Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Timmers]

All good man, you don't have to apologize. I've learned to roast myself and have fun with it. It helps with my neuroticisms.

Yeah I dig it so far. Will play around with buttoning and lapel roll.

This is with a SC on underneath.

Don't mind at all.

I basically handed my tailor my RTW Ralph Lauren camelhair polo coat (also 2-3 sizes too big) and told him to copy it in a tweed fabric.

Technically yes in that my tailor made it. I have no idea what it actually entails though. I only care about the end result.

I think he knows I don't care whatsoever about handwork though, and specifically told him to machine stitch the edges.

Since the pattern was based off an RTW coat I wore, I'm not sure what to call it really.

This is how it originally looked until I started messing around with the lapel and buttoning. I think it looks more boring, but I'm not set on it yet.

Thanks dude

Love it. Looks great with a jacket underneath to fill it out. Enjoy wearing it!

 

[jonathanS]

 

[thatboyo]

I think coat is fine. Big yes, but that was the intent. Agree that 6x2 looks better.

i also think most guys on SF can size up

 

[FlyingHorker]

I’d classify your jacket as MTO then?

I’m slowly digging the jacket, how does it flow unbuttoned? Although I wouldn’t try to move the lapel roll. The padding on the canvas done by the tailor makes it roll to the desired point

"Flow" reminded me to take a video of me walking with the coat to show it in motion. I misread the comment though, this is buttoned to the middle button, top and bottom undone.

Also not wearing anything underneath except a t-shirt and shorts. It does have the fun swish I like in long coats.

Looks like a completely different overcoat as a 6x2. Much better

Tbh, the coat is fine.

The slouchy/relaxed overcoat look isn’t for everyone but it definitely works for those that embrace the aesthetic.

Best to just own the look and not give a f@ck about what others think.

I'll continue messing around with buttoning it as a 6x2 and 6x1. The effects are very different.

I do appreciate SFs comments though and everyone's honesty. I do care what others think, to a point.

View attachment 2146459

@jonathanS

Everyone here looks cool and comfortable. Googled it, had no idea that's Agnelli in the middle.

 

[hitsuji]

"Flow" reminded me to take a video of me walking with the coat to show it in motion. I misread the comment though, this is buttoned to the middle button, top and bottom undone.

Also not wearing anything underneath except a t-shirt and shorts. It does have the fun swish I like in long coats.



I'll continue messing around with buttoning it as a 6x2 and 6x1. The effects are very different.

I do appreciate SFs comments though and everyone's honesty. I do care what others think, to a point.

View attachment 2146459

@jonathanS

Everyone here looks cool and comfortable. Googled it, had no idea that's Agnelli in the middle.

That flows very well. The cloth and craftsmanship is top notch.

Not sure how you wear your trousers but if you go for a wider leg, it will look superb

 

[te0o]

"Flow" reminded me to take a video of me walking with the coat to show it in motion. I misread the comment though, this is buttoned to the middle button, top and bottom undone.

Also not wearing anything underneath except a t-shirt and shorts. It does have the fun swish I like in long coats.



I'll continue messing around with buttoning it as a 6x2, and also only button the bottom button.

I do appreciate SFs comments though and everyone's honesty. I do care what others think, to a point.

I get the desire for an oversized look and I think this certainly achieves it but don't you wanna shorten the sleeves a bit? It won't impact the silhouette and it would make the coat appear more as though it belongs to you rather than something you picked up off the rack that is three sizes too big.

 

[FlyingHorker]

That flows very well. The cloth and craftsmanship is top notch.

Not sure how you wear your trousers but if you go for a wider leg, it will look superb

Thanks mate, appreciate it. If you need the cloth information, I can post it again or DM you.

My trousers are usually from 8.25"-9", including casual.

I get the desire for an oversized look and I think this certainly achieves it but don't you wanna shorten the sleeves a bit? It won't impact the silhouette and it would make the coat appear more as though it belongs to you rather than something you picked up off the rack that is three sizes too big.

I checked my other coats and you're right. This coat's sleeves are at least 1" too long.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Did a better job timing up my spring summer deliveries for spring summer this year.

 

[comrade]

Is that a longish jacket, which I prefer? Overall, very elegant.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Is that a longish jacket, which I prefer? Overall, very elegant.

The exact same as my other orders from my tailor but I suspect the mannequin has gotten shorter

 

[ericgereghty]

Permanent Style

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[jeremygo]

Permanent Style

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

www.permanentstyle.com

This made me laugh:
“You and I have talked about this, and you know I don’t like the shoulders of your other suits - they look so sad, they go down.”

 

[jonathanS]

Permanent Style

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

www.permanentstyle.com

The problem with nicoletta was she was a business manager / owner rather than a cutter / tailor / sarto.

That said, I quite like what was produced under her leadership. She did a great job carrying on her father’s legacy & her father was the real deal - a maestro. But she was not.

She didn’t have a demand issue - it sounds like she had a workers issue. It’s a shame her father did not teach her and pass down the cutting ability like ciardi, Panico, a. Caraceni, t&g caraceni, even Dalcoure & Pirozzi.

 

[epsilon22]

If she had issues getting workers wouldn't it be better to reduce capacity and raise prices so she could pay more? Especially if there's no lack of demand.

Can't really blame young people leaving to start their own shops -- some will have the skills and luck to succeed, others will not, how is that different from other professions? The girl who left her for Dolce & Gabbana probably did so for a better paying job, better quality of life, or both.

 

[krakatoa]

The problem with nicoletta was she was a business manager / owner rather than a cutter / tailor / sarto...It’s a shame her father did not teach her and pass down the cutting ability

I don't know anything about F. Caraceni apart from what I've read on PS and SF over the years (so can't agree or disagree with this statement), but not sure that I see how (had she been a cutter/tailor/sarto instead of spending her time managing the business side) the shop's tailoring capacity could have significantly increased. If she were a trained cutter I'm sure she would have greatly contributed to a small (and shrinking) technical team, and perhaps have inspired/motivated (by example and by working directly alongside them) more of her workers to stay, but the fundamental problem would have remained that she could not find enough trained and capable staff to meet demand.