Pitti Uomo 87 in pictures

[Tirailleur1]



Yes, exactly. Flood level inseams and going sock less has jumped the shark. C'mon, people look silly
I'm not going to be a part of the love-fest, not everyone is going to get a free pass. I think SartoDi is right.

We all have our opinions and this is the place to voice them, so I am voicing mine.

And you don't think 'timeless and classic' styles haven't as well? Especially in this age of www. where people from nowhere keep making their own rules?

You have every right to voice your opinion. And we have every right to discuss your opinion.

By the way I'm not sure of the lovefest you referring to in this thread as many in this thread have voiced the ridiculousness of Pitti. Noone is denying that at all. What I think is baffling is that year in year out people who hate pitti constantly comment on the ridiculousness when they can choose to you know... Tune out.

I can't Complain about the radio and top 40 when I can turn that **** off and listen to Boiler Room


also you want people to wear "timeless and classic" outfits to a fashion event?

lulz

 

[Tirailleur1]

I wonder if Caraceni or similar top serious tailoring houses got a stand there, i am asking because i do not know. ( I hope not because as i said, Pitti people are not their target clientele)

Jajaja, sadly you will maybe find only 2 only gents with tasteful outfits, better going to Wall Street in NYC for it or the Lord Chamber in London ( not the Common please)

So as much as we like to make fun of the clowns at Pitti it is interesting to note that many people do dress normal (according to Forum dress standards) at the show.

 

[gdl203]

I think I see about 20 or 30 outfits every day there that I think are really great and tasteful. Sure, that's a minority as most are either simply unremarkable (vast majority that are too boring for street photographers and bloggers and that no one therefore ever sees on the internet) or full-marsupial peacocks (who do it for publicity, not to advance the good taste agenda). I think that, as a general rule, if your Pitti outfit get blogged a lot, it can mean either (a) you're over-the-top and therefore attracts the eye and lens, (b) you're famous in the menswear world and bloggers want to shoot you whatever you happen to be wearing, (c) you're incredibly well dressed, or (d) you've been standing outside and walking around in circles for SO LONG that eventually some of the 50 bloggers looking for content ended up taking your picture.

Mostly (a) and (b) of course.

 

[gdl203]



I wonder if Caraceni or similar top serious tailoring houses got a stand there, i am asking because i do not know. ( I hope not because as i said, Pitti people are not their target clientele)

Bespoke tailors do not exhibit at Pitti. It is a trade shows for ready to wear brands. So you will find Kiton, Isaia, Sant'andrea, Sartoria Partrnopea and the likes - but not the bespoke tailors.

A lot of bespoke tailors come to Florence for Pitti though - a ton. Some are there to meet their overseas partners (trunk show hosts), some are there to conduct fittings, but they all take some time to walk the trade show. I haven't seen from those established master tailors the kind of contempt that you seem to think they would exhibit for the pret-a-porter side of the world.

 

[jungleroller]

Fantastic pics! One day...

 

[SartodiNapoli]

And you don't think 'timeless and classic' styles haven't as well? Especially in this age of www. where people from nowhere keep making their own rules?

You have every right to voice your opinion. And we have every right to discuss your opinion.

By the way I'm not sure of the lovefest you referring to in this thread as many in this thread have voiced the ridiculousness of Pitti. Noone is denying that at all. What I think is baffling is that year in year out people who hate pitti constantly comment on the ridiculousness when they can choose to you know... Tune out.

I can't Complain about the radio and top 40 when I can turn that **** off and listen to Boiler Room


also you want people to wear "timeless and classic" outfits to a fashion event?

lulz

So as much as we like to make fun of the clowns at Pitti it is interesting to note that many people do dress normal (according to Forum dress standards) at the show.

Bespoke tailors do not exhibit at Pitti. It is a trade shows for ready to wear brands. So you will find Kiton, Isaia, Sant'andrea, Sartoria Partrnopea and the likes - but not the bespoke tailors.

A lot of bespoke tailors come to Florence for Pitti though - a ton. Some are there to meet their overseas partners (trunk show hosts), some are there to conduct fittings, but they all take some time to walk the trade show. I haven't seen from those established master tailors the kind of contempt that you seem to think they would exhibit for the pret-a-porter side of the world.

also you want people to wear "timeless and classic" outfits to a fashion event?

The sentence timeless classic is another of the tons of lies of the blogger who depending how do you pay him, gives you higher or lower rate as i expossed he did for one of my masters and friends, actually the shirtmaster of Kiton. Who also his blog has a similar name. What can you expect from something that just starts with a fake name?

There is no timeless, as each decade has had his own style, wide shoulders on the mid 40s with big high trousers , narrow lapels on the 60s, elephant trousers on the 70s and wide lapels, wide on the 80s, baggy on the 90s. but there is dressing classic following rules and common good taste, as some of us try to do.

As i said, how do you think dress on that show the owners and big names, classic on a proper suit or that way?

This people is never on the bad taste blogs( actually 99% of those) or getting photographed for the GQ photographers as Guerre, who i won´t comment for simply basic education.


About this sentence;

I haven't seen from those established master tailors the kind of contempt that you seem to think they would exhibit for the pret-a-porter side of the world.

Where have you readed i do contempt about the rtw business but about people who disrespects the tailoring business and about this, just from all but one brand you mentioned, i got friends as master tailors, sewers, shirtmakers, tiemakers and so on and even i have practised myself in some.


All the master tailors of my circle do really contempt incluiding those, same about those bloggers who are destroying the industry( totally blacklisted by top level tailors as i wrote on the DB Thread or even on their WANTED ALIVE list

) with dishonest behaviour and clueless wrong articles. I expossed on this forum an article of the French main blogger, who said that a good shirt has to have unfused collar and wait for this, the bottom buttonhole not vertical but horizontal. This people who has any idea, confusses his personal " tastes" and confusses a lot of good people who want to learn to dress properly with all this articles of nonsense and technical double nonsense while they fulfill their pockets with fresh cash out of deliberate lying.

As shirtmaker i can explain an unfused collar is a matter of taste, never better or worse, would even be worse and we never recommend those for a politician or similar who needs a top polite image, as unless and even with a top housemaiden dedicated to ironing, the shirt won´t never look as polite as a fused one as you all know. You will see a lot of bubbles on most of Ronald Reagan Jermyn unfused collar shirts on the early 80s.

And if the blogger was meaning( i doubt he even realices of this, i am being Devil´s advocate) that an unfussed collar can be wear better, all the modern fused Italian or top shirts, got unfused already the internal side of the collar band as you all can see at home the bubbles it makes. Do not confuse shirt collar fusing with jacket canvas fussing, that is a low quality mass produced product and never tailored. ( Now i think the poor guy was confussing what fusing actually is, just because he heard fusing here or there, and people believing he and other bloggers are a must)

The other obnoxious fact of the last button horizontal, must be a hype that blogger readed on another similar place and thought was "cool" to include it. I can´t imagine the people who takes those blogs as the Bible, commisioning this fashionista thing on their next shirts just because that blogger said it.

Why not diagonal buttonholes then? Oh wait, i have invented the next Pitti hype, calling ASCAP to register my copyright!

See you on next Pitti, need to get my millions out of this.

Cheers!

 

[Coxsackie]

Seriously, I think it would be great to task a photoblogger with the specific job of seeking out exceptionally good (as opposed to tastelessly eye-catching) outfits at menswear fairs like Pitti. Tira and gdl have both confirmed that there were plenty of these in evidence at the fair, and EFV has managed to capture quite a few of them for this thread.

 

[Tirailleur1]

I dunno if I would be in the tasteful spectrum. Aranthor and sarto would probably beg to differ lol

 

[Tirailleur1]

And sarto thank u for noting that timeless a d classic is a sham. That was what I trying to get aranthor to see

 

[gdl203]



Seriously, I think it would be great to task a photoblogger with the specific job of seeking out exceptionally good (as opposed to tastelessly eye-catching) outfits at menswear fairs like Pitti. Tira and gdl have both confirmed that there were plenty of these in evidence at the fair, and EFV has managed to capture quite a few of them for this thread.

EFV does a nice job at catching them. The biggest problem is that it is incredibly easy to get some good shots of the peacocks outside - you don't even have to ask, they're all posing already, they even know where the good light is - but it is a lot harder to catch those who are simply well dressed and working the show. For one, they're mostly inside anf the light is nowhere as sexy; and when they're not inside, they're simply arriving or leaving. So you do get a few good shots of the entrance sometimes (like Yasuto Kamoshita, Mark & Alan, Marzotto, etc...) but it's not as easy as shooting those guys who do nothing but standing outside for attention.

 

[A Canuker]

Am I the only one who finds the idea of these peacocks hanging around hoping to be blogged rather comical and slightly sad?

 

[Tirailleur1]

Am I the only one who finds the idea of these peacocks hanging around hoping to be blogged rather comical and slightly sad?

nope.

kinda felt sorry for some of them

 

[Journeyman]

Am I the only one who finds the idea of these peacocks hanging around hoping to be blogged rather comical and slightly sad?

No, no you're not the only one.

It is both comical and sad.

 

[A Canuker]

Are they paid for this or is it an attention issue? I only have a slight grasp on Pitti from what I have read in this thread so forgive my ignorance.

 

[gdl203]

It is very cost-effective marketing and they know it. It allows some of these guys to achieve a notoriety that they could never dream of achieving based on their talent (or lack thereof) alone. With notoriety comes more business and opportunities, and money.

I mean, think about the life of Lino before and after the #menswear / Sartorialist coverage. Would he be able to sell hundreds of the most insultingly stupid overpriced neckties with an inane number 7 of them? Same with Nick Wooster? He went from no-name mid-level executive to some sort of menswear icon getting paid to "design" "collections" with his face embroidered in them. There's countless of those stories.