Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[oldworldelegance]

There are many good points about wearing sports coats with jeans. I like wearing my jackets with denim, flannel, chinos, corduroy, etc. It depends, even if wearing tailored trousers looks generally neater.
Context and environment play a role. At a pub or a fairly casual place, wearing a tweed jacket with jeans and a polo (or denim shirt) might look better than flannels because the outfit complements the environment. A more formal outfit would stand out, making you seem out of place. You might even feel less comfortable which will make you look less stylish. The opposite is also true if being in a more formal environment.

 

[classicalthunde]

Switching gear here - Qemal recently posted two pictures (see below) which have pretty different lapel lines to my eye. The check one has a long roll all the way to (past?) the second button, and the grey jacket seems to have a much shorter lapel.

Is it that these are two different lapel shapes? And if so, which one is the quintessential 'Qemal' style. Or do you think that overtime the lapel roll just elongates naturally with wear?

 

[CLH03]

Switching gear here - Qemal recently posted two pictures (see below) which have pretty different lapel lines to my eye. The check one has a long roll all the way to (past?) the second button, and the grey jacket seems to have a much shorter lapel.

Is it that these are two different lapel shapes? And if so, which one is the quintessential 'Qemal' style. Or do you think that overtime the lapel roll just elongates naturally with wear?


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That long roll will happen with soft tailoring, hand padded lapels.

The grey suit has also probably been pressed about 10 minutes ago, and the check jacket is pretty worn in. The high roll can be pressed back.

You can see this roll on pretty much any real Neapolitan jacket that’s been worn for a while. (@JohnMRobie)

 

[classicalthunde]

.

 

[classicalthunde]

That long roll will happen with soft tailoring, hand padded lapels.

The grey suit has also probably been pressed about 10 minutes ago, and the check jacket is pretty worn in. The high roll can be pressed back.

You can see this roll on pretty much any real Neapolitan jacket that’s been worn for a while. (@JohnMRobie)

Thanks, I kind of prefer the longer one for sport coats...I've always dug it when the top button hole is visible on the lapel

 

[epsilon22]

Thanks, I kind of prefer the longer one for sport coats...I've always dug it when the top button hole is visible on the lapel

I think this is something that can be achieved through pressing. My tailor in Singapore showed pics of the same jacket pressed to have higher collar roll (more like two half circles meeting at the buttoning point), or lower (sharper lines from the gorge to the buttoning point before curving out).

 

[Texasmade]

Looks like Michael Browne's IG page got hacked.

 

[ppk]

I think this is something that can be achieved through pressing. My tailor in Singapore showed pics of the same jacket pressed to have higher collar roll (more like two half circles meeting at the buttoning point), or lower (sharper lines from the gorge to the buttoning point before curving out).

I have converted a 3 button sports coat to a 3 roll 2 by pressing it into the new shape.

 

[clee1982]

I have converted a 3 button sports coat to a 3 roll 2 by pressing it into the new shape.

you ironed yourself?

 

[Despos]

lapel roll is controlled 100% by how the collar is set regardless of soft tailoring or how the lapel is padded.
Easy to see by pulling the tip of the collar downwards and see the lapel roll higher above the button. Pull the tip of the collar upwards and the lapel roll gets longer.
When the lapel rolls past the button/buttonhole you have a defect in workmanship not an alternative style.

 

[ppk]

you ironed yourself?

Yup.

 

[_AMD]

lapel roll is controlled 100% by how the collar is set regardless of soft tailoring or how the lapel is padded.
Easy to see by pulling the tip of the collar downwards and see the lapel roll higher above the button. Pull the tip of the collar upwards and the lapel roll gets longer.
When the lapel rolls past the button/buttonhole you have a defect in workmanship not an alternative style.

Just for clarification, are you referring to the USED button/hole when you say, "When the lapel rolls past the button/buttonhole you have a defect in workmanship not an alternative style."? Or, are you saying that a 3r2 jacket should not show the inside of the top button hole?

 

[hitsuji]

lapel roll is controlled 100% by how the collar is set regardless of soft tailoring or how the lapel is padded.
Easy to see by pulling the tip of the collar downwards and see the lapel roll higher above the button. Pull the tip of the collar upwards and the lapel roll gets longer.
When the lapel rolls past the button/buttonhole you have a defect in workmanship not an alternative style.

I follow this guide when pressing my RTW jackets

Permanent Style

How to correct a flattened lapel

www.permanentstyle.com

Presumably the reason why you don’t iron the crease in on the bottom of the lapel is to let it roll the way the tailor has padded it either by machine or hand?