PINCH TEST

[himoncler]

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[blahman]

Most suits, whether fused, have a chest piece. Half canvassed suits are like a hybrid of canvassed and fused: fusing on jacket but doesn't reach the lapels which are pad stitched; and canvassing on jacket that tend not go far below the first button.

 

[Maccimus]

It is very very difficult to tell if the jacket has some thin fusibles.

 

[Twotone]

Moderators -- can you get rid of this spammer?

Thanks!

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[barrelntrigger]

I agree. When I pinch tested my vintage sports coat, I actually was able to peel off the outer fabric from the front and back of the canvas which created that fabric separation sound. It was pretty addicting to listen. I actually started doing that on all of my sports coat just to hear that sound. lol

To correctly perform the pinch test, you have to be able to remove the outer fabric from the canvas and be able to rub the separated fabric against itself. It should feel like the fabric in the sleeves (minus the lining) when rubbed together. If there is something in between the fabric you pinched and you cannot easily separate the interloper, then that is fusing. If on the other hand, you can rub the fabric against itself, there is no fusing.
Half canvas is supposed to be glued on the bottom half and stitched on the top half. Don't have any pieces in front of me, but IIRC, the same rules apply and you can feel the fusing down at the bottom.

 

[Colin Maillard]

This so-called "pinch test" is a crap urban tale which has no relevance whatsoever. As most of all "homemade" checks one may make basing on forums advices and bloggers' tutorials. All this chatting about unrelevant details which tell nothing about the real quality of a suit is just a goldmine for crap brands - that can easily implement these details to make customers happy. Also it's fun how everyone takes for granted the difference of quality among fused, canvassed, half-canvassed suits - just because "someone" on the net reported they're better.

If you want to know the quality of your suits just be humble, shut your laptop off and take them to a real, reputed, possibly old tailor, someone who actually works with garments and knows about cloths and tailoring, and ask his opinion. Or become a tailor yourself (this means... studying cloths and getting familiar with stitching procedures, construction proportions, measuring techniques etc.).