Practical question about Blake stitching

[Monsieur de Givenchy]

Even at the risk of giving @dieworkwear a heart attack by starting yet another shoe thread – I would need your practical advice:

I had my beautiful Bruno Magli Maiocco shoes (a cap toe Oxford) resoled at a local cobbler in Manhattan. They are not particularly precious shoes, but they were so comfortable that I decided to spend the 200 dollars to have a new JR sole put on them and a Triumph toe tap.

They looked great when I got them back. So I thought the cobbler had done a good job. But when I started wearing them, I realized they were now very uneven on the insole. It's as if I can feel a seam underneath the leather insole, on the rim. Bumps.

Any idea what might have happened? And if that can be fixed? Or do I just have to throw these shoes out now?

I think they are Blake stitched shoes. At least that's how they feel. Very soft, thin sole, very soft leather.

Would this whole thing not have happened with a Goodyear welted shoe? Is that why people go for the Goodyear welt?

Would be grateful for yout advice.

 

[MattyS]

My understanding is that this can happen with a Goodyear welted shoe. The use of the welt necessitates a layer (usually cork) between the insole and the outsole. If that layer isn't put in carefully and evenly, it can have the effect you're describing here. In fact, I have a hard time understanding how it could happen in a Blake stitched shoe, since there is no additional layer there.

 

[Jan-Mikael]

At this rate it might be better to start a thread simply called "Monsieur de Givenchys Questions About Shoes"

 

[Monsieur de Givenchy]

My understanding is that this can happen with a Goodyear welted shoe. The use of the welt necessitates a layer (usually cork) between the insole and the outsole. If that layer isn't put in carefully and evenly, it can have the effect you're describing here. In fact, I have a hard time understanding how it could happen in a Blake stitched shoe, since there is no additional layer there.

Very helpful, thanks.