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A sampling of my denim, along with a cool book that arrived from Sweden today.
Rip those tags off the Tellys my man
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Post pics of your denim - denim fades and evolution
- Thread starter Mike C.
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Rip those tags off the Tellys my man
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AidanSSK
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Here are my Nudies. Mom came by the other day, and thought, to be nice, she would 'wash my smelly jeans.' My precious fades have been ruined, I have shed at least one thug tear over this. Original color on the inside of pockets for comparison.
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Before I wear them I definitely will.
Is one of those the biker double knee fit?
Here are my Nudies. Mom came by the other day, and thought, to be nice, she would 'wash my smelly jeans.' My precious fades have been ruined, I have shed at least one thug tear over this. Original color on the inside of pockets for comparison.
Did you put these in the dryer?
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No, I put those up on Ebay... They have gotten too big on me (I shrunk).
The active Tellasons right now are my black John Graham Mellors (not in the pic).
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@aidanssk those do not look bad. Do u know how she washed them?
FINANCIAL TIMES
January 30, 2015 4:36 pm
Jeans therapy
Carl WilkinsonAuthor alerts
Skinny, studded, sea-washed or selvedge? For the average male, buying jeans can be a baffling experience. Carl Wilkinson goes in search of drama-free denim
Kobal Collection
A denim-clad Robert Redford as Halsy Knox in ‘Little Fauss and Big Halsy’ (1970)
I
blame Hedi Slimane. At the helm of Dior Homme in the mid-2000s, he changed the male shape overnight. Out went the ideal of the strapping bloke and in came the whippet-thin metrosexual with his skinny jeans. Thanks for that.
Around the time of Slimane’s meddling in the masculine blueprint, I wore Levi 501s. They had a decent straight cut — not too wide, not too slim — that played to the lingering sense of what the male silhouette ought to be, established 50 years earlier by the likes of Paul Newman, Steve McQueen and Robert Redford at his rugged 1970s best.
More
IN STYLE
Paris menswear round-up
Vive la fantasy
Sundance street style
Sundance street style
I was working at a men’s magazine and the suit jacket and jeans look was taking hold. Teaming a well-worn pair of 501s with a sharp Mulberry suit jacket and hitting the Atlantic Bar was about as hip as it got. We laughed in the face of anywhere still refusing entry to people wearing denim. Hadn’t they heard?
Yet all was not well. Under Slimane’s influence, my beloved 501s went from looking manly to boot-cut faster than you could say “spray-on jeans”. Skinny was the new straight but my thighs weren’t having any of it.
Since then, I’ve been in a jeans rut. The denim market may now offer more washes, cuts and finishes than a dog parlour but I know I’m not the only mid-thirties man in search of a few pairs of jeans that work for the office, dinner/pub and the sofa; that go with trainers or brogues; and that don’t involve doing an undignified changing-room wriggle.
Paul Smith Standard-Fit dark-wash jeans, £115
The good news is that denim brands are now waking up to men’s desire for wholesome, wearable, manly jeans. Amy Leverton, a denim trend forecaster for WGSN and the author of Denim Dudes, has been observing the changes. “As far as fits are concerned, jeans have loosened up, in line with the purist denim movement,” she says. “The key to success seems to be a 1950s 501 fit [more of a regular, straight-leg shape] in raw denim. That’s the look everyone is going for right now.”
As it would happen, one of the biggest men’s denim stories for spring is the return and retool of the 501. The 501CT (“Customised and Tapered”) has retained the roomy, high-cut top block of the 501 but introduced a slight tapering to the lower leg — the most common alteration request made of Levi’s in-store tailors — and will be launched next month in eight washes, three exclusively available from online retailer Mr Porter.
Gap Standard Taper jeans in dark resin wash, £44.95
To find out which jeans are for you, however, going to an actual shop is key. At Levi’s flagship store on Regent Street the assistant told me my size at a glance and then explained how different jean types would wear. Some cuts should be practically asphyxiating at first; others should offer more give. I settled on 511s in selvedge (£100). They felt stiff, like a pair of avant-garde cardboard trousers, but have since become like a second skin.
At Gap, with the help of the store’s “denim addict” adviser, I found the Standard Taper (£44.95). The latest move away from skinny jeans, in a dark wash, it had a pleasingly high rise and gently tapered leg. Highly recommended.
On the catwalk, there’s a new appreciation for authentic denim. For spring, Tom Ford embraced a laid-back, rugged, masculine vibe and introduced a new line of jeans aimed squarely at the “real” man. As he announced when presenting the collection last year: “The important thing about jeans is the cut and the butt.” I hear you, Tom.
E Tautz No 2023 selvedge jeans in raw indigo, £159
Patrick Grant, designer at E Tautz, has also launched his first line of denim wear. E Tautz jeans come in two styles: the No 2023, which offers a simple, slim-cut tailored look and the No 2020, a very baggy, wide-legged cut based on the oversized fitting of the classic P-37 battle-dress trouser. Grant’s ethos is clear: “Keep the shape simple with absolutely no detailing, no pocket swishes, no crazy washes, no weird contrast stitching. Just keep it really, really straightforward.”
E Tautz jeans are available in just one wash: raw indigo. “We cut them on a 1950s model,” he says. “Jeans today are cut much lower in the rise and end up looking a bit shapeless. Our customer is a bit more grown-up and elegant so we’ve tried to cut them in a way that at least looks as good as you can do in a pair of denim trousers.”
Levi 511 jeans in Galloway Forest, £90
Made in a factory in Blackburn, northwest England, that has been producing British army uniforms for a century, the jeans are stitched with heavyweight Gütermann thread. The raw cotton (finished weight: 13oz) is woven using — and I quote — “original narrow-width Toyoda shuttle looms”.
With denim, as with trainers, then, jeans are the subject of a growing nerd-like obsession. “I think educated men want to know about everything they consume,” says Grant. “The same applies to denim as it does to meat, watches and cars.”
“It’s been fantastic to see,” says Amy Leverton. “The average guy cares more and more about where the denim is woven, what cotton is used, where the jean is made and how and who by. This used to be something that only a few geeks cared about but, just like organic food or fair-trade coffee, it’s becoming more widely adopted.”
Selvedge (the fabric of my new Levi 511s), for example, refers to the two ends of the vast roll of cotton used to make jeans, from which only a handful of pairs can be made, and is signified by a pair of white parallel lines on the cuff.
APC Petit New Standard jeans, £135
Washing, too, sorts the men from the boys. I was told not to wash my selvedge jeans for at least a year — ideally two. Those in the know pop their denim in the freezer when it starts to smell or give it a squirt of Febreze. Yes, really.
At APC, the go-to brand for timeless, dark, grown-up denim, I found an information label tucked in the back pocket offering different denim washing “recipes”. One involves cavorting in the ocean, rubbing them with dry sand, rinsing in fresh water and drying in the sun. Rituals aside, I liked APC’s Petit New Standard cut (£135) for its neat, slightly tapered look. Simon Miller and Jean Shop (available from Mr Porter) were also suitably “everyman” and, for a mid-blue, gently worn look, Paul Smith’s Standard-fit jeans (£115) were spot on.
“It’s a great time for men’s denim as we’re seeing a real return to fabric,” says Luke Mountain, buying manager at Selfridges, who identifies “lightweight denims in the 10oz range, and fabrics in authentic washes” as key looks for spring. “Jeans are becoming increasingly work-appropriate,” he concludes. “It depends on your environment — denim will never be an alternative to a suit — but jeans can be sharp, smart and tailored.” Amen to that.
Stockists in this article and this week’s other Style articles
January 30, 2015 4:36 pm
Jeans therapy
Carl WilkinsonAuthor alerts
Skinny, studded, sea-washed or selvedge? For the average male, buying jeans can be a baffling experience. Carl Wilkinson goes in search of drama-free denim
A denim-clad Robert Redford as Halsy Knox in ‘Little Fauss and Big Halsy’ (1970)
I
blame Hedi Slimane. At the helm of Dior Homme in the mid-2000s, he changed the male shape overnight. Out went the ideal of the strapping bloke and in came the whippet-thin metrosexual with his skinny jeans. Thanks for that.
Around the time of Slimane’s meddling in the masculine blueprint, I wore Levi 501s. They had a decent straight cut — not too wide, not too slim — that played to the lingering sense of what the male silhouette ought to be, established 50 years earlier by the likes of Paul Newman, Steve McQueen and Robert Redford at his rugged 1970s best.
More
IN STYLE
Paris menswear round-up
Vive la fantasy
Sundance street style
Sundance street style
I was working at a men’s magazine and the suit jacket and jeans look was taking hold. Teaming a well-worn pair of 501s with a sharp Mulberry suit jacket and hitting the Atlantic Bar was about as hip as it got. We laughed in the face of anywhere still refusing entry to people wearing denim. Hadn’t they heard?
Yet all was not well. Under Slimane’s influence, my beloved 501s went from looking manly to boot-cut faster than you could say “spray-on jeans”. Skinny was the new straight but my thighs weren’t having any of it.
Since then, I’ve been in a jeans rut. The denim market may now offer more washes, cuts and finishes than a dog parlour but I know I’m not the only mid-thirties man in search of a few pairs of jeans that work for the office, dinner/pub and the sofa; that go with trainers or brogues; and that don’t involve doing an undignified changing-room wriggle.
Paul Smith Standard-Fit dark-wash jeans, £115
The good news is that denim brands are now waking up to men’s desire for wholesome, wearable, manly jeans. Amy Leverton, a denim trend forecaster for WGSN and the author of Denim Dudes, has been observing the changes. “As far as fits are concerned, jeans have loosened up, in line with the purist denim movement,” she says. “The key to success seems to be a 1950s 501 fit [more of a regular, straight-leg shape] in raw denim. That’s the look everyone is going for right now.”
As it would happen, one of the biggest men’s denim stories for spring is the return and retool of the 501. The 501CT (“Customised and Tapered”) has retained the roomy, high-cut top block of the 501 but introduced a slight tapering to the lower leg — the most common alteration request made of Levi’s in-store tailors — and will be launched next month in eight washes, three exclusively available from online retailer Mr Porter.
Gap Standard Taper jeans in dark resin wash, £44.95
To find out which jeans are for you, however, going to an actual shop is key. At Levi’s flagship store on Regent Street the assistant told me my size at a glance and then explained how different jean types would wear. Some cuts should be practically asphyxiating at first; others should offer more give. I settled on 511s in selvedge (£100). They felt stiff, like a pair of avant-garde cardboard trousers, but have since become like a second skin.
At Gap, with the help of the store’s “denim addict” adviser, I found the Standard Taper (£44.95). The latest move away from skinny jeans, in a dark wash, it had a pleasingly high rise and gently tapered leg. Highly recommended.
On the catwalk, there’s a new appreciation for authentic denim. For spring, Tom Ford embraced a laid-back, rugged, masculine vibe and introduced a new line of jeans aimed squarely at the “real” man. As he announced when presenting the collection last year: “The important thing about jeans is the cut and the butt.” I hear you, Tom.
E Tautz No 2023 selvedge jeans in raw indigo, £159
Patrick Grant, designer at E Tautz, has also launched his first line of denim wear. E Tautz jeans come in two styles: the No 2023, which offers a simple, slim-cut tailored look and the No 2020, a very baggy, wide-legged cut based on the oversized fitting of the classic P-37 battle-dress trouser. Grant’s ethos is clear: “Keep the shape simple with absolutely no detailing, no pocket swishes, no crazy washes, no weird contrast stitching. Just keep it really, really straightforward.”
E Tautz jeans are available in just one wash: raw indigo. “We cut them on a 1950s model,” he says. “Jeans today are cut much lower in the rise and end up looking a bit shapeless. Our customer is a bit more grown-up and elegant so we’ve tried to cut them in a way that at least looks as good as you can do in a pair of denim trousers.”
Levi 511 jeans in Galloway Forest, £90
Made in a factory in Blackburn, northwest England, that has been producing British army uniforms for a century, the jeans are stitched with heavyweight Gütermann thread. The raw cotton (finished weight: 13oz) is woven using — and I quote — “original narrow-width Toyoda shuttle looms”.
With denim, as with trainers, then, jeans are the subject of a growing nerd-like obsession. “I think educated men want to know about everything they consume,” says Grant. “The same applies to denim as it does to meat, watches and cars.”
“It’s been fantastic to see,” says Amy Leverton. “The average guy cares more and more about where the denim is woven, what cotton is used, where the jean is made and how and who by. This used to be something that only a few geeks cared about but, just like organic food or fair-trade coffee, it’s becoming more widely adopted.”
Selvedge (the fabric of my new Levi 511s), for example, refers to the two ends of the vast roll of cotton used to make jeans, from which only a handful of pairs can be made, and is signified by a pair of white parallel lines on the cuff.
APC Petit New Standard jeans, £135
Washing, too, sorts the men from the boys. I was told not to wash my selvedge jeans for at least a year — ideally two. Those in the know pop their denim in the freezer when it starts to smell or give it a squirt of Febreze. Yes, really.
At APC, the go-to brand for timeless, dark, grown-up denim, I found an information label tucked in the back pocket offering different denim washing “recipes”. One involves cavorting in the ocean, rubbing them with dry sand, rinsing in fresh water and drying in the sun. Rituals aside, I liked APC’s Petit New Standard cut (£135) for its neat, slightly tapered look. Simon Miller and Jean Shop (available from Mr Porter) were also suitably “everyman” and, for a mid-blue, gently worn look, Paul Smith’s Standard-fit jeans (£115) were spot on.
“It’s a great time for men’s denim as we’re seeing a real return to fabric,” says Luke Mountain, buying manager at Selfridges, who identifies “lightweight denims in the 10oz range, and fabrics in authentic washes” as key looks for spring. “Jeans are becoming increasingly work-appropriate,” he concludes. “It depends on your environment — denim will never be an alternative to a suit — but jeans can be sharp, smart and tailored.” Amen to that.
Stockists in this article and this week’s other Style articles
IIIrd Icon
Distinguished Member
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WAYWT: Combs all around 
WxExY x Momo Type2
WxExY x Momo Type2
Last edited:
IIIrd Icon
Distinguished Member
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^@14mos= 5mos effective wear= 3 hot soaks__ no wash
GoldenBrown
Member
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She's now responsible for about 90% of the posts on rawrdenims forums. Forget double posting, there are threads that are literally only her responding to herself, no one else. Posts under the handle Silver.
Understatesman
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LOL, good god. Had a look around since I never heard of that place. She's up to the same thing, and still so weird...
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