Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

@me.spoke
Discuss the cloth with your tailor and if the character of the cloth is better for raglan or set in sleeves.
Outerwear, especially raglan styles are better and more comfortable when the cloth is supple and drapey because it’s usually worn over another jacket or suit.
Stiff cloth that doesn’t give can feel more restrictive when layered.
Wearing it in rainy weather; would prefer a cloth that breathes and wicks moisture because of the humidity.

 

[Despos]

This came from my ski coach but probably applies to a wide variety of fields.
View attachment 2313169

@brax

 

[jonathanS]

Wearing it in rainy weather; would prefer a cloth that breathes and wicks moisture because of the humidity.

+1 to this. This is what I was trying to get at, but he’s saying it gets cold when it rains in his area.

Outerwear, especially raglan styles are better and more comfortable when the cloth is supple and drapey because it’s usually worn over another jacket or suit.
Stiff cloth that doesn’t give can feel more restrictive when layered.

With respect to this, I’m guessing tweeds are best for this, but cashmere (not storm system). What about camel hair?

I think the gentleman should just have it made as a normal shoulder polo coat.

 

[Despos]

+1 to this. This is what I was trying to get at, but he’s saying it gets cold when it rains in his area.




With respect to this, I’m guessing tweeds are best for this, but cashmere (not storm system). What about camel hair?

I think the gentleman should just have it made as a normal shoulder polo coat.

The backing is bonded to the cashmere and changes the nature of the cashmere cloth. Cloth becomes a veneer or laminated cloth. Plus the water repellant treatment has an effect on the hand. Not dissing the cloth but if you’re going to use, be aware before you commit.
It‘s been a while but I made a car coat for a Dallas client and for Texas climate. Think the face was a wool twill. Had to fit differently because cloth had no give.
Basing my opinions on using storm system on that coat. Maybe I’m making too much of this for no reason.
Favorite trench coat/rain coat I’ve seen was a wool gabardine. It’s etched in my memory.