Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]



Anyone using Dalcuore in NYC next month? I'm considering it, but wondered if anyone knew their schedule, how many fittings they do for trunk shows, etc.

Does this mean more Italian tailors will be following his lead?

Three bad iPhone shots under artificial light. Jacket came in mail this morning so it has not been broken in at all. Fabric is LLTW20. Tailor is Chris Despos. Apologies to Chris for poor picture quality.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[Andy57]

I think the last photo is closest to the actually color of the cloth: more blue than grey. It looks pretty awesome! I don't think I've encountered this particular cloth in real life--is it as soft as other LL Shetlands?

 

[brax]



Does this mean more Italian tailors will be following his lead?

Velvet tweed? Velvet tweed! I think you're onto something!

 

[brax]



I think the last photo is closest to the actually color of the cloth: more blue than grey. It looks pretty awesome! I don't think I've encountered this particular cloth in real life--is it as soft as other LL Shetlands?

Crappy picture quality, Andy. It is a molten Dodger blue with a rust windowpane. No grey to speak of. Yeah, it's a fairly typical LL shetland quality. Great fall/winter weight at 16oz.

 

[Newcomer]

That turned out great, Brax. I have absolutely no clue what the color is though

In any event, the pattern matching is unbelievable. Especially where the front is darted. All that said, not sure about the ole' pocket parrot. With triple patch, I would let that lovely jacket speak for itself.

In related Despos news, and after much vacillating, I have ultimately decided to go for another sport coat (as opposed to overcoat or tuxedo). Pretty settled on the W. Bill Phoenix 14821, 3/2, and not sure about pocket configuration. I am debating between jetted side pockets and welted breast or triple patch or patch pockets and welted breast. Leaning towards jetted pockets for some reason. Anyone thoughts?

 

[sugarbutch]

Patch hip pockets with welted breast

 

[brax]



That turned out great, Brax. I have absolutely no clue what the color is though

In any event, the pattern matching is unbelievable. Especially where the front is darted. All that said, not sure about the ole' pocket parrot. With triple patch, I would let that lovely jacket speak for itself.

In related Despos news, and after much vacillating, I have ultimately decided to go for another sport coat (as opposed to overcoat or tuxedo). Pretty settled on the W. Bill Phoenix 14821, 3/2, and not sure about pocket configuration. I am debating between jetted side pockets and welted breast or triple patch or patch pockets and welted breast. Leaning towards jetted pockets for some reason. Anyone thoughts?

Do you know how much work it took to catch and then stuff than damn parrot in my pocket?!

Just took a look at the 14821. It is a lovely jacketing. Whatever you decide will look great. But because it has no pattern, is an odd jacket rather than a suit jacket, and is tweedy, I would lean towards three patch pockets. The only characteristic that for me militates against the three patch pockets is its relatively light weight at 9/10 oz. Three patch pockets gets my vote.

 

[EliodA]



That turned out great, Brax. I have absolutely no clue what the color is though

In any event, the pattern matching is unbelievable. Especially where the front is darted. All that said, not sure about the ole' pocket parrot. With triple patch, I would let that lovely jacket speak for itself.

What's so great about the pattern matching? Look at the asymmetry in the collar.

 

[brax]



What's so great about the pattern matching? Look at the asymmetry in the collar.

It's a one piece collar. If a pattern matches (symmetrical) in the collar, it is pure chance that the pattern met where they did. Put another way, if it matched on my jacket it could not match on someone with a smaller or larger neck opening. The only place that the pattern should match on the collar is in the center back and, rest assured, it most certainly does.
It's similar to trying to pattern match on the shoulder seam. It's not going to happen.

 

[ericjens7]



What's so great about the pattern matching? Look at the asymmetry in the collar.

To get the pattern to match in the manner you are hoping for is near impossible and would need worlds to collide in perfect coincidence.... or what Brax said

 

[EliodA]



It's a one piece collar. If a pattern matches (symmetrical) in the collar, it is pure chance that the pattern met where they did. Put another way, if it matched on my jacket it could not match on someone with a smaller or larger neck opening. The only place that the pattern should match on the collar is in the center back and, rest assured, it most certainly does.
It's similar to trying to pattern match on the shoulder seam. It's not going to happen.

To get the pattern to match in the manner you are hoping for is near impossible and would need worlds to collide in perfect coincidence.... or what Brax said

I understand you can't expect the pattern to match. I was talking about the lack of symmetry.

 

[Dannefalk]

A pic from my first fitting with Frederik of A.W Bauer. A pair of trousers made up in a vintage drapers fabric. Sorry for the crappy iPhone picture!

 

[sprout2]

Good job!

 

[potter AB]



A pic from my first fitting with Frederik of A.W Bauer. A pair of trousers made up in a vintage drapers fabric. Sorry for the crappy iPhone picture!

Thank you for sharing, Dannefalk. Looks promising so far. Definitely interested in knowing more about AW Bauer and your experience with them.

 

[brax]



I understand you can't expect the pattern to match. I was talking about the lack of symmetry.

Look at the picture on the hanger again. See how the center seam lays well to the right of the center of the hanger? That means that I didn't hang the jacket dead center. In fact, it's well off center. Thus the collar doesn't appear symmetrical in that sense. But taking a ruler to the collar, the precision is perfect. Can't find any deviation between the two sides of the collar.