Random Fashion Thoughts (Part 3: Style farmer strikes back) - our general discussion thread

[the shah]

A masterpiece. What is it really though?

MONICA BONVICINI

BeltDecke #4, 2017
Men's black leather belts, rivets, steel
$50-100k

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Are we witnessing the return of the chino in this thread?

Polo RL Andrew chinos:

These were an experiment, and I don't think they're ultimately the right fit for me. The rise is just a little too high for where I find comfortable, and there is too much room in the upper leg (and then too much taper after that). Also, a nitpick, but the hem is sewn 1" from the bottom and I prefer 1.5" on chinos.

Rubato Officer chinos:

These I like. Washed once so far, but they still need to be broken in some. I'm rolling the cuffs for now until I'm certain all the shrinkage is out. This may be causing them to look more tapered than they are (that, along with the stiffness the fabric still has). The rise is higher than my RRL chinos and kind of right at the sweet spot without going to grandpa heights. I think I still prefer flat front as well.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Polo RL Andrew chinos:
View attachment 1844890
These were an experiment, and I don't think they're ultimately the right fit for me. The rise is just a little too high for where I find comfortable, and there is too much room in the upper leg (and then too much taper after that). Also, a nitpick, but the hem is sewn 1" from the bottom and I prefer 1.5" on chinos.

Rubato Officer chinos:
View attachment 1844894
These I like. Washed once so far, but they still need to be broken in some. I'm rolling the cuffs for now until I'm certain all the shrinkage is out. This may be causing them to look more tapered than they are (that, along with the stiffness the fabric still has). The rise is higher than my RRL chinos and kind of right at the sweet spot without going to grandpa heights. I think I still prefer flat front as well.

Nice. Rubato is having a pop-up here this week. Might need to swing by.

 

[RegisDB9]

Any good recs for mens linen joggers?

 

[LA Guy]

MONICA BONVICINI

BeltDecke #4, 2017
Men's black leather belts, rivets, steel
$50-100k

I do love belts, but that is a bit too rich for my blood.

 

[hendrix]

Polo RL Andrew chinos:
View attachment 1844890
These were an experiment, and I don't think they're ultimately the right fit for me. The rise is just a little too high for where I find comfortable, and there is too much room in the upper leg (and then too much taper after that). Also, a nitpick, but the hem is sewn 1" from the bottom and I prefer 1.5" on chinos.

I know it's not your style, but here are some things you could do to make those RL chinos look good:

- get rid of belt, either much slimmer belt or none at all
- get rid of that shirt and get like a boxy white or blue shirt unbuttoned halfway, absolutely NO button down collar
- shoes should be chucks or vans or some kinda slim canvas sneaker
- $$$profit

 

[robinsongreen68]

^ reminds me of the scene in weird science where kelly lebrock takes the buttoned up preppy guys to uh 'non white guy' club

 

[APK]

Medical Fundraiser for Ben of Snake Oil Provisions

Hey guys,

Some of you might know Snake Oil... it's a shop here in LA that carries things like Iron Heart, RRL, Alden. and Rogue Territory. We did a collaborative jacket back in 2020 with them as well.

It's run by a married couple, and the husband is very much the hype man and marketer in their business. He models nearly all of clothing himself.

He's an avid motorcyclist and was sadly hit by a drunk driver last week. They're doing a GoFundMe to raise money for his medical costs, and for extra help with the business while he's recovering. Here's the link in case you'd like to donate...

https://www.gofundme.com/f/ben-neuhaus-snake-oil-provisions-medical

Watching this unfold has been devastating. Ben is such a good-energy guy and one of the reasons I got back into caring about clothes a few years ago. Hearing last night via his partner that he opted to undergo foot and partial limb amputation this past week was heartbreaking, even though it sounds like it was his choice and the option he'd wanted to take from the start. Just a totally senseless, life-altering thing to see happen to two good people who didn't do anything wrong.

Looks like the Go Fund Me is about halfway there, so people should kick in a few bucks if they can. These really are kind, warm people who have persevered and even grown their business despite multiple location changes (and Covid) over the years.

 

[eazye]

Another pair of Andrew fit Polo pants. These are double pleated chunky cords. I apologize for the creases, this is the first time I busted them out this season. Shown with a vtg Stoffee tee and Padmore and Barnes wallabees.

 

[Superb0bo]

^^ looks great

 

[jaaz16]

This really resonates:

How do you stop feeling like you need to buy everything you like?

Remedies for "compulsive coppers," and the debut of N.O. C.A.P. Mindset

www.blackbirdspyplane.com

Spoiler: Text

Buying fire s**t — we do too much of it. For me (Jonah) and Erin, this is partly a normal expression of our interest in clothes, and it’s an occupational hazard of having great taste and writing the no. 1 source across all media for “unbeatable recon.” But buying too much fire s**t is also a function of innate human yearning as exacerbated and deformed under modernity, baby — we cop compulsively, under the sway of pernicious and ubiquitous consumer-culture forces that exert their deranging influence on all of us.

The result is a state of “constant zombie copping”: Too much libidinal payoff, however fleeting, has been packed into the act of buying itself, and salient questions are rendered ancillary, if not ignored outright — not just, “Do I really need this?” but “Do I even really want to own this and, if so, could I relate to that acquisitive urge in a healthier, more intelligent, and more in-control way?”

During a recent open call for Personal Spyplane questions on IG we got a weighty query on the theme of compulsive copping:

“how do you stop feeling like you need to buy all the clothes you like?” — @gwooten15

This question neatly articulates the pathology of the compulsive copper: You see a piece of clothing that “checks all the boxes” of what you like, bells of longing go off in yr head, and you feel you must buy the thing to quiet the clang.

The first remedy for this compulsion is to introduce productive kinds of friction into the exchange — that is, try to add more boxes that need to be checked for the bells to clang / before you smash the coppington.

One imperfect yet productive way I’ve been personally trying to do this is to only buy things that stoke desire in person, establishing a higher bar of dopeness (and lower probability of regret) than is involved with e-commerce. This is also known as the C.I.R.L.O.C. (Cop I.R.L. Only Challenge) Mindset and it has many other benefits.

Another way is to develop better habits during moments of idleness, for instance: I should stop scrolling Grailed and Yahoo Japan Auctions when I’m bored.

And yet another way is to cross-reference any new appealing jawn against the many appealing ones I already own and love, to determine whether this garment “does something” that none of those garments do.

This last method grounds things in utility (e.g. “I already have black roomy lightweight pants that feel good in warm weather and go with everything, another pair would be redundant”). More interestingly, it can help to activate a powerful COUNTER-URGE, namely your desire to rock the fly s**t you already own, which will look better / integrate more swaggily into yr whole gestalt with wear. Next time you are tempted to cop, do a little inventory of your current jawn holdings, a.k.a. your B.I.G. B.U.C.S. library — I bet you’ll re-discover pieces you forgot you owned and are eager to put on.

It’s simple zero-sum math that owning more jawns = having fewer opportunities to flex on these hoes (in the enlightened gender-neutral sense) in each of them. In that light, you realize that buying a new garment is vexingly at cross purposes with enjoying a garment you already possess and love but haven’t worn enough. This may sound simple and obvious to many of you, but take it from me: To the Pathological Jawn Fiend, it’s a truth that takes effort to internalize.

This method is also especially potent because it’s not about deprivation. It’s about replacing one evanescent dopamine hit with more sustained pleasure, by transitioning from “acquisition mode” to “enjoyment mode”:

 

[michaellosauro]

Looking for help identifying these tees I've seen on French painter Mark Maggiori. That neckline and the sleeve openings are exactly what I've been looking for.

 

[1969]

I've been purchase abstinent for bit not as anti-consumerism but bc clothes look and feel the best to me really worn in (see contentedness thread or DeBonne Facture's "patina" section on their website).

edit - after reading that article looks like this is a point they're making, so yeah, agreed.

 

[schraiber]

This really resonates:

How do you stop feeling like you need to buy everything you like?

Remedies for "compulsive coppers," and the debut of N.O. C.A.P. Mindset

www.blackbirdspyplane.com

Spoiler: Text

Buying fire s**t — we do too much of it. For me (Jonah) and Erin, this is partly a normal expression of our interest in clothes, and it’s an occupational hazard of having great taste and writing the no. 1 source across all media for “unbeatable recon.” But buying too much fire s**t is also a function of innate human yearning as exacerbated and deformed under modernity, baby — we cop compulsively, under the sway of pernicious and ubiquitous consumer-culture forces that exert their deranging influence on all of us.

The result is a state of “constant zombie copping”: Too much libidinal payoff, however fleeting, has been packed into the act of buying itself, and salient questions are rendered ancillary, if not ignored outright — not just, “Do I really need this?” but “Do I even really want to own this and, if so, could I relate to that acquisitive urge in a healthier, more intelligent, and more in-control way?”

During a recent open call for Personal Spyplane questions on IG we got a weighty query on the theme of compulsive copping:


This question neatly articulates the pathology of the compulsive copper: You see a piece of clothing that “checks all the boxes” of what you like, bells of longing go off in yr head, and you feel you must buy the thing to quiet the clang.

The first remedy for this compulsion is to introduce productive kinds of friction into the exchange — that is, try to add more boxes that need to be checked for the bells to clang / before you smash the coppington.

One imperfect yet productive way I’ve been personally trying to do this is to only buy things that stoke desire in person, establishing a higher bar of dopeness (and lower probability of regret) than is involved with e-commerce. This is also known as the C.I.R.L.O.C. (Cop I.R.L. Only Challenge) Mindset and it has many other benefits.

Another way is to develop better habits during moments of idleness, for instance: I should stop scrolling Grailed and Yahoo Japan Auctions when I’m bored.

And yet another way is to cross-reference any new appealing jawn against the many appealing ones I already own and love, to determine whether this garment “does something” that none of those garments do.

This last method grounds things in utility (e.g. “I already have black roomy lightweight pants that feel good in warm weather and go with everything, another pair would be redundant”). More interestingly, it can help to activate a powerful COUNTER-URGE, namely your desire to rock the fly s**t you already own, which will look better / integrate more swaggily into yr whole gestalt with wear. Next time you are tempted to cop, do a little inventory of your current jawn holdings, a.k.a. your B.I.G. B.U.C.S. library — I bet you’ll re-discover pieces you forgot you owned and are eager to put on.

It’s simple zero-sum math that owning more jawns = having fewer opportunities to flex on these hoes (in the enlightened gender-neutral sense) in each of them. In that light, you realize that buying a new garment is vexingly at cross purposes with enjoying a garment you already possess and love but haven’t worn enough. This may sound simple and obvious to many of you, but take it from me: To the Pathological Jawn Fiend, it’s a truth that takes effort to internalize.

This method is also especially potent because it’s not about deprivation. It’s about replacing one evanescent dopamine hit with more sustained pleasure, by transitioning from “acquisition mode” to “enjoyment mode”:

I should keep this in mind. My problem is I'm a big binger. I'll go a few months without copping anything, then discover all the stuff I've missed and go on a spree.

Luckily I've already got the "how does this help my wardrobe" mindset, although at times it leads to a bit too weirdly utilitarian mindset like "well I have a 10oz shirt for cool fall days, and a 4oz shirt for warm summer days, so that means I need a 7oz shirt for days that are in between those!", which is really just a post-hoc rationalization of copping, rather than really filling a need in my wardrobe.

I think the key idea here, of just putting more pain points between purchases, is the most important. Just don't let yourself buy something until you've contemplated it for a while, and you'll find your purchases way more thoughtful and useful. Doesn't mean you won't make mistakes sometimes (if you're not sometimes buying something you ultimately don't wear, you're probably not taking enough risks), but you'll make fewer and better mistakes, if that makes sense. And you'll enjoy what you do have!

 

[hendrix]

Guys I have a thread for that!