Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Griffindork]



Look at the picture on the hanger again. See how the center seam lays well to the right of the center of the hanger? That means that I didn't hang the jacket dead center. In fact, it's well off center. Thus the collar doesn't appear symmetrical in that sense. But taking a ruler to the collar, the precision is perfect. Can't find any deviation between the two sides of the collar.

I like the jacket but there is definitely something off about about the symmetry of the collar. The pattern shouldn't be assymetrcial. The check should be equidistant on the right and left sides.

 

[brax]



I like the jacket but there is definitely something off about about the symmetry of the collar. The pattern shouldn't be assymetrcial. The check should be equidistant on the right and left sides.

I think that I now see what you're saying. Since jackets are 3D items, let me wear it in the next few days and see I'll check how the collar looks while wearing.

 

[Patrick R]

Quote:
I saw it a couple of weeks ago in Chris's workroom. It caught my eye and stood out over the 30 or so other jackets hanging in various stages of completion. Definitely blue and pretty awesome. So much so that I sent brax a message to tell him!

In related Despos news, and after much vacillating, I have ultimately decided to go for another sport coat (as opposed to overcoat or tuxedo). Pretty settled on the W. Bill Phoenix 14821, 3/2, and not sure about pocket configuration. I am debating between jetted side pockets and welted breast or triple patch or patch pockets and welted breast. Leaning towards jetted pockets for some reason. Anyone thoughts?

When Chris was cutting mine he called to ask me that question. Well, to be fair, it was more that he called me to tell me what my answer should be. He said that based on the light weight of the cloth, we shouldn't do patch pockets.

 

[venividivicibj]

Newc, is 14821 a worsted barleycorn? I cant really decipher the weave.

 

[Patrick R]



Newc, is 14821 a worsted barleycorn? I cant really decipher the weave.

My WB14827 has a stronger visual barleycorn effect, but it's the same. They are relatively lightweight fabrics. The WB14821 is softer and is mottled with a navy tone on tone. It really looks nice made up. Chris described it as casually elegant and I agree.

 

[Dannefalk]

Thank you for sharing, Dannefalk. Looks promising so far.

Definitely interested in knowing more about AW Bauer and your experience with them.

I will keep you posted!

 

[Coxsackie]

Finally got around to funding my length of LL Agnelli tweed.

I've again gone with Osaka's Coccinella for this project. I was in any case passing through on my way to a quick skiing trip at Nozawa Onsen.

Based on previous measurements, Takashi-san had already made up a trial jacket in tweed of similar weight, for my first visit on the way through to the resort:







I left my precious roll of Lovat tweed with them and proceeded on to Nozawa Onsen. Exactly one week later, they already had my suit ready for a basted fitting - wow!











You may observe from the frontal photo that there are no front darts. Instead the darts are at the side, under the arms. This is apparently common Florentine practice (a style Coccinella follows), and in my opinion particularly suitable for a windowpane cloth.

The slight floppiness around the jacket's waist is an artefact of the way the panels have been put together for the fitting; Takashi-san assured me they will not be present in the final product.

My right arm is longer than my left (partly due to a dropped shoulder); the apparent asymmetry in sleeve lengths will be adjusted. There will also be some minor tweaks to the trousers.

Looking at the photos, I'm wondering whether the quarters could be ever-so-slightly more open. Thoughts?

There will be no opportunity for a forward fitting, but this is already looking and feeling pretty good. Delivery in about two months, at which time I will post the results.

 

[calypso]

wow, looks good!

 

[poorsod]

Coxsackie, I think the coat looks best when buttoned with top button only like in your top picture. The silhouette and flare of the skirt looks best that way. The picture where you buttoned both buttons looks too constrained. I suspect the coat is meant to close only with the top button.

 

[Coxsackie]

Thanks for your feedback. It will be a 3-roll-2 closure, and those are cloth cutouts, not real buttons. The jacket was pinned at the level of the middle button only.

Hence my observation about the quarters being slightly closed. This is simply the way the jacket is draping on my frame right now.

 

[ericgereghty]

Good stuff @Coxsackie that's a lovely cloth.

 

[Andy57]

Finally got around to funding my length of LL Agnelli tweed.

Looking at the photos, I'm wondering whether the quarters could be ever-so-slightly more open. Thoughts?

My thoughts would be summarized as "no". On the other hand, it would depend on how well the two sides of the coat parallel each other now. If you do decide to open them up, my input would be to do so very slightly. You are gonna love that suit. The Agnelli tweed is a superb cloth.

 

[sugarbutch]

On the basis of that picture, I would open it up a bit.

 

[gdl203]

Looks like a matter of balance rather than shape of the quarters. The two sides "scissor" a bit on that front-facing picture. When that happens the area above the buttoning point opens and the area below closes.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Coxsackie, hope this adventure turns out great. Am glad the tailor gave you a quick fitting