Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[me.spoke]

What did your tailor say about the storm system cloth?

He said he is not accustomed to working with a cloth fused to a membrane but he could give it a shot. He mentioned it will be harder to drape and that it won’t be possible to shape it with an iron so the style would have to be as simplistic as possible. I mentioned a trench coat or a car coat and he reluctantly said it could be done. But we had this conversation a few months back, I have to ask him again.

Don't know how that cloth feels and drape, but I have a raincoat in this wool fabric that's supple and drapes well.

View attachment 2313635 View attachment 2313637

This looks nice, do you have any pictures from afar or of you wearing the coat?

I was looking for some RTW clothes in cashmere Storm System cloth and they seem to be used mostly for SB overcoats like this one (I think this is my fabric):

And here’s one in navy:

 

[DorianGreen]

He said he is not accustomed to working with a cloth fused to a membrane but he could give it a shot. He mentioned it will be harder to drape and that it won’t be possible to shape it with an iron so the style would have to be as simplistic as possible. I mentioned a trench coat or a car coat and he reluctantly said it could be done. But we had this conversation a few months back, I have to ask him again.

This looks nice, do you have any pictures from afar or of you wearing the coat?

I was looking for some RTW clothes in cashmere Storm System cloth and they seem to be used mostly for SB overcoats like this one (I think this is my fabric):
View attachment 2313661 View attachment 2313663

And here’s one in navy:
View attachment 2313667

If it's actually that, your cloth seems pretty stiff (little draping), mine is softer, I don't think it contains any membrane.

It should be this one, although a very different style.

https://de.loropiana.com/en/man/guardaroba/tommaso-trench-coat-FAO3157_512Q.html

 

[Despos]

He said he is not accustomed to working with a cloth fused to a membrane but he could give it a shot. He mentioned it will be harder to drape and that it won’t be possible to shape it with an iron so the style would have to be as simplistic as possible. I mentioned a trench coat or a car coat and he reluctantly said it could be done. But we had this conversation a few months back, I have to ask him again.

His opinion is what I learned making a storm system coat. This cloth is best used for something less structured. A shirt jacket made in a safari jacket style.

 

[kashmir]

His opinion is what I learned making a storm system coat. This cloth is best used for something less structured. A shirt jacket made in a safari jacket style.

I want to know how your take on safari or shirt jacket looks like Chris, any examples or references of your preferred design? They are surprisingly hard to get right.

 

[Luna189]

3 roll 2 or any variation of this or 2 or 1 button fronts; lapel rolls above the button you button. The video is a poor example and the lapel is rolled to ”tight” to the buttoning point. Collar is too short and pressing won’t correct this.
Term for lapel roll just above the buttoning point is “bloom”
Video was to demonstrate how to restore the bloom of the lapel when it goes flat and not to change the breakline.

I'm just trying to understand what is the difference needed for a long lapel (lapel rolls just a bit above the button we button) and a short one (lapel rolls far more above the buttoning button, even closer to the top button in 3r2 jacket, the type of lapel that we usually see in Qemal's jacket). Is it just the ironing or the way lapels are cut has to be different as well, Despos?

 

[Despos]

I want to know how your take on safari or shirt jacket looks like Chris, any examples or references of your preferred design? They are surprisingly hard to get right.

Did you have one made and didn’t like it?
What wasn’t right with it?

 

[Despos]

I'm just trying to understand what is the difference needed for a long lapel (lapel rolls just a bit above the button we button) and a short one (lapel rolls far more above the buttoning button, even closer to the top button in 3r2 jacket, the type of lapel that we usually see in Qemal's jacket). Is it just the ironing or the way lapels are cut has to be different as well, Despos?

The roll is controlled by how the collar is set and nothing else.
Put a jacket on and button it. Pull the tip of the collar downwards and you’ll see the roll come higher.
Pull the tip of the collar upwards and the lapel will roll downwards past the button/buttonhole.
Long collar-lapel rolls higher above the button
Short collar-lapel rolls lower towards or past the button.
linked a video about this a few pages back

 

[kashmir]

Did you have one made and didn’t like it?
What wasn’t right with it?

No I have not, just looking at various results on others. Some are too slim, too short, pockets too high...

 

[Despos]

No I have not, just looking at various results on others. Some are too slim, too short, pockets too high...

Didn’t know if you meant styling or fit. Guess it’s both.
see some nice ones on Instagram

 

[Luna189]

The roll is controlled by how the collar is set and nothing else.
Put a jacket on and button it. Pull the tip of the collar downwards and you’ll see the roll come higher.
Pull the tip of the collar upwards and the lapel will roll downwards past the button/buttonhole.
Long collar-lapel rolls higher above the button
Short collar-lapel rolls lower towards or past the button.
linked a video about this a few pages back

Thanks for the detailed explanation, Despos!
May I know if there is a term for the lapel that rolls higher above the button, the one that we usually see in Qemal's jacket in which there is quite a distance between the buttoning point and the point that the lapels meet when buttoning?

 

[The Chai]

100% navy kid mohair and 100% light grey silk ready for fitting!

 

[jonathanS]

100% navy kid mohair and 100% light grey silk ready for fitting! View attachment 2314065

I feel itching just reading that!

 

[The Chai]

I feel itching just reading that!

LOL IIR I had the silk fully lined but the navy quarter lined...

 

[kashmir]

Didn’t know if you meant styling or fit. Guess it’s both.
see some nice ones on Instagram

Yes, both, I guess.

 

[ppk]

Geek out on the entire video or go to 19:25 for an explanation how the collar determines the roll of the lapel according to the direction of the breakline.

This was really good. Thanks.