Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bleu]

Spring/summer jacket in wool/linen/silk blend from Caccioppoli. Tailor Zaremba Bespoke, Warsaw

 

[The_Schmidt]

Second fitting for new trousers. Fabric is as mentioned in the first post a rather old-ish "Superflannel" from H&S, 97% Super 120s and 3% Cashmere.
Things improved but there are still some adjustments to be made. Will be excited for the next visit and pick-up of the trousers.

 

[CLH03]

I don't know if I should keep posting these crappy photos. Still don't feel like investing in an Apple 14. The wool/cashmere suit arrived from Naples. Now you can criticize!

PS: And yes, my sweater is thick and prevents the left sleeve from falling perfectly.

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Would you consider this a lower gorge than you usually get?

 

[ruvort]

Second fitting for new trousers. Fabric is as mentioned in the first post a rather old-ish "Superflannel" from H&S, 97% Super 120s and 3% Cashmere.
Things improved but there are still some adjustments to be made. Will be excited for the next visit and pick-up of the trousers.

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You should consider increasing the rise on these before having them finished. I'd say at least 1 - 2 inches.

 

[bdavro23]

You should consider increasing the rise on these before having them finished. I'd say at least 1 - 2 inches.

To what end?

 

[ruvort]

To what end?

To reach the proper rise for trousers and cover the protruding abdomen.

 

[The_Schmidt]

To reach the proper rise for trousers and cover the protruding abdomen.

I have considered this back and forth and discussed with several people including my tailor.
Will keep it as it is and as has been with my previous projects.

 

[bdavro23]

To reach the proper rise for trousers and cover the protruding abdomen.

That would only hold if the trousers were worn exclusively with suspenders, which is unlikely these days. If thats where he wears his trousers, increasing the rise will see the waistband fall during normal wear to where it is now. That will result in horizontal bunching in the front and a dropped crotch, which will be uncomfortable and sloppy looking. It will also increase the outseam, which will make the trousers pool at his ankles if he doesnt spend all day pulling them up to a place on his mid-section where they wont actually stay.

 

[The_Schmidt]

That would only hold if the trousers were worn exclusively with suspenders, which is unlikely these days. If thats where he wears his trousers, increasing the rise will see the waistband fall during normal wear to where it is now. That will result in horizontal bunching in the front and a dropped crotch, which will be uncomfortable and sloppy looking. It will also increase the outseam, which will make the trousers pool at his ankles if he doesnt spend all day pulling them up to a place on his mid-section where they wont actually stay.

...that is the more educated answer to this, thank you. These trousers will be made with side adjusters and never be worn with suspenders. It would just look and wear very odd and uncomfortable.

 

[ruvort]

That would only hold if the trousers were worn exclusively with suspenders, which is unlikely these days. If thats where he wears his trousers, increasing the rise will see the waistband fall during normal wear to where it is now. That will result in horizontal bunching in the front and a dropped crotch, which will be uncomfortable and sloppy looking. It will also increase the outseam, which will make the trousers pool at his ankles if he doesnt spend all day pulling them up to a place on his mid-section where they wont actually stay.

These are pleated trousers, so wearing with suspenders should be a give in.

I would also argue that once one has a stomach, it should never be protruding over the waistband.

To each their own though. Just trying to give constructive feedback to try and help someone look their best.

 

[bdavro23]

These are pleated trousers, so wearing with suspenders should be a give in.

I would also argue that once one has a stomach, it should never be protruding over the waistband.

To each their own though. Just trying to give constructive feedback to try and help someone look their best.

Theres no rule or best practice about wearing suspenders with anything pleated, so I'm not sure where this comes from. Pleated trousers have been worn for decades without suspenders, often in sporting pursuits which would preclude suspenders.

Putting the waistband of the trousers at a height to horizontally cover a protruding stomach would create a silhouette similar to that worn by Jackie Gleeson in 1947. Its a look, but one that would look definitively like a costume or cosplay.

@The_Schmidt trousers look pretty flattering to me and suit his build. They also look functional and modern, as part of a coherent workwear ensemble. Taking your suggestions I would argue would move that needle decidedly towards an anachronistic look that he likely (with good reason), would be looking to avoid.

 

[bernoulli]

I have considered this back and forth and discussed with several people including my tailor.
Will keep it as it is and as has been with my previous projects.

It looks fine, especially if you use suspenders. I wear high-rises for the most part but think medium and low-rises can look just as good. It seems like this project is coming along nicely. Please post the final result. Question, why not a full suit? (I cannot see the fabrics' details but it does not seem like a trouser-only fabric).

edit: agree with @bdavro23, who put it much more eloquently than I could have.

 

[lordsuperb]

That would only hold if the trousers were worn exclusively with suspenders, which is unlikely these days. If thats where he wears his trousers, increasing the rise will see the waistband fall during normal wear to where it is now. That will result in horizontal bunching in the front and a dropped crotch, which will be uncomfortable and sloppy looking. It will also increase the outseam, which will make the trousers pool at his ankles if he doesnt spend all day pulling them up to a place on his mid-section where they wont actually stay.

Where have you been?

 

[bdavro23]

Where have you been?

Minnesota, bro.

Moving is rough, but getting settled and I'll be back to posting **** regularly.

 

[The_Schmidt]

I thank @bdavro23 again for his explanation, which basically covers all I would have to say. I never heard of any (strict) rule that pleats call for suspenders and even if, I chose it the way you see above.

And indeed I believe that my tailor is doing a wonderful job at putting my difficult build into something that is pleasing both to the eye and to wear. She really is remarkable.

@bernoulli The fabric is a probably since long (?) discontinued H&S "Superflannel" in 97% Super 120s & 3% Cashmere which would probably be suitable for a suit. It should be in the 10-11oz range.

And thinking of it now, it would have been a very nice choice to turn it into a suit. However, I initially only ordered one pair of trousers but upped it last minute to two pairs - which probably now makes a suit impossible. Edit: I did so, because I am more in need of new odd winter trousers than in need of winter suits.

Spoiler: Fabric pics

Comparison with more current H&S Woolen Flannel: