Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[mktitsworth]

How do you find its crease-resisting properties? It looks like a regular linen suit (not a bad thing) - although not pressed fully yet. I'm quite interested in how it will perform in tropical environments

This is just the first fitting, but I found that it feels crisp and noticed that it seemed to resist wrinkling. Mostly at this point I was just curious how it would feel and it feels very similar to pure linen so far.

 

[kashmir]

It's actually wool-linen blend correct?

 

[tdang]

Ready for the second fitting. Vintage cashmere.

This time the MBT has consented to my disclosing his identity, which I will do when I see him in a few weeks for fittings. Hint: you can find him at Igarashi Trousers in Akasaka!

 

[mktitsworth]

It's actually wool-linen blend correct?

That it is.

 

[NJZC]

That it is.

Having viewed the bunches in person, some of the paler colours look a bit like canvas to me. I thought the blues looked better. Given the cloth weight, they should drape nicely. Didn’t pull the trigger though as I have enough blue atm.

 

[WhereNext]

Some completed projects: midnight blue 100% Escorial 2-piece suit (9 ounces for summer), brown (with a hint of orange?) 100% Escorial sportcoat (about 11 ounces), and pink herringbone 100% cashmere sportcoat (about 11 ounces).

In progress: first fitting today of this 100% Escorial PoW suit for the summer (9 ounces and will have it quarter lined). We’d toyed with the idea of going with a more “British” shoulder, but I didn’t like it so we’ve pulled the padding out. It’s nice to have the option, even though I find myself liking a much softer silhouette more often than not recently. There are a couple of upcoming suits that I suspect I’ll want in a more structured vibe.

 

[DorianGreen]

Some completed projects: midnight blue 100% Escorial 2-piece suit (9 ounces for summer), brown (with a hint of orange?) 100% Escorial sportcoat (about 11 ounces), and pink herringbone 100% cashmere sportcoat (about 11 ounces).
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In progress: first fitting today of this 100% Escorial PoW suit for the summer (9 ounces and will have it quarter lined). We’d toyed with the idea of going with a more “British” shoulder, but I didn’t like it so we’ve pulled the padding out. It’s nice to have the option, even though I find myself liking a much softer silhouette more often than not recently. There are a couple of upcoming suits that I suspect I’ll want in a more structured vibe.
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I especially like the brown sport coat. The linings are not my cup of tea, but I respect your preference.

By the way, I wonder why navy seems so difficult to photograph, or, differently said, why it often looks grey.

 

[WhereNext]

I especially like the brown sport coat. The linings are not my cup of tea, but I respect your preference.

By the way, I wonder why navy seems so difficult to photograph, or, differently said, why it often looks grey.

Yeah, the brown was especially nice when I was looking at swatches. A fairly pronounced twill and a nice melange of colors that are sort of typically “tweedy” but in a much softer handle (I like the look of tweed, but not the feel).

 

[mktitsworth]

I've really been taken by Escorial. I have a double breast 11oz that I'm having made up and I find that it moves really well and is... springy. I also like the sustainability and traceability aspects of it.

 

[epsilon22]

I especially like the brown sport coat. The linings are not my cup of tea, but I respect your preference.

By the way, I wonder why navy seems so difficult to photograph, or, differently said, why it often looks grey.

Probably because most homes/stores use slightly warm lighting. I find navy to look better in photos when the lighting is cool daylight (6000K+ light bulbs), like the ones you'd see in labs or hospitals.

 

[WhereNext]

I've really been taken by Escorial. I have a double breast 11oz that I'm having made up and I find that it moves really well and is... springy. I also like the sustainability and traceability aspects of it.

It’s been a nice surprise for me. The 9 ounce version from Standeven (Toledo?) will make up a good portion of future Summer suits for me (including the two above). I also am having their 11.5 ounce barathea made into a tux. “Springy” is a good description, which goes along with a nice soft handle and a slight sheen that I like (at least in the darker colors).

 

[mktitsworth]

It’s been a nice surprise for me. The 9 ounce version from Standeven (Toledo?) will make up a good portion of future Summer suits for me (including the two above). I also am having their 11.5 ounce barathea made into a tux. “Springy” is a good description, which goes along with a nice soft handle and a slight sheen that I like (at least in the darker colors).

I found a merchant that has an interesting supply of Escorial prior to the 2016 Standeven contract. None of the selvedge on mine says 'Standeven' but it all says '100% Escorial' and the lot. I find the mystery of the weaver (still probably Standeven) exciting.

 

[clee1982]

I only have winter Escorial never knew they make good summer weight stuff too

 

[WhereNext]

I only have winter Escorial never knew they make good summer weight stuff too

“Winter Escorial” as in coating weight? If so, how is it? I’m probably doing baby camel hair from Dunes for my next (and almost certainly last) overcoat, but I’m always willing to open my horizons….
And I tend to think of 9 ounces being summer weight, in general. This cloth isn’t super open weave, so we’ll see how it is in the dead of summer (probably not a game changer, but hopefully suitable). They do have a few that are 8 or 8.5 ounces but I’m pretty sure those were all in black or midnight blue for dinner jackets/tuxes.

 

[clothingfun]

I especially like the brown sport coat. The linings are not my cup of tea, but I respect your preference.

By the way, I wonder why navy seems so difficult to photograph, or, differently said, why it often looks grey.

Your continuous “contributions” here mean you obviously have vast experience with bespoke tailors.

Please enlighten us by sharing your garments. Like myself, you certainly have done business with the fine tailors of Savile Row.

If not, that’s completely understandable. Choosing a tailoring house depends on personal preferences.

Therefore, like the other fine gentleman who are regular members in this thread and share their excellent garments and experiences, you decided to instead do business with the finest tailors of Italy, France, Japan, Poland, and too many others to list at this time.

You have certainly done business with many of these fine tailors multiple times.

We all look forward to your expertise so we can learn.