measurements for a size 31 45rpm sorahiko. May fit your requirements, don't know how they scale down to size 29 though.

Tagged size 31
Waist: 31
Inseam: 34
Hem: 8.5 (flat)
Front Rise: 10.75
Rear Rise: 14

And yeah, the SEXIH look nice. I'm trying to convince myself not to drive upstate to buy a pair That's $400... that's pretty close to the denim big leaguers as far as I'm concerned. Add another hundred or so and you're looking at all the flagship natural indigo pairs. That said, if they show up online in my size they will likely be mine.

 

[Ahaz]

Thank God they're not offered online. If they were, it might make me somehow rationalize the insane weight of the denim.

I've never been impressed with the pictures of the models on the 45rpm site, but pictures mean almost nothing. Hell, go look at the 1980 on Revolve

Those measurements look really good. Are you measuring a pair you own? Could you get me the thigh, measured from the crotch seam and parallel to the waist band (a la BiG)?

And if any of you F***ers mention Jomons at all, I'll drive to your house and wash all you dry denim on hot/hot and NOT turn them inside out.

 

[PG2G]

I got those measurements from 45rpm when I was looking to buy a pair of suminandos. I have a 31 that I ordered, I can pull them out and measure them for you.

 

[Ahaz]

Originally Posted by PG2G

I can pull them out and measure them for you.

Gordon from BiG just sent me this:

Originally Posted by Gordon

The 006 will shrink to tag size as I've washed a few. The stretching though could potentialy be more than an inch, this depends of course on how tight you wear them and if you use a belt to control stretching. I'll ask some 006 customers about their experiences and get back to you.
from his Blackberry. How's that for customer service? Didn't help me too much with the whole 'how the hell do these shrink 4" in the waist and not turn into unwearable denim socks in the thighs' question, but I'm very impressed he's going to ask around. I emailed 45rpm, and will hopefully be getting some measurements on a size 29 one wash Sorahiko. I still think the three jeans listed in the first post are viable candidates, I just don't know enough about how they will turn out after their first soak. Anybody have some experience they'd like to share?

 

[PG2G]

Looks like its 12 inches on a size 31. I'd assume there was a bit of stretching in there also.

 

[Ahaz]

That's not bad at all. I had a guy on sufu recommend me the Sorahiko too. Hopefully the 45rpm people get back to me with some measurements.

Oh yeah, good info on the Kings. Anyone know when they're making the switch to smaller back pockets?

 

[Empire]

How about Nudie straight sven ? Despite what others have said it fits nothing like reg ralf. The leg is slim, straight and slightly relaxed and measures 8.5" at the hem (on my 30" waist). The back and front rise are each about 0.5" shorter than ralf meaning you wont get the saggy ass. Honestly its a great cut and looks great on slimmer guys. I think the sven will suit your needs to a tee
Edited as i see you already have straight sven ! Still a great cut though

 

[Ahaz]

Originally Posted by Empire

How about Nudie straight sven ? Despite what others have said it fits nothing like reg ralf. The leg is slim, straight and slightly relaxed and measures 8.5" at the hem (on my 30" waist). The back and front rise are each about 0.5" shorter than ralf meaning you wont get the saggy ass. Honestly its a great cut and looks great on slimmer guys. I think the sven will suit your needs to a tee
Edited as i see you already have straight sven ! Still a great cut though

I agree 100%! The Sven is a great cut! I love it so much, in fact, I spent a good deal of time trying to find my size in the flame/streaky denim version, although without success.

45rpm got back to me with these measurements:

Originally Posted by 45rpm

hem:8.5"
upper thigh (at crotch):10"
knee:9"

I thought that sounded perfect, and ordered a pair online. I then got an email from Christian at 45rpm telling me he saw my order, and wanted to make sure it was correct. Seems they only sell the slim Sorahiko online, while the normal Sorahiko is what they gave me measurements to. It was totally my fault, I didn't even realize there were two versions. I was really impressed they caught my mistake.

He's going to cancel the order, and then I'm going to call the Soho store and see if they can ship me a pair.

I'd still like to hear more opinions, if you guys have them, or just talk about how your fashion tastes have evolved over time.

 

[Ott]

in my experience, finding relaxed jeans that aren't totally anti-fit is a bit of a pain. This applies double if you're skinny.

Have you tried on 21cm italian diors? They're much "baggier" than the Japanese ones are-he hem on the italians for a size 29 is about 8.2. There's pics of me wearing them in WAYWT about a month back.

Then again, diors always look slightly antifit even if you aren't trying to slouch them.

also I wouldn't recommend the s5000vx. The thigh is quite slim and the seat isn't really that fitted unless you size down.

ps sup zaha

 

[dbonline]

A relaxed fit for a skinny guy is easily accomplished by getting a "regular" fit. Looking for more room through the thigh and seat can be hard especially when you want to avoid an that baggier look. I would highly suggest something that is not intended to be relaxed fit (they are cut for bigger asses and thighs). Kunna and Notify both do pockets that are higher placed and smaller to give you the same look in the butt as a slimmer pair but have some of the fits have roomier seats and thighs. Both Mauro (denimbar) and I love Blueblood and his skinny ass legs look good in the big pickle (one of their baggier fits).

When looking at photos of what you're interested in, I would pay particular attention to the size and placement of the pockets.

Brands that make ****** look tiny as ****:
Notify
Agave
Kunna
Women's jeans

 

[sbbbjm]

i agree with the Nudie Svens -- i'm rocking my japanese selvage ones (not flame) and i freaking love the fit. something about the really straight cut hips, and semi anti-fit seat works really well on me.

if i was you i would take one of the skinny straight leg jeans like PBJ 005, s5000vx, skulls 5507, flat heads, even APC new standards, cures, or hipsters and just size up. its not going to hurt you. i know sizing up seems like sacrilege on forums like this where sizing down 2 seems to be the norm but. there are a few guys here that i've seen with these notoriously tight, skinny jeans worn looser and it looks awesome in my opinion.

checkout the 'what are you wearing now' -- there was a guy with PBJ's that looked like a regular fit, and a guy with ande wall's that were also worn regular fit. checkout my posts bc, i always comment on stuff like that if i see it and like it.