Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[clee1982]

on the topic of Shanghai, any recommendation of "menswear" type of thing to check out..., might got a day there

 

[jonathanS]

kept things pretty simple by just basically telling them to make me a suit in the house style (with the exception that I’m getting a 1 button jacket).

That’s not their house style. I’d usually wait until the second order before making those kind of modifications.

I have a mohair suit in the works with Qemal. I think one more fitting and it will be ready.

You mainly use kotaro too, right? There are smaller differences between the liverano cut and corcos. But they’re very similar:



not enough to justify working with someone new. Unfortunately, I don’t have unlimited money for that (and if I did, I’d probably just put it toward existing relationships).

Differences: (from the liverano side)
-liverano is cut fuller in the chest / body (although i doubt it’s noticeable without seeing them side by side),
-button stance higher,
-lapel less concaved,
-quarters more closed
-shoulder more sloped


Also. The cut difference could be because of the fabric: the liverano jacket is made with a heavier LL tweed.

 

[ddohnggo]

was hoping that B&T and Assisi would travel to more cities in China. I think Luca Museo is the only Korean tailor who holds trunk shows in HK with Coller. Anyway, looking forward to seeing your commission from B&T.

i don't think assisi has the capacity to do more cities in china, unfortunately. speaking of assisi, i'm commissioning a double breasted peak lapel coat in a moss green loro piana fabric. really looking forward to it and highly recommend their work.

 

[tim_horton]

You mainly use kotaro too, right?

Yes and he will remain my Italian tailor but I felt like experimenting a bit.

 

[WhereNext]

I would not have thought use that fabric for suit either, not a question of bold or not for me, just not use to gunclub as suit I suppose

Yep, I would assume it was designed with sportcoats in mind, but it was such an interesting brown, a muted overall look, and a quite “suity” fabric, so I figured I’d have some giggles. I expect to be denied admission at the finest clubs and eateries.

 

[Nero1626]

on the topic of Shanghai, any recommendation of "menswear" type of thing to check out..., might got a day there

well, I would list some shops but I haven't been to any of them in person but have heard of them from friends.

1: INDUSTRIAL No.741-1， JU LU ROAD， JING AN DIST， SHANGHAI， CHINA
2: MANDOMBUGS Room216-217, Building 1, High Street Loft, No508 JiaShan Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai, China (I used them for Coherence stuff)
3:SARTORIAL Shanghai (They carry a lot of brands, I feel like they are the mainland version of The Armoury)
4: ROILUXE High-end shoe store carrying G&G, Edward Green, George Cleverley, Stefano Bemer, Norman, etc.
5: The Refinery's interesting jackets
6: Rainier & Co. I think they do English-style bespoke suit
7: The Rare Bespoke
8:Medallion Shoes carry a lot of high-end shoes but they carry Acme shoes (Chinese Handwelted shoes. )

Yeah, I can only think on top of my head for this list. Hope you will check out some of the places.

 

[WhereNext]

That’s a great looking fabric and it’s hard to find that kind of a pattern at such a light weight but for me it’s a sports coat.

I have no doubt that you are not only in the majority, but also more likely “correct” than me.

 

[jonathanS]

I have no doubt that you are not only in the majority, but also more likely “correct” than me.

FA5 : Plain Weave Walnut Classic Prince of Wales Check

This cloth is a Walnut classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the...

foxflannel.com

This would be my suggestion for a suit fabric that’s similar.

 

[WhereNext]

That’s not their house style. I’d usually wait until the second order before making those kind of modifications.

I mean, I guess that’s true, but the net result of my request is “don’t sew 2 buttons and buttonholes that will never be used anyway”. Shoulders, proportions, lapels, fronts, gorge, all aspects of the trousers, etc. are all still done as they normally do them. Mayyyyybe we’ll lower the buttoning point by 1-2 cm as a result, but again, to me that’s not messing with a house style or a significant “modification”. But, as always, to each their own! I like a 1 button front so I ask; if a tailor ever said no, I’d respect that.

 

[WhereNext]

FA5 : Plain Weave Walnut Classic Prince of Wales Check

This cloth is a Walnut classic Prince of Wales check. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply up-twisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion. The merino wool, woven in plain weave, will breathe in the...

foxflannel.com

This would be my suggestion for a suit fabric that’s similar.

Yep, looked at that one, but didn’t like it as much. Definitely a more definitive “suiting” pattern, though. Also wanted to try Golden Fox, since I’m getting something else in Fox Air.

 

[tim_horton]

Yep, looked at that one, but didn’t like it as much. Definitely a more definitive “suiting” pattern, though. Also wanted to try Golden Fox, since I’m getting something else in Fox Air.

People have definitely used fabrics with larger, louder patterns so I think it will be fine.

 

[DorianGreen]

People have definitely used fabrics with larger, louder patterns so I think it will be fine.

I like to experiment myself, but not without a reason there are codified rules in classic menswear. As you stated, that cloth calls for a sport coat.

 

[WhereNext]

People have definitely used fabrics with larger, louder patterns so I think it will be fine.

Oh, I’m not worried about it appearing outlandish/loud, at all (outlandish isn’t the vibe I normally go for, with some exceptions). I have “interview” suits sorted; everything else I get because I like it (I’m not required by my work to be in a suit), so I like to “explore the space” a little bit sometimes.

 

[WhereNext]

I like to experiment myself, but not without a reason there are codified rules in classic menswear. As you stated, that cloth calls for a sport coat.

At the risk of admitting that I broke a “codified rule” of clothing (do I get a phone call? Will a lawyer be appointed for me? I spent all my money on this suit so I cannot afford my own!), I did provide “a reason”: I liked the cloth and wanted a suit in it.

 

[jonathanS]

At the risk of admitting that I broke a “codified rule” of clothing (do I get a phone call? Will a lawyer be appointed for me? I spent all my money on this suit so I cannot afford my own!), I did provide “a reason”: I liked the cloth and wanted a suit in it.

You got it all handled & in control.