Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

[Nyarlathotep]

 

[DoubleDouble]

Serious question inspired by dieworkwear's podcast: people always talk about the challenges of dressing well if you have a very large body, but what are the challenges for very lanky bodies?

I'm fairly lanky (could be worse) and I've found rugged clothing looks better and is more believable on people who can fill it up. On the opposite end I also noticed more modern, large, flowy coats, shirts, and pants look better on people with muscle and often lead to a "scarecrow" effect on lanky people.

So what clothing suits a very tall very slim person best?

 

[ppk]

Serious question inspired by dieworkwear's podcast: people always talk about the challenges of dressing well if you have a very large body, but what are the challenges for very lanky bodies?

I'm fairly lanky (could be worse) and I've found rugged clothing looks better and is more believable on people who can fill it up. On the opposite end I also noticed more modern, large, flowy coats, shirts, and pants look better on people with muscle and often lead to a "scarecrow" effect on lanky people.

So what clothing suits a very tall very slim person best?

I'm lanky as well. 6'1" 145 lbs.

A good model is Gary Cooper who was really tall. In tailoring, English style suits look better than Neapolitan tailoring. Chinos and jeans have become more full as well - especially Japanese repros, but many brands are offering wide leg, high waisted models. Skinny jeans and chinos are the worst. They emphasize the narrow profile.

That's my $.02.

 

[ppk]

I'm lanky as well. 6'1" 145 lbs.

A good model is Gary Cooper who was really tall. In tailoring, English style suits look better than Neapolitan tailoring. Chinos and jeans have become more full as well - especially Japanese repros, but many brands are offering wide leg, high waisted models. Skinny jeans and chinos are the worst. They emphasize the narrow profile.

That's my $.02.

Here are some pics of Cooper. Note that his suit shoulders are extended and his trousers are high waisted and wide. This emphasizes breadth to balance his length.

 

[DoubleDouble]

A good model is Gary Cooper who was really tall. In tailoring, English style suits look better than Neapolitan tailoring.

Yes this makes a lot of sense for tailoring, as it can be used to give structure where it's missing.

Do you think one can extrapolate learnings from this that apply to casualwear?

For example, maybe one should stick to harder fabrics for jackets because they create more structure, as opposed to cardigan-like jackets that just hang on the body. Maybe one should prefer chunky sweaters because they help fill out a coat. Etcetera.

 

[ppk]

Yes this makes a lot of sense for tailoring, as it can be user to give structure where it's missing.

Do you think one can extrapolate learnings from this that apply to casualwear?

For example, maybe one should stick to harder fabrics for jackets because they create more structure, as opposed to cardigan-like jackets that just hang on the body. Maybe one should prefer chunky sweaters because they help fill out a coat. Etcetera.

Yeah. You can apply the same principles. Layering helps because it naturally adds breadth.

 

[zissou]

I agree that more structure and moderate amounts of volume help us skinny folk. I’m 6’3” 175-180 and I’ve come to realize that drapey fabrics do not suit me at all. I prefer 5+ oz shirt fabrics, heavier denims, and mid- to heavyweight knits. I’ve come to embrace a fuller fit on a lot of my clothes.

 

[ppk]

I agree that more structure and moderate amounts of volume help us skinny folk. I’m 6’3” 175-180 and I’ve come to realize that drapey fabrics do not suit me at all. I prefer 5+ oz shirt fabrics, heavier denims, and mid- to heavyweight knits. I’ve come to embrace a fuller fit on a lot of my clothes.

The one good thing about being tall is that most brands' inseams are too short for me, and I can't buy impulsively. My wallet is so much happier. 😆

I usually have to go the MTM route. Luxire gets all my trouser money.

 

[zissou]

The one good thing about being tall is that most brands' inseams are too short for me, and I can't buy impulsively. My wallet is so much happier. 😆

I usually have to go the MTM route. Luxire gets all my trouser money.

Indeed! I’ve gotten to the point where I make all of my own shirts and pants. It’s so satisfying to wear clothes that are a perfect fit.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

I agree that more structure and moderate amounts of volume help us skinny folk. I’m 6’3” 175-180 and I’ve come to realize that drapey fabrics do not suit me at all. I prefer 5+ oz shirt fabrics, heavier denims, and mid- to heavyweight knits. I’ve come to embrace a fuller fit on a lot of my clothes.

I suppose I ought to weigh in here. I'm 5'10" and 125.

I went from wearing oversized clothing in the late 90s/early 00s to realizing that it only made me look even smaller/thinner than I am around the same time that, conveniently, slim fit everything took over fashion. Recently, I've been course correcting because I took it too far, like everyone else.

I've also concluded that I prefer heavier shirt fabrics and practically live in oxford, chambray, and especially flannel. Even when it comes to tailoring for warm weather, I much prefer heavier but breathable fabrics like hopsack over the tissue-thin tropical wool that is pushed on us these days. I got rid of all my slim fit chinos and found that the PRL classic fit is perfect for me, and the fabric is of sufficient weight (and 100% cotton with no stretch). I've also gone way fuller on all my MTM shirt measurements recently and apparently I am not the only one.

 

[ppk]

Indeed! I’ve gotten to the point where I make all of my own shirts and pants. It’s so satisfying to wear clothes that are a perfect fit.

Man, I'd love to do that! Especially, pants.

 

[zissou]

Man, I'd love to do that! Especially, pants.

Take some sewing classes and eventually a flat patterning course and you can Maybe there is a technical school nearby? Some local sewing shops even offer a lot of sewing courses. It’s fun!

 

[DoubleDouble]

The one good thing about being tall is that most brands' inseams are too short for me

I feel this pain. Just had to return some Lemaire pants. So sad I won't be able to ever wear some of their styles…

 

[ppk]

I feel this pain. Just had to return some Lemaire pants. So sad I won't be able to ever wear some of their styles…

May I suggest figuring out the dimensions: waist, hip, thigh, knee, leg opening, front rise, back rise, inseam and outseam. Have Luxire make it for you with your measurements.