** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

[JFWR]

Pembroke after a trip to Havana 🤡

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This is as promised a follow up to the story I told in #28,185 and taking @Duke Santos ' advice in #28,142 I used Saphir's Crème 1925 '34 Tobacco Brown / Havana.

At first I was a bit disappointed when comparing it to the Coniston:

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But then I remembered that the 'Dark Brown Scotch Grain' of my Pembroke never looked the same as that of my Coniston and had a more reddish hue. Here is a picture when I had received them and before the treatment:

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I like the result. It doesn't look as gorgeous as the original, but it's really nice and probably the result would have been closer, hadn't I treated them as deeply as I did. I shouldn't have touched them and lived with the difference. Lesson learned.

@Camerashy : This can of Havana I got from Urban Buchmann (https://shoeshine-shop.com) as I have ordered from him in the meantime. The original delivery from a different seller, which also contained Saphir Light Hazelnut, is officially lost and while I'm typing this I have just received their confirmation, that they will refund me.

However, after this experience I don't think I will use Havana some day for my Dark Brown Coniston. I will see, how they change over time and probably will only care for them, but won't use creams with colors pigments. Or will look for a different one.
The same is valid for my Tan Coniston and Pembroke. I love their original colors so much! So, I'm pausing the Light Hazelnut for a while.

I would just use dark brown going forward and eventually the shoes will deepen in colour. That being said, I find the Pembroke's dark brown scotch grain is not as dark as some others from C&J, anyway, so this isn't that big of a concern.

 

[Mavidpark]

Hey guys, friend of mine wants to sell me these loafers. But he has very little idea what they are as he got them as a gift. Can someone ID them for me?

Based on what ive looked online, I think they are either a harvard or boston loafer? Are these cordovan leather? calfskin? or a different model entirely.

 

[sussi]

Hey guys, friend of mine wants to sell me these loafers. But he has very little idea what they are as he got them as a gift. Can someone ID them for me?

Based on what ive looked online, I think they are either a harvard or boston loafer? Are these cordovan leather? calfskin? or a different model entirely.

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if you take out the shoe trees you can see model name + style and size stamped on the lateral side inside the shoes. It looks like a Boston or Harvard. It is the same silhouette, but Harvard is unlined.

 

[bemk]

Skye

 

[Betelgeuse]

Hey guys, friend of mine wants to sell me these loafers. But he has very little idea what they are as he got them as a gift. Can someone ID them for me?

Based on what ive looked online, I think they are either a harvard or boston loafer? Are these cordovan leather? calfskin? or a different model entirely.

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if y

if you take out the shoe trees you can see model name + style and size stamped on the lateral side inside the shoes. It looks like a Boston or Harvard. It is the same silhouette, but Harvard is unlined.

This. I'm leaning toward the Boston because of the creases of the right shoe.

 

[lurker33]

This. I'm leaning toward the Boston because of the creases of the right shoe.

You can read it on the lining in the first picture.

 

[sussi]

You can read it on the lining in the first picture.

Correct! I did not notice it when I quickly looked at the photos the first time!

 

[flylikeneagle]

Pembroke

 

[Mavidpark]

You can read it on the lining in the first picture.

Thank you! Totally missed that. Since it’s a Boston, I’m assuming this is the calf skin variant. Appreciate it guys.

Any of you guys have sizing advice for the Boston/Harvard? Do they run true to size?

 

[kik595]

Quite enjoying my new Molton chukkas - see pics - but curious. First pair of C&J as I've been very used to Aldens. These are perfect in 10.5 on their 336 last - any sizing recs against that? Stick with 10.5UK, half size up/down in some (any specifically?) etc. Thanks!

 

[TommyB]

Thank you! Totally missed that. Since it’s a Boston, I’m assuming this is the calf skin variant. Appreciate it guys.

Any of you guys have sizing advice for the Boston/Harvard? Do they run true to size?

I only have a Harvard loafer in cordovan, so can only speak for that, but they run true to size for me. If I were to buy a pair of Boston loafers I would start TTS.

At some point (not sure if they still do) C&J recommended going down half a size in the Harvard because they’re unlined. Had I done that, they would have been too small.

 

[Mavidpark]

I only have a Harvard loafer in cordovan, so can only speak for that, but they run true to size for me. If I were to buy a pair of Boston loafers I would start TTS.

At some point (not sure if they still do) C&J recommended going down half a size in the Harvard because they’re unlined. Had I done that, they would have been too small.

Thank you! I've been on the hunt for a pair of proper ivy style loafers and the sizing has been tricky.

I first tried a US7.5E Alden LHS for my first pair of proper loafers and found it had some gapping/bowing on the right shoe, I felt going US7.5EE would help, but I would have to order custom. Unfortunately that size is basically non existent for factory second options. Being on a teachers salary, I wanted to explore cheaper options first before biting the bullet on a full priced pair.

Then I started looking on the secondary market and expanded my search outside of alden to c&j. I stumbled upon the Harvard model as I read that they are unlined as opposed to the aldens being partially unlined. I thought that could solve my problem as harvard models are standard E width if I am understanding their website correctly.

So based on my findings, would you say a UK7 or (US8) E width unlined harvard be the answer for my sizing problems? I am a US 8E.

 

[TommyB]

Thank you! I've been on the hunt for a pair of proper ivy style loafers and the sizing has been tricky.

I first tried a US7.5E Alden LHS for my first pair of proper loafers and found it had some gapping/bowing on the right shoe, I felt going US7.5EE would help, but I would have to order custom. Unfortunately that size is basically non existent for factory second options. Being on a teachers salary, I wanted to explore cheaper options first before biting the bullet on a full priced pair.

Then I started looking on the secondary market and expanded my search outside of alden to c&j. I stumbled upon the Harvard model as I read that they are unlined as opposed to the aldens being partially unlined. I thought that could solve my problem as harvard models are standard E width if I am understanding their website correctly.

So based on my findings, would you say a UK7 or (US8) E width unlined harvard be the answer for my sizing problems? I am a US 8E.

Loafers are tricky since there are no shoelaces to help correct an imperfect fit.

When it comes to widths, in the US the “normal” (or maybe one could say medium) width is D but in the UK it’s E. So, often a US D equals a UK E. So if you’re an E that borders on EE in the Alden LHS you might want to try a Harvard or Boston (314 last) in the G width. Or maybe the fact that they’re unlined will make them stretch a little bit more so that an E width will work for you.

My Brannock size is US9.5D, and in the Alden LHS (Van last) I wear US9D (I think most people size down 0.5 size for the Van last, maybe down 0.5 and up a width).

My unlined cordovan Harvards are UK8.5E. I would say that they actually fit a tiny bit tighter than the Aldens in US9D (the Aldens are also cordovan but lined).

Not sure how much this helped. As always with loafers it would be best if you could try a few different sizes before you buy.

Edit: Took two pictures of my loafers. As you can hopefully see they are fairly similar in width. Disregard the length of them, I didn’t line them up properly, they feel quite similar in length.

The Harvards look a little bit slimmer, which is partly due to the form of the stitching and the fact that less of the sole is sticking out on the sides, but as said above they actually also feel a tiny bit slimmer. Might not be visible but there’s a little bit more instep room on the Harvards (which I personally don’t need).

 

[JFWR]

I have generally found that English E width is wider than American D width - but not by a full width size, more like half.

Traditionally, they say that English length should be one up from your American length. Thus if you take a 9D in American measurement, you should get an 8E in English measurement.

I think this is a mistake.

I usually instead suggest a half size down. Instead of 9, you should get an 8.5 at the smallest.

Example: I take an 11.5 EEE in American sizes. Because of this, if I got my Pembroke at 10.5 E, they would have been too small. Now, I could have gotten them in 11 E, but I found these too snug - because once again, I have wide enough feet. So I went for 11.5 E, which fit me perfectly.

Conversely, as the Aldershot have more room as a boot, 11.0 was fine for me.

 

[Montecristo905]

Why ridgeway? Don’t understand the hate dainite gets on SF. Two of my most used boots (Tetbury and Skye 3) are on dainite and I find them very comfortable, no problems at all.

First dainite boot I had felt like it was a cement sole. Recently bought a boot I loved which was only available in dainite and it feels much better. Still, for those in harsh climates, I have heard that dainite is not too good on ice and snow.