Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[DorianGreen]

Final fitting on the Lesser LGB. I'll pick up it and the Drapers houndstooth on Wednesday when the young'un goes in to try on his trousers. His jacket is in the queue. Also funded some cloth previously posted in the cloth thread.

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It's probably your preference, but the sleeves look definitely too long to me.

 

[hitsuji]

For those who have local tailors, what type of lead times do you guys experience from commission to delivery date?

1 month if I communicate I need it in a rush, most of the time 2 months for 3 fittings. I generally visit him straight away when a fitting is ready

 

[mktitsworth]

It's probably your preference, but the sleeves look definitely too long to me.

They are. They got taken up, which is why I picked it up yesterday instead of Monday. The sleeves are still a touch long for my liking, but that may honestly be my shoulders not cooperating. I have loose ligaments in both of my shoulders, so I hold them in place with the musculature. It prevents subluxations, but it is not as consistent as having your ligaments hold your shoulder where it's supposed to be.

 

[heldentenor]

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This looks great. What's the origin of the cloth if you don't mind sharing?

 

[mktitsworth]

This looks great. What's the origin of the cloth if you don't mind sharing?

It's this Wool/Alpaca/Silk mix from Holland and Sherry. My local tailor bought some lengths from the book and had them laying out where my 9 year old, who was in for a shirt fitting and to get measured for trousers, saw it and asked if having a jacket made in it could be his big Christmas present for the year. So it's being made up with generous seams and various other things so that it can be let out and grow with him as he does.

And as soon as all of his stuff is done I'm going to sit him down with a photographer and get a photo shoot done so that he can remember the cool stuff he had made.

 

[corpseposeur]

H&S is never cheap - I don’t recall it being at vicuña level, but was premium stuff alongside mink blends.

I have a few Oxxford overcoats that likely have H&S overcoating cloth. 2 cashmeres, a camelhair, and a very old vicuna from the 60s that I never wear. Those fabrics always seem to be a much higher level of softness and quality and plushness than others, and also a bit more delicate. I tend to wear them sparingly and rotate them so that the sleeves and collar don't wear out prematurely. It's like the Rolls Royce fabrics; high level of luxury with a high level of maintenance.

 

[Reiv]

Hi guys,


Hope you are well ! I rencently start a bespoke jacket project with a french bespoke tailor in the 15th area of Paris (Eric Tailleur). He learnt tailoring with Max Evzeline, one of the tailor of "groupe des 5", a famous group including the best parisian tailors in the end of 50's.

He does a very traditional french tailoring including french notch lapels and strong cigarette.


First fitting was on a canvas and second fitting on the final fabric.

I chose a an orange tweed with blue squares patterns from Bateman & Ogden with large french notch lapels and strong shoulders cigarette.

 

[jonathanS]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

 

[kashmir]

Hi guys,


Hope you are well ! I rencently start a bespoke jacket project with a french bespoke tailor in the 15th area of Paris (Eric Tailleur). He learnt tailoring with Max Evzeline, one of the tailor of "groupe des 5", a famous group including the best parisian tailors in the end of 50's.

He does a very traditional french tailoring including french notch lapels and strong cigarette.


First fitting was on a canvas and second fitting on the final fabric.

I chose a an orange tweed with blue squares patterns from Bateman & Ogden with large french notch lapels and strong shoulders cigarette.



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looking foward for the result!

 

[classicalthunde]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

not sure of the delicate aspect, but it does seem awfully light for an overcoat...

 

[jonathanS]

not sure of the delicate aspect, but it does seem awfully light for an overcoat...

Not really. I’d agree it’s on the lighter side but if you look through Italian overcoat books, it’s common.

 

[WhereNext]

Not sure who was involved in this, but there was a brief

not sure of the delicate aspect, but it does seem awfully light for an overcoat...

discussion on this after I’d mentioned I’d handled the recent Piacenza Cocoon cloth (80% baby cashmere and 20% vicuña) and noted that they had options at 410 grams labeled as “overcoat”. That’s a bit lighter than proposed here, but I could see it as a light topcoat in shoulder months (depending on where you lived, of course). Not sure if it’s a direct comparison to the 450 grams cloth mentioned above, but the Piacenza felt exceedingly soft, so I’d be skeptical about it being crazy durable. Having said that, it obviously depends on your use case: given it’s been discussed as being used for a double breasted raglan and 5 or 6 Italian descriptors, I’m going to go out on a limb and guess it’s not going to be the only overcoat in rotation. I lead a boring life of commuting to work and back and going out in a city environment: I can’t imagine even the most delicate coat wouldn’t last a good few years in that scenario as part of even a small rotation? I’ll probably get the Piacenza for a sportcoat or two (350 and 320 grams each) and anticipate getting years of wear out of them in my (likely smaller) rotation.

 

[jonathanS]

Not sure who was involved in this, but there was a brief

discussion on this after I’d mentioned I’d handled the recent Piacenza Cocoon cloth (80% baby cashmere and 20% vicuña) and noted that they had options at 410 grams labeled as “overcoat”. That’s a bit lighter than proposed here, but I could see it as a light topcoat in shoulder months (depending on where you lived, of course). Not sure if it’s a direct comparison to the 450 grams cloth mentioned above, but the Piacenza felt exceedingly soft, so I’d be skeptical about it being crazy durable. Having said that, it obviously depends on your use case: given it’s been discussed as being used for a double breasted raglan and 5 or 6 Italian descriptors, I’m going to go out on a limb and guess it’s not going to be the only overcoat in rotation. I lead a boring life of commuting to work and back and going out in a city environment: I can’t imagine even the most delicate coat wouldn’t last a good few years in that scenario as part of even a small rotation? I’ll probably get the Piacenza for a sportcoat or two (350 and 320 grams each) and anticipate getting years of wear out of them in my (likely smaller) rotation.

Correct, I’m not sure if it’s for better or worse, but it won’t be the only coat in the rotation.

Id consider a tweed but it’s with an old maestro who could retire at any time. I think it’d be good to have a more special coat made by him.

 

[WhereNext]

Correct, I’m not sure if it’s for better or worse, but it won’t be the only coat in the rotation.

Id consider a tweed but it’s with an old maestro who could retire at any time. I think it’d be good to have a more special coat made by him.

Well, if the cloth you’re thinking about feels anything like the Piacenza stuff, you’d definitely wind up with a “more special coat” than most! Again, not a direct comparison to what you’re considering, but I have a 440 gram cashmere balmaccan that has been just fine for me over a sweater/jumper and flannel trousers for getting around town (brief walking/standing and car) down to around 50 degrees F; can stretch it a bit further with a scarf and hat for short periods of time.

 

[Sreezy36]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

why not navy camel hair? that should be around 640g. Order a sample from Stanley Mills/Standeven to see if you like it. I like that style for a single breasted notch lapel raglan.